I started this thread a few weeks ago,

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...t-problem.html

Since then I got the engine running and sure enough there is no clutch. I checked the linkage and everything seems fine. Any ideas before I pull the trans.

 

Just a dumb question but did you tighten the pressure plate all the way down until all the ears were touching the flywheel to load the pressure plate spring? If everything else seems fine as you stated in the last thread with the linkage etc. this is the only other thing I can think of.

 

I am sure I did. But I think if I left them loose there would be some sort of noise from that area.

 

The diaphragm is collapsed over center, possibly due to the use of a throw out bearing that is too long.

JMHO

Do you get any type of clutch "feel" when you depress the pedal?

 

No clutch feel at all. It feels like the linkage is to short. bought a kit and it came with the clutch, pressure plate and and bearing.

 

Is the throw out arm moving?

Did you forget to put the throw out bearing on it?

If yes to one and no to two, the diaphragm is compressed over center. I have no other possible explanation.

 

I know I put the throw out bearing in. The arm moves a little, probably not enough to engage the clutch. This is the first time something like this has happened. I have done this before with no problems.

 

When you depress the pedal to the floor, how much is the throw out arm moving?

 

Not sure. I don't have a helper to press the pedal while I look.

I am going to put the car up on stands to check it out.


I will probably be pulling the trans tomorrow.

 

Before you do that, go through the linkage carefully. I had one break a weld on the z bar once and acted just like you are saying.

Good luck!

 

What clutch is it?

JIM

 

Had everything out to paint the parts. I will check everything again.

 

Jim it is a Zoom replacement type clutch and kit.

 

QUESTIONS:

Why are you saying you have NO CLUTCH???

Is it because you can not get it to engage with the engine RUNNING???

Can you get the transmission into gear WITHOUT the engine running???? AND ...if you can....when you press on the clutch pedal with it in gear...can you roll the car at all???

When you did this clutch...did you replace the pilot bushing??? IF so...what type????

When you mated the engine and transmission....how did you do it??? Meaning did you use a transmission jack or just get it up and in the best you could. Did you have to force it to go all the way in when getting the transmission in??? Possible damage to the pilot bushing may have occurred.

When you apply light pressure to the clutch fork...like you are trying to get it or release...is the clutch fork basically in the center of the hole where your rubber dust boot goes????

For what it is worth. I have been "bit" in the past when I have done a clutch job and could not get it in gear when the engine was running...OR...IF I got it in gear when the engine was NOT running...when I pressed in on the clutch...and cranked the engine...the car would roll....and only to find after taking it all back out...that it was the pilot bushing pinching/binding the input shaft.

DUB

 

Dub with the car running the trans will not engage. If the engine is not running I can go thru the gears. If I crank the motor with the trans in gear the car will jump forward. I have not tried to roll the car with it in gear and pushing the clutch in. I have the car on jack stands right now so I guess I will try to spin a tire with someone holding the pedal down.

I replace the pilot bearing with the one that came in the kit.

When I put it together I used a regular jack to hold it up while I slid the trans unto place. I did it last year. But I seem to remember not having any problems with it.

The clutch fork appears to be in the center of the boot.

I have done more than my share of clutch jobs and have never come across this problem. I really don't want to pull the trans but I might have to to solve the problem.

 

Maybe the clutch fork clip didn't catch the pivot ball or the clip broke off and is not allowing the throw out/linkage to travel properly.

 

I took the rubber boot off and the fork seems to be on the pivot.

I also went and put the car in gear and had my wife push down on the clutch pedal and I couldn't spin the tires.

 

How far out (towards the front of the car) is the swivel bracket on the push rod? After I installed my new clutch and adjusted the proper free play to about an inch it is only an inch front the end of the push rod.

 

Use a video camera (cell phone?), depress the clutch and watch the movie afterwards

 

If this all happened immediately after the install, then we've likely got an issue with throwout bearing/pivot length assuming something isn't FUBAR with the pressure plate itself or the disc isn't in backwards.

There are several clutch types out there, but I'm assuming this is a diaphragm type. There are two types of those..normal and "raised". Many hi-perf type are the raised type which means fingers are closer to the trans. They take a shorter bearing and/or stud. If it had a "raised" style in it and then we installed a normal replacement one, the bearing is too short and you'll have a ton of movement before it contacts the pressure plate fingers. Even if you adjust out all the freeplay, the geometry will be goofy and it won't release correctly. There used to be 3 lengths of throwout bearings sold....but over the years it has been reduced to only 2...a short and a long. McLeod sells a neat bearing with different sleeves that allow it to be all 3 lengths that works great. Probably not needed here...I would look at the stud length to see if it might need a longer one to put the bearing closer to the pressure plate at rest. Typically you want the throwout arm to be as far forward as possible when not depressed. If it's pointing straight out at rest, as it goes over center when depressing it you run out of travel.

You're sure the disc isn't in backwards?? It's happened to many many folks!

JIM