Hey guys. Long time lurker here finally got me another Corvette and I need help sourcing a firewall. From about where the gas pedal mounts to the other side of my tunnel is basically just fiberglass mat now. I can stick my fingers through it if I push hard enough. I looked around and I'm not having any luck finding a replacement firewall. New, used I just need one. I thought about just repairing it, but I'm not sure how it'll come out.

 

Here's a picture

 

This can be repaired.

You can get a section and use it also..but you need to let us know the year of your Corvette.

Is the interior removed to get the backside of the fire damage????

How soft is the burned area???

This area can be laminated on...even though the fibers are burned and exposed. It would have to be performed in stages. If the backside of this burned area is it still looking good and looks like no fire damage made it through...then the area can be carefully ground down...and leave LITERALLY a razor blade thickness of the original fiberglass still intact. Then a layer of mat and resin can be applied...allowed to cure...and go to the next area. Doing small sections will maintain the structural shape and building from the GOOD fiberglass and working inwards would get it to the point where the entire area had been covered. Then I would grind that all down and begin adding layers to build up thickness. Because I have done so many fiberglass repairs with the matt and resin...I would suggest you to also laminate a small area on wax paper or what ever...so you know that the 5 layers of matt and resin (for example) will make your repair be "X" thick. That way ...you are not guessing.

And with the fact that you ground the damaged fibers so thin...building it back up but yet still leaving that super thin layer of this damages fiberglass will not hurt anything.

DUB

 

Sorry, it's a 78.

It's pretty soft, but I do believe that the damage didn't make it through to the interior. I'll check on it when I get back home.

The whole car is gutted and the front clip was just removed this morning.

 

That's fire damage. If it's a small area(confined to the pictures), it can repaired (unless it's a show car). Start with the cabin side and clean and sand the glass opposite to the damage and somewhat beyond. Cut fiberglass cloth into pieces about 3"X6". Get some nitrile gloves (harbor freight) and put two gloves on each hand. That way, when it's really messy, you can just strip off the outer glove. Use something like a wooden board or a top from a vinyl storage container to make a work surface. Place the glass strips on the work surface and paint them(cheap chip brushes from harbor freight-buy a box of the 1" brushes for about $7 because you'll need lots of them) with epoxy resin and "wallpaper" the area 3 or 4 layers thick. Then go to the damaged side and sand off the burnt glass(you'll probably go thru to the repair on the cabin side) and continue wallpapering. Just remember that the area to be repaired has to be clean for the new glass to bond. If there are holes thru the firewall from the fire, fabricate a mold with cardboard covered with plastic sheeting, and fasten it to the damaged side with screws and tape. I repaired a large area in one of my cars using this technique, and it's very solid, and much easier than replacing the entire firewall.

 

Awesome! Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot. Definitely not going to be a show car.

 

In case you decide to go with a section or whole firewall call the guys at Contemporary Corvettes in Bristol, PA, http://www.contemporarycorvette.com/

It's amazing what they come up with. I've bought a T-56 tranny, a C3 steering column, and the upper cowl (the section above the firewall) from them.

Dub, it's great to see you back on the forum. All the advice and over the phone fiberglass repair instruction you gave me was great.

 

Location helps also

 

Midland TX. Just updated my profile!

 

Don't know the seller buttthis may help

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4435238093.html

 

Thanks, I wrote him an email just in case this doesn't turn out well.

On a second note, the damage extends to where the riveted metal plate is mounted. I'm thinking I measure it's exact location, drill out the rivets and put it back on the repaired area. Correct?

 

It looks like repairing or replacing would be a similar amount of work.

I did some boat repairing last summer and used West resin. Get the pumps to mix it too. That stuff worked great. Personally, I'd use bigger pieces than 3" x 6". Not big enough to cover the area in 1 piece but enough to cover a good part of it at once. I was probably using 6" x 24" as the largest pieces. I brushed resin on the surface, laid the mat down and then worked more resin into it until it was fully wet.

A good supply place should have the resin and mat and also cheap cardboard mixing cups you can use. Brushes can be used again if you clean them with acetone between uses. The gloves can too once the resin hardens just stretch then to knock it off and use them again. The heavy kitchen gloves can be re-used this way if you so wanted to.

Check out YouTube for boatworkstoday. He has a multi-part hole repair video that will likely be helpful.

Also, have someone there to help mix more resin or cut/hand you/position more pieces of glass mat.

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

I've done fiberglass work in the past, but it's always been new from scratch stuff or light repairing. Just hadn't messed with fire damage before.

Got a little bit in tonight and got the interior side done for the most part. Going to start stripping out the engine bay side tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

NEEDLESS TO WRITE:
You can do it anyway you choose...but it seems that you are open to suggestions.

SO BEFORE you jump in and start this repair...I would highly advise you to post your intentions.

YES...I would also use WEST SYSTEMS resin if I were to laminate this repair. And with it being soft....that is not an issue as long at the inside looks undamaged.

Just be aware there is a special bonding adhesive where the SMC firewall is riveted to the steel floor pan. And If you do plan on getting section and using it...using a heat gun to heat and soften the adhesive where the rivets are is very helpful.

DUB

 

I have a firewall out of a 75 if your interested in a trip to the WI/IL state line.

 

just so you know your options, ... if you can find a replacement, it may be easier,to remove and replace the complete firewall,
the firewall will completely seperate from the body at the seams.
completely removeable and replaceable, no cutting required, just heat, and split the factory seams.
you will have to drill a few rivets, if they have not already corroded into dust.
good luck on your choice.
Before:


After:

 

Thanks for all the help, and the offer for the firewall. I have started the rebuild of the firewall. So far it is going well, I will post results when it is finished.