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tried on general and got no ideas, so maybe in tech , heres whats happening,
Hi everyone, having a issue that is baffling me. All most everyday my 81 tries to stall out, seems to happen the most on the highway, no computer control anymore, old Holly 650 carb installed by PO, elderbrock intake, obx headers and side pipes, new plugs, wires, new distributor cap, rotor, coil, drained gas, changed carb filter, new fuel pump. It feels like water in the gas when it starts stall, any new ideas or something I missed would be greatly appreciated, I am thinking the only thing left to do is swap out the carb, but before I do that I want figure out if I am missing something
Are you cruising, accelerating/decelerating when this happens? Are you at the same RPM everytime? When it happens how do you get the car running again?
Are you cruising, accelerating/decelerating when this happens? Are you at the same RPM everytime? When it happens how do you get the car running again?
it usually happens when cruising at highway speed with the cruise on, but I have tried it with the cruise off and it still spitters and cuts out, it died going up an onramp 3 days ago, it will always start right back up after I stop, no problem there. it will be going along fine and all the sudden I lose all rpm's and I am assuming it is stalling. oh and at about 2600-2800 rpm
How did you set the choke on the Holley? If youve replaced everything else, maybe the choke isnt opening fully while warmed up?
the water in the gas feeling is like its drawing fuel and it hits a pocket it cant burn
the holley is a 4175, to adjust the electric choke you just losen the screw and turn it, it is opening all the way fine.
just a update on more info on how I have it set up, the computer is still controlling the advance on the distributor, its not vac adavance, but everything else the computer used to do it doesn't anymore. I have run her this way for 3 years now, no issues until I put her away last fall, it started and I figured it was the fuel pump, but after changing that for another OEM one, same issue, same with the cap, coil and rotor swapped those out just to make sure it wasn't my spark. could the dizzy advance be doing this???
and she will sit in the driveway idling all day long with problem and I can rev it up in the driveway and it will not do this, it sounds and feels perfect until it happens when I am driving
The first thing I'd look at is the float along with the needle and seat. MAke sure the needle/seat is still good, and the float is the correct height. Then if that is OK, would be suspicious of the fuel pump.
Then there is that saying 90% of carb problems are in the ignition.
Last edited by htown81vette; Apr 27, 2014 at 10:30 PM.
I'd be willing to bet that the dist. is NOT advancing the timing at all, the computer relies on information from the TPS in the carb to know when and how much to advance the timing, it may run but you are likely loosing a lot of power due to it. I would replace the dist with a vacuum advance model and get it set up right.
I'd be willing to bet that the dist. is NOT advancing the timing at all, the computer relies on information from the TPS in the carb to know when and how much to advance the timing, it may run but you are likely loosing a lot of power due to it. I would replace the dist with a vacuum advance model and get it set up right.
I'd be willing to bet that the dist. is NOT advancing the timing at all, the computer relies on information from the TPS in the carb to know when and how much to advance the timing, it may run but you are likely loosing a lot of power due to it. I would replace the dist with a vacuum advance model and get it set up right.
I wonder what I would need to replace it with a vacuum advance
you will need to replace the entire dist., they are not that expensive and relatively easy to do. you just have to be sure to line up the rotor in the same possition as what's there now, you will then need to set the timing again. take some pictures of the orientation of the current one, if you align the new one the same way you will be close.
As an 81 owner who has looked into every part of the CCC he is correct, without the E4ME carb sending signals to the ECM, your losing a lot as the computer is not controlling the timing....get a vacuum advance dizzy and you should see an immediate change
Originally Posted by Jig A Low
I'd be willing to bet that the dist. is NOT advancing the timing at all, the computer relies on information from the TPS in the carb to know when and how much to advance the timing, it may run but you are likely loosing a lot of power due to it. I would replace the dist with a vacuum advance model and get it set up right.
As an 81 owner who has looked into every part of the CCC he is correct, without the E4ME carb sending signals to the ECM, your losing a lot as the computer is not controlling the timing....get a vacuum advance dizzy and you should see an immediate change
is there any way to replace the ccc controlled dizzy with the vac one without swapping out the entire distributor?
is there any way to replace the ccc controlled dizzy with the vac one without swapping out the entire distributor?
No, they are completely different.
Get a good GM HEI with vac advance and you should be good to go,
Not much point in trying to refit the CCC dizzy with parts to make it a vac advance unit. This is an under $100 fix
Chris sixfooter is correct...if you want I have a GM HEI vacuum advance dizzy. It's the one i removed from my 81 when I converted it back to CCC dizzy. I drove the car home in October 2013 when I bought it with that dizzy in it...few days later yanked it and placed in a box fully operational. It will save you a few bucks if you want it... just pay shipping. It has a new coil in it and it takes the regular 4 PIN ignition module.
**side note I bought an MSD 4 pin instead of a 7 PIN that the CCC dizzy needs...still in box brand new....summit won't take back electrical parts
I had the same issue on my 81. Did the same thing went with a rebuilt quad4 and after market vacume advance dizzy. She is running great! I tried just the carb first but could never get it to run right some days it would then the next not. Finally swaped dizzy (like everyone says under $100 fix) cured all of my problems