When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My car has been running great except after it warms up, around 195-200, and I am at a stop sign or stopped in traffic, the car starts to sputter to the point that I have to left foot the brake and keep pressure on the gas or else the car will sputter and die. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be?
My car has been running great except after it warms up, around 195-200, and I am at a stop sign or stopped in traffic, the car starts to sputter to the point that I have to left foot the brake and keep pressure on the gas or else the car will sputter and die. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be?
Doesn't sound like ignition.......sounds like carb problems.
Exactly what, I can't say.
Jim, give us some more information on your ride (year, etc). It could be many things. Most likely a carb issue, however the ignition can't be overlooked either.
This time of year as the weather moderates and suppliers start shipping summer-blend fuels sometimes we get a load of "bad gas" for the weather that day. Gas is blended differently for the temperature of the seasons. I'd get a fresh tank of gas at a different, big name brand gas station and see if your condition improves.
I would also check your EGR and make sure it is not sticking, after all the cold of winter vacuum lines can take a beating as well. I would not rule out carb either, all the ethanol they use these days can have some devastating effects on carbs, gaskets etc.
Could be a temperature controlled vacuum switch with a hose off or some other such problem. While cold (below its set temp), there is no connection made to the vacuum system. Once that temp is reached, you then have a vacuum leak (excess air into the induction system) which is wreaking havoc with controlling your idle.
Research the vacuum lines on your engine and focus on those that are connected to temperature activated switches.
Could be a temperature controlled vacuum switch with a hose off or some other such problem. While cold (below its set temp), there is no connection made to the vacuum system. Once that temp is reached, you then have a vacuum leak (excess air into the induction system) which is wreaking havoc with controlling your idle.
Research the vacuum lines on your engine and focus on those that are connected to temperature activated switches.
The 78 has 2 TVS switches and also thermac in the intake. Thermac is a controlled leak, but should be accounted for in setting your base idle.
TVS1: in thermostat housing, connects to AIR and EFE if I remember right.
TVS2: on intake, connects to EGR and PCV. Shouldn't be active at idle because the input is ported vacuum.
Thermac: connects from small nipple on rear of carb baseplate (next to power brake fitting), goes to 1 input on the air cleaner. Other side goes to flapper valve/valves on snorkels. When the spring heats up enough, the vacuum bleeds into the air cleaner. This is an intentional vacuum leak and should be compensated for with mixture screws.
Sorry I am just now getting back to the responses. I have a 78 SA. All the emissions has been removed, full length headers, Eddy EPS intake, and Eddy 600 carb.
??? Timing chain stretch allowing timing to change when in gear and warmed up??? Had a funky semi related symptom that lead to a bad timing chain in my situation ... Just throwing ideas out there ... It would idle just fine, die when I put it in gear, had to power break it to put load on the engine... Could even drive it while keeping Rpms up... But it would always idle like nothing was wrong, right until it was warmed up and dropped into gear... Which made it hard to diagnose and find...