Hello,

My 1st post on this forum!

I just got a '69 with a dead motor so I got an LS3 out of a 2011 camaro with a tr6060 6 spd. I've got a couple questions that I'm hoping some that have done this before can help me out with. We'll start at the back:

What is the special fitting called for the slave cylinder and how do I get a line up to the master on the fire wall?

I see the tr6060 has an oil cooler line. I can't remember if the radiator that came with my car has an input for that. If so how are you guys setting yours up?

What kind of master cylinder can I use? I looked at the one that comes out of the camaro and it's not on that bolts to the firewall. I was hoping I could go to something that just bolts to the firewall but I'm assuming the master and slave have to be compatible so I'm looking for some other options. I'd like to use as many stock parts as possible so they're easy to replace when they go out.

Any suggestions on the shifter? I know I'm probably going to have to make something custom. I've seen a guy do it for an IROC but am open to suggestions.

I'm sending my computer to speartech, despite my overall negative impression with their service over the phone. I told them I was new and described my plans. The guy on the phone says well, we can do whatever you want, just tell us. So far I know I have to have the anti-theft disabled, fan temp lowered, egr turned off, 2nd bank of O2 sensors turned off, but past that I'm not sure what I need.

What's the best place to mount the O2 sensors. I've read some posts on the camaro forums elluding to issues with having the sensor too far into the exhaust stream. I just welded the bung in my exhaust on my rice burner and never had any issues. I was using a piggy back controller so I'm sure I would have seen a CEL if there was an issue.

Speaking of the EGR systems, do I need to remove and block anything off or just leave it in place?

There's a pics below (hopefully) with some fill in the blank that I could use some help on...so far I am pretty sure that:

2) speed sensor
4) neutral or reverse switch
5) valve cover vents...not sure what to do with them though...
8) steam line
9) MAF sensor plug
10) vacuum port? there's a sensor by the throttle body...
11, 12, 13) EGR stuff...leave it or pull it off? If anyone knows how it works that would be good to know
14) water temp

Thanks again for the help!

 

11,12&13 in your photo are engine oil/water cooler, you won't be able to install motor mount adapter plates with the system having the return line into the front block like factory, you could do a custom radiator fitting to keep this or remove it. The oil cooler can be eliminated with a conventional LS oil passage ( the plate above the oil filter ) You say the 6 speed also has oil cooler provisions? I think certain models of the TR6060 have an internal oil pump....could just loop the in/out plumbing, unless your planning on high speed track day sessions with your Vette there isn't really a need for the engine/trans oil coolers.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...onnectors.html

I have a 2010 TR6060 with an iron block truck engine in a 74. I might have the only TR6060 in a C3 – this transmission is not swapped into nearly as many cars as the T56 because of its unique attributes – no slip yoke at the tail shaft, divorced shifter, and large case size. What I did may not work for you, as I like to do most things myself and avoid “kits” – I like the challenge.

The quick connect fitting on the slave is different than the older T56 fittings. You can buy the fitting set up for an AN line on Fleabay, but for nearly the same money you can buy a complete pre-made braided line and fittings from vendors like Tick. Or you could mix and match using the original F body line and fittings. The stock line and clutch master is commonly replaced/modified on the Camaro, as it can be the cause of “performance” shifting problems. I would also recommend you add a bleed line extension while you are there as bleeding will be a real pain without one.

I have my cooler fittings looped together for now, but I will connect them to the radiator. It’s not that I worry about overheating so much as I want the trans to come up to operating temp faster and add a little more fluid capacity – this is not an old school gear oil trans.
As far as the clutch master, you need the correct amount of fluid flow. This will be determined by your setup - the bore diameter + stroke distance. There are a few options. You could probably adapt all of the stock Camaro stuff – looks hard to me. The T56 is very similar and some have used that with an 85 Chevy truck master – it bolts up with the correct angle to the pedal, but needs an adjustable rod. You can buy/ make an adapter to bolt an aftermarket master at the correct angle to the pedal. I am using a .75” bore aftermarket master with a homemade angle bracket. I don’t remember the stroke distance, but I added an adjustable clutch stop to prevent blowing out the slave.

As to the shifter, I use a TKO600 shifter with a bracket/shift rod I built to have the shifter location the same distance from the front of the bellhousing as a T56. I could post some pictures later. This would allow using the stock C3 shifter location – also dependant on your motor mount adapters. McCloud makes a shifter you can bolt on the case where the shift rod enters, but this is way forward of where the stock C3 would be.

The rear of the case is large and I needed to cut and raise the trans tunnel. This was after I lowered the drivetrain as much as possible.

The O2 should be mounted where any liquids/vapor would not collect in the sensor – angled downward. As far as too close – Mine are in the C6 exhaust manifolds I am using. Too far away to not heat up is more of a problem.

 

Thanks a ton for the info! I'll keep in touch as I move along.

 

Here is my shifter, the basic design has been copied several times.

There are several good LS swap threads in here and LS1tech. Do a little searching and research before you get started. There are several ways to do each system (fuel, gauges, cross member, exhaust,ect.) and I would look at a number of swaps before I decided on a particular way.
Good luck and welcome to CF

 

Thanks for the info on the 85 truck clutch master. I guess I'll try to get a slave from the junk yard and and a clutch master, hook them up, and see how far I can go without blowing the slave out. Limit the travel 1/4" before blow out, throw it on while the engine is running and see where my friction point is and adjust from there. If anyone's got a better idea I'm all ears. I'd just use the regular camaro master but I've been reading a lot of people have troubles with them not fully disengaging. It seems the newer vettes don't have that issue but the part number for their slave and master are both different. I've tried emailing a couple manufacturers (tremec included) to see if they'd tell me what the travel/fluid volumes should be. No reply yet.

 

I think the truck bore is around 11/16". I am using 3/4, and have seen others use 7/8 and even 1". Of course the larger the bore means shorter pedal movement, and a little higher effort. My stroke is probably around 1 inch to 1.5 inch. The pedal movement is more than that, but less than it was with the old mechanical Muncie. I don't know what size bore the stock Camaro uses. What I did was add a pedal stop, made sure the clutch was disengaging well, then adjusted the stop up to prevent me from getting carried away and slamming the pedal too far.

 

Your alt is going to contact upper a arm. Look into Holley accessories brackets. They have an LS conversion kit.

 

Your AC compressor isn't going to fit into the frame either. Fortunately it's on it's own belt so you can just remove the compressor and mounting bracket. I believe there are aftermarket brackets available to mount the compressor higher on the passenger side.

F-Body accessory mounts work best on LS conversions although there are far more aftermarket alternatives than there were when I did my swap.



Rick B.