Sequence for Bleeding Brakes:
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Port Allen Louisiana
Sequence for Bleeding Brakes:
I have been told to start with the furthest wheel/caliper from the MC, which I would think would be the right rear, then left rear, then right front and left front. And on the rear to start with the inner bleeders. But my 1980 Corvette service manual said's to start with the left rear, then right rear, left front and then the right front. Which is correct, or will either way work? Thanks..
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 2
From: Seguin TX
I have been told to start with the furthest wheel/caliper from the MC, which I would think would be the right rear, then left rear, then right front and left front. And on the rear to start with the inner bleeders. But my 1980 Corvette service manual said's to start with the left rear, then right rear, left front and then the right front. Which is correct, or will either way work? Thanks..
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Port Allen Louisiana
Brake line routing:
Typically it is LR lower bleeder first, upper bleeder second, then RR lower, upper RF, LF but since that is for earlier C3 the 80 manual is usually written how the factory did it. Could be a difference in the proportional valve and distribution blocks but with that said air is air and you usually want to start at the furthest point from the master cylinder. Look at the routing of the brake lines in your 80 manual and see if the RH is further away than the LH.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
I did that. It certainly looks like to me that the Right rear and the Right front are further away than the two left calipers. But the book said's to do them first. I think I will go with the furthest first which is opposite of what the manual said's. Or I may do it BOTH ways. Furthest first and then the way the manual said's to do it. No harm it that I would think.??? I'm using a Motive Power Bleeder to do the job.
Also remember you are dealing with two independent and separate closed systems, front and rear. They have no connection with each other.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
I've always worked from the 'closest bleeder' to the 'farthest bleeder', working the air out of the system as I went. There is always a chance of injecting air into the system any time a bleed valve is opened. Why would I want to work "out" to "in"?
Never made sense to do it the other way, so I never did. Haven't had any significant problems doing it this way.
Never made sense to do it the other way, so I never did. Haven't had any significant problems doing it this way.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 11
From: Schaumburg IL
the sequence has been stated in post. My suggestion is to use a power bleeder. I have gone the route of peddle pumping, mighty vac method, phoenix bleeder product, but by in far the Motive Power Bleeder gives the best bleed that lasts. This has been on 2 different vetts. Others may have different opinions but I have tried them all and lock in on the power bleeder.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 2
From: Seguin TX
I did that. It certainly looks like to me that the Right rear and the Right front are further away than the two left calipers. But the book said's to do them first. I think I will go with the furthest first which is opposite of what the manual said's. Or I may do it BOTH ways. Furthest first and then the way the manual said's to do it. No harm it that I would think.??? I'm using a Motive Power Bleeder to do the job.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
The service manual says to start with the left rear inner. I've had good luck starting with the right rear inner, then moving to the left, then the right front, and end with the left front.
On the rears, the inner caliper halves must be bled first, then the outers.
On the rears, the inner caliper halves must be bled first, then the outers.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 833
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
omg, 4 rags or tee shirts under the bleeders , open the master cylinder top . then open the inner rear and front bleeders, as they flow clear close each bleeder when the inner rears run clear open the outers keep the reservoir topped off. you can't make it easier.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 81
From: Hamilton Virginia
Gravity bleeding is a little messy but works. I had a old truck I actually tried to bleed by pumping the pedal to bleed the rear, never got it to work. popped the bleeders open and let it sit for about an hour while watching the level, boom. all done pedal firm as can be. I havent done the gravity bleed on the vette but I think I will try it.
Last edited by scrappy76; May 21, 2014 at 02:41 PM. Reason: spelling
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
the sequence has been stated in post. My suggestion is to use a power bleeder. I have gone the route of peddle pumping, mighty vac method, phoenix bleeder product, but by in far the Motive Power Bleeder gives the best bleed that lasts. This has been on 2 different vetts. Others may have different opinions but I have tried them all and lock in on the power bleeder.
Couldn't agree more!!! I tried them all and pressure bleeding is the ONLY way I will do it now. Works every time with no wait!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
I've done both. Gravity bleeding and using a plastic mallet to tap the caliper I was bleeding seemed to work very well. I put a pan under the side I was bleeding with a few paper towels in it. Very little mess and very good results. And I can do it alone.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Port Allen Louisiana
Master Cyllinder may be BAD:
This is where I'm at now. First off, after installing all new pads, brake hoses and lines, front wheel brgs. and seals, new oring calipers, and rotors turned, I had a very hard brake pedal. The hard pedal turned out to be a bad check valve on booster. After replacing the valve, I now had a spongy soft pedal .I then did a so called bench bleed of the master ON the car since it was already mounted. I replaced it about 4 years ago along with the booster. Then I power bled all the lines thru the calipers using a Motive bleeder. After, I still have the same pedal. I purchased 2 more quarts of brake fluid and did the power bleed all over. Still soft pedal. I can go down the road and the car will stop, but now well at all. Pedal is soft and you have to press hard. I would not go drive in town with the brakes as they are now. With nothing to lose other than a little time and brake fluid I was thinking about doing the gravity bleed. By what some have written I'm a little confused on the sequence for that.?? At this point I thing the MC is bad.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Port Allen Louisiana
Squence for Pressure Bleeding:
