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Patriot headers won't clear starter ground cable

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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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Default Patriot headers won't clear starter ground cable

I'm installing Patriot tight tuck headers, and have a couple minor interference issues on the passenger's side, one of which is the starter ground cable. The cable is short enough that it is in the path of the header. When I removed cable to test-fit the header, I noticed it was cooked on one end, as if it never cleared the stock manifold in the first place. It measures just under 14" long. Is this typical or do I have a short one from the factory? I plan to get one several inches longer so I can route it around the exhaust without touching - has anyone else had this problem? How long of a starter ground cable did you need to clear the Patriot headers?
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Old May 30, 2014 | 01:04 AM
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You can make that main ground cable about any length you want, as long as it is a #2 awg braided copper wire (welding cable works nicely, as it is very flexible) and it runs from a cleaned area of the frame to the motor mount & front starter bracket attachment bolt. It's important that the ground cable make direct connection to the starter housing so that resistance in that electrical path is minimized. How that cable is routed makes little difference; but, shorter is better.

P.S. It isn't important that the cable be flexible...it's just easier to work with if it is. Stay away from aluminum-wire cables.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You can make that main ground cable about any length you want, as long as it is a #2 awg braided copper wire (welding cable works nicely, as it is very flexible) and it runs from a cleaned area of the frame to the motor mount & front starter bracket attachment bolt. It's important that the ground cable make direct connection to the starter housing so that resistance in that electrical path is minimized. How that cable is routed makes little difference; but, shorter is better.

P.S. It isn't important that the cable be flexible...it's just easier to work with if it is. Stay away from aluminum-wire cables.
Thanks. Couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I picked up a 30" #2 AWG stranded copper battery cable from Pep Boys and will cut it to fit without touching the exhaust. For the record - it appears the stock length replacements are just over 15". Mine was just under 14", which may explain why it contacted the stock manifold. I calculated I need at least 18" to safely route around the header.

Funny you should mention aluminum wire - the factory (I assume) cable I am replacing is copper clad aluminum.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by indydoug
Thanks. Couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I picked up a 30" #2 AWG stranded copper battery cable from Pep Boys and will cut it to fit without touching the exhaust. For the record - it appears the stock length replacements are just over 15". Mine was just under 14", which may explain why it contacted the stock manifold. I calculated I need at least 18" to safely route around the header.

Funny you should mention aluminum wire - the factory (I assume) cable I am replacing is copper clad aluminum.
OEM parts are wonderful....but doing it better Is better
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 08:00 PM
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I know this thread is two years old, but man oh man this is just what I was looking for for my 74 resto. Thank you to everyone!
I'm doing all the steps you described, and am going to use the 2/0 welding or Marine for the batt-starter run. The only change i'm doing is running high temp shield on the wire when it comes out from behind the DEI heatshield in the tunnel to the starter.

Im also using solid motor mounts, but and still going to run the block ground and starthousing braided ground. Yeah, overkill but why not.
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