Took some time searching here for a photo of a fully seated harmonic balancer on an engine, with no luck.

Can someone please take a qiuck photo of their's, showing the gap between balancer and cover? I assume a SB is the same as a BB.

Much appreciated.

Steve

 

Don't know if this helps at all
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73 BB
M

 

And a CLEAN one too!
An extra Thank You Mooser . Anytime I can take a canuck away from a good hockey game, I feel lucky!

 

Man......the seal area is very close to the hub...

but the outer ring on the balancer has plenty of clearance from the oil pan!

 

Here is mine. LT1 8" HD damper.

It looks like it is seated on further than Mooser's is. But it's hard to tell.

 

Wow! No space at all.

Thanks for the pics guys.

 

Would a straight _____________ edge to line up the waterpump pulley with the crankshaft pulley installed on the harmonic balancer show the final location of where the balancer should be set?

 

IIRC, on a small block, the front of the balancer to the front of the crank is pretty close to 1" when fully seated

 

Thanks, it's fresh though and as long as I don't put any oil in, it should remain nice and clean


what's hockey?

 

This hole doesn't serve as a depth gauge for HB installation, does it?

 

I was having the same issue a couple of weeks ago after my balancer let go. The replacement one (8" from Advance Auto) does not seem to go back as far as the original looking at the seal area. However, the pulleys line up perfectly. The balancer is visible looking through the small hole on the tab and just about divides it.

 

Half-way through the hole.

Gottchya.

Steve

 

The primary (only) concern is belt alignment. Heavier (high performance engines) balancers are thicker than lighter (base engines) balancers. They all seem to be designed so the front face ends up in the same plane so the belts align. That means the back surface of the ring can be at different distances from the timing cover/block than others depending on the thickness. So measure the front surface, not the back.

Pete

 

Got it Pete!

I used a torque/feel principal this time.
When I broke the tool the first time seating the NB on the crank, I had no idea of how much torque was enough. And I found out by breaking the tool.
This time, using a USA made tool, and heating the HB/cooling the crank's snout, I took more careful note of the torque. I had a very slight rise in torque as the tool pushed the HB on further and further. Then, rather suddenly, there was a fast rise in torque/wrenching force. Now, after previously breaking the tool by applying too much force, I made the decision to push the HB on just an RCH more, hoping this was where the HB's hub contacted the timing gear. Installed pulley and torqued it's bolt to 60 ft/lbs.
After installing the waterpump and all other pulleys & belts, I found out if the HB was seated properly: All Pulleys & Belts Lined Up Beautifully. Was all I could ask for at the time.

Now for the timing. I hooked up the timing light first and started the engine. Shined the light on the new balancer, and couldn't even find the mark right away. Then I saw it, way up almost on the top arc of the HB. So I loosened the distributor hold down, and adjusted the mark down to 12 degrees BTDC. But the idle dropped a lot and didn't sound good. Tightened the distributor and took it for a drive. WHAT A DOG! Didn't want to start, hesitated when I gave it the gas, lacked power; just overall worse than before.

After sleeping on it, I remembered some engines require disconnection and plugging of distributor vacume advance lines when timing. So, this morning I did that, and then with the timing light, went looking for the mark. Found it to be off the pointer scale (about 12 degrees ATDC)!
Readjusted the distributor to 12 degrees BTDC, and RIGHT AWAY saw a rise in idle (back to 700 RPM). Tightened it down, hooked up the vacume line, and now: the engine starts immediately, idles smoothly, accelerates responsively, and has lotsa power.

A very expeirienced mech gave me the idea to do the idle/drop adjustment on the stock Q-Jet also. After that, will gas up the car and see what the fuel mileage becomes. Remember is was 6.2 MPG before all this started.

Steve