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The plug or screwdriver should NOT be touching metal. It should no more then 1/4" away from the metal...you want to see an arch traveling from plug to metal...
Well things were hot and I am old and crap happens.
You a brave man to drive a 40 year old car 2900 miles
Yes, but last year I made the round trip with no spare tire. My Pamela would not let me go this year without one.
Last year the heating_cooling fan failed, the alternator had trouble with high speed and high amp loads and the ac leaked. The year I have new seals on the ac piping, CS130 alternator and everything is fine.
Except some how there are two holes in the coolant expantion tank, which I epoxied and hope it holds because the new one is going to my house in NY, not my sons shop in San Diego.
Nothing like a challenge, did I mention the weather is a 9 and it's a 4 back home.
Yes, but last year I made the round trip with no spare tire. My Pamela would not let me go this year without one.
LOL! you maybe the only C3 in existence with real spare. Mine is from like 1981/2 I leave it there to even out the weight and in case my brake lights go out and someone rear ends me.
You also want to be completely sure the rotor in the distributor was pointing in the same direction and that it and the shaft notch wasn't 180 degrees out which yours wasnt or it wouldnt start but The mark can also be off being that the distributors are not likely exactly the same. They may have different springs , weights and timing curves as well as vacuum can sensitivity...basically they all vary a bit. Like a Carb can.
If the same timing orientation / position worked just as well for all stock distributors there would be a marked position from the factory no? The $60 eBay ones for example do not perform the same as the OEM ones for reasons above as well as manufacturing quality variances... And I can say that as I have one.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 27, 2014 at 11:13 PM.
You also want to be completely sure the rotor in the distributor was pointing in the same direction and that it and the shaft notch wasn't 180 degrees out which yours wasnt or it wouldnt start but The mark can also be off being that the distributors are not likely exactly the same. They may have different springs , weights and timing curves as well as vacuum can sensitivity...basically they all vary a bit. Like a Carb can.
If the same timing orientation / position worked just as well for all stock distributors there would be a marked position from the factory no? The $60 eBay ones for example do not perform the same as the OEM ones for reasons above as well as manufacturing quality variances... And I can say that as I have one.
Well I marked old distributor position on the engine by drawing line off the vacuum can nipple on the valve cover. The rotor was marked on the distributor for both the installed position and the position when the distributor was removed. That put me very close and the car starts with no knocking on light acceleration. What I need is a Auto Parts Store that rents a timing light!