Hello all,

Well I am diving into the 68 and figuring out what has been changed and what needs corrected. It is NOM based on the distributor (no mechanical tach drive but is a points distributor) and intake manifold (too tall, air cleaner won't clear factory hood, which explains why it was in a box of spare parts instead of installed). It does have a Q-jet on it. The 327 has had some work done to it based on compression and idle, definitely had a cam upgrade. Engine doesn't want to even run at 4 degrees timing. Shifted timing to about 10 degrees and it smoothed out and ran.

So first question, and ideas on how to determine proper timing for an engine when you have no idea what cam swap was done? I went with the old 'sounds and runs right' timing. Drove it, no stutters, no knock, engine seemed quite happy. Revving little critter.

Next question: Anyone want a set of black SB headers with side pipes? New exhaust system, headers, intake manifold, and all gaskets/hardware are already on the way.

Next, brakes - Lip seals on front calipers are leaking. Best I have found is a complete O-ring kit for $50 per caliper at Corvette Central and a less complete kit from Eklers for $40/caliper. Is it worth it to switch to the O-ring pistons? The rebuild kit for the lip seal style is $15/caliper.

I suspect a common rant from me on this car will be the half done jobs by the previous owners. If there are 2 pieces of mounting hardware for a part, one was torqued down and the second is loose. Or at least that has been the theme so far. Start acting up? Add shims. still acting up? Add more. I removed all the shims and the starter is now working fine.

Any of you guys with experience going thru a 68 that has spent most of its life sitting parked, I would love to hear from you regarding your experiences. The end goal is a driver, not a show car, and not a track car. Ideally, I would like to have it straightened out and reliable before the Corvette Carvan in August. That trek sounded like a good excuse to put a few hundred miles on it.

Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you all.

 

1. Using a dial back timing light set total timing to 36 degrees. You should also install the correct Mr Gasket spring kit for total advance at around 2,800. Your initial depending on distributor will be around 12.
2. Do you have stainless sleeved calipers?

 

I have not pulled the capilpers down to confirm the sleeves yet. I am hoping thay are already stainless sleeved. If they are not, then it will be new calipers instead of just the rebuild.

 

Check the numbers on the pad on the block at the front of the passenger's side head. Two numbers will be stamped there. One will identify the engine; the second should be the VIN derivitive of the vehicle the engine was originally installed in. Your 68 could have the original engine.

That works.

 

RELAX! You have a '68! Repair one system at a time so you don't get overwhelmed.

Turn those headache-related problems into adventures....(I learned that fact after my second bottle of Tylenol!)




EDIT: OOOPS.....I just remembered that another Member posted the statement a few weeks ago

 

Hi again MelWff!
I just responded to a post you made earlier. I am about ready to get started on a brake problem that came this weekend. I will be the first to say I'm a little stupid here, and hate to admit I have no clue how to tell if my calipers have stainless sleeves. How do you tell.

Thanks for any help!

Larry ( stupid )

 

Intake arrived yesterday, Edelbrock Performer. Saw a post claiming the performer EPS will clear the stock hood, but Edelbrock claimed it wouldn't, so went with the base performer (#2101). And gaskets, bolts, carb base plate gasket and new studs.

Exhaust arrives today, full system from Corvette Central; headers, duals, and Magna Flow mufflers. Looked at the MF systems and liked the X pipe setup, but the kit I ordered came w headers compared to the MF system that did not include them. I added new hangers, alternator braket and SS tips and ended up at the same price as the MF system that consisted of only the intermediate pipe to the tail pipe. Would love to have the X pipe, but $ talks and this gave me more parts for the money.

Hope to get at least the intake swapped this weekend, but Easter is interfering. If I am really lucky, the intake and exhaust will both get done.

Found another problem as well. Thought the starter intermittently grinding was a battery issue, so I replaced the 500cca with a new 750cca. Didn't fix it. SO time to pull the starter and hope the bendix is the issue, and not flywheel teeth. It is currently bolted direct, no shims.

Adding shims would drop the bendix relative to the flywheel thereby reducing the contact area on the teeth, correct? If it is not getting solid contact now, shimming should only make it worse, at least in my mind. Anyone have more experience with shimming the starter? Everything I have ever owned was the 'thru the bellhousing' type starter that didn't require shims, so this is new to me.

 

Good luck in your venture. I too bought a 1968 (coupe) and am just getting started. I am going to go with the advice of tackling one system at a time

You mentioned SB headers and sidepipes; did you find a home for those yet? I may be interested if they are worth saving. Thanks, Brian

 

I have em. Have not unbolted them yet, hopefully this weekend. You have first dibs. They are fine, as far as I can see. I would give them a fresh coat of VHT Black, but as the car has not been driven 50 miles in the past 3 years, they don't have much use on them.

 

Thanks - just let me know. No rush at all

 

First off, got the sidepipes off. Pm me an email and I will send pics so you can see them for yourself. Rubber mounts need replaced but hardware is still good.

Now for the problems.

Mr Gasket dipstick tube sheared off flush with block. Ideas? Engine is still in the car.

Teeth on starter are worn. Worse yet, teeth on the flywheel are damaged. Looks like I was right, there should not have been shims.

Only way I know to get the flywheel out is drop tranny or pull engine. Garage isnt set up for either currently. Have to move 69 out to work on 68.

 

Edited:


A '69 ALSO.......NOW I'M REALLY JEALOUS!

 

The 68 like the 63 is in many ways a one off car. I have had my 68 for 42 years. Regarding timing, do a search for a paper written by Lars. Read it a few times and follow it and you will have no problems. Initial timing of 4 degrees is too low. But initial timing is only part of the formula for setting up the timing curve of the engine. Regarding your brakes, as mentioned above, determine if the calipers have been sleeved in stainless steel. If so, I would rebuild with O ring style pistons and rubber. I have done about six cars and all have no problems. You can get a complete kit from Vette Brakes and Products for about $150 for all four wheels. Lastly, if your ring gear is bad, replace it. If it is a stick, buy the gear and have a machine shop replace it. The gear cost about $30. Check the flywheel and if needed, have the machine shop reface it. Also, replace the clutch disc if needed. Also replace the throw out bearing if it is old or worn. Lastly, have the machine shop balance the flywheel, and pressure plate. All of this is cheap insurance for a smooth and long lasting combination. If the car has an automatic, change out the starter wheel. To fix the dipstick, use an old tap just big enough to thread into the casing of the tube and pull it out. If that does not work, pull the oil pan and push the tube up from the bottom. To remove the pan, first remove the idler arm and push the suspension out of the way. This will give you clearance to drop the pan. Take your time and do one project at a time. Good luck. Jerry

 

Thanks! I had not considered replacing just the flywheel gear, I was thinking of this in terms of just replacing the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing. It is a 4spd car.

Another thanks on the suspension/idler arm tip for dropping the oil pan. Tried the easy out and could not get it to budge.

Although with the two combined, I am still debating pulling the engine. Not sure yet, switched gears to the 69 while I am debating what I want to do next on the 68.

Replaced rotors/pads on all 4 corners of the 69. Those rivets are a challenge, but not overly difficult to drill out. Then ground the remainder flush with the hub flange. As a precaution, want to replace all the coolant hoses on the 69 and possibly the vacuum line kit, then it will be interior and paint for that one.

 

First off, welcome to the forum. Many knowledgeable people here that are actually willing to help. I could not have gotten as far as I have with my 69 without their help!!! Just state year of car first off and try to use the correct names for stuff and it makes things a whole lot easier. Again, welcome!!!

 

Thanks!

There are three Vettes. Two that I am working on and one that is a driver.

1969 coupe 427/390 4spd, 46k miles, numbers matching car. Changes from original are the hurst shifter, Holly 800 spreadbore, power steering and A.I.R. were removed. Originally orange, currently Marlboro maroon. Hope to have it repainted to original this summer.

1968 convertible, currently has a 327, 4spd. 68k miles. I have yet to determine original engine for the car. Fairly confident that the current 327 is not original for this car. Stamping on right front of block has been painted over at least one and I cannot make out any stamping.

1974 coupe L48, 4 spd. PS, PB, Tilt/telescopic, leather. 42k miles. Original aside from a repaint (and a bad one at that!) by previous owner in 1998.

The 69 has belonged to my father since the 70's. The other two are mine.

 

attempt to post pic of the 68 and 69

 

and here is the 74

 

68 engine

 

well I dove into the 68. Flywheel, dip stick issue, intake manifold. Pulled engine and trans, fixed and reinstalled. Came out one day and went back in the next. All in all, wasn't too bad. Still don't see how the driveshaft can be removed from the car without removing the trans to make space. Never did get it to clear the body/frame/rear diff/mounting brackets/etc/etc/etc.

Took lots of pics of the process, so if anyone is curious or likes looking at pictures, here you go. lol