RPM problem
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Ok, that makes sense.
I have two but one is inside the other.
Looks like I have approx. 1/32" movement in the throttle with or without the cable connected.
When it idles high I can slow it down by grabbing the throttle and moving it counter clockwise 1/32"
I am beginning to thing the carb is messed up internally.
I have two but one is inside the other.
Looks like I have approx. 1/32" movement in the throttle with or without the cable connected.
When it idles high I can slow it down by grabbing the throttle and moving it counter clockwise 1/32"
I am beginning to thing the carb is messed up internally.
Le Mans Master
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From: Palmdale CA
Just thinking. Do you feel any slack under the gas pedal when this happens? Or is it right under your foot in the normal position?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
All the above are good suggestions and I'm surprised that none of them fixed the problem.
Could something under the dash be hanging up the pedal?
Could something under the dash be hanging up the pedal?
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I also checked for vac leaks and tightened up all nuts on carb and manifold.
I have been messing with cars since the 60's and never had a pain in the *** problem like this one.
I can't drive the car now because its dangerous.
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Drifting
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Schoons can be right.
Years ago, (in an occasionaly used truck with a smallblock) I found a distributor cam stuck firmly on the mainshaft, allowing no advance, due to lack of use and/or grease. The thing ran like #$%^, and the dealer just changed the points, cap and rotor without discovering the problem. Idled like a champ; still ran like %^&* on the road. When my driver got back, I discovered the cause after having had a few minutes to look at it. After I paid the dealer to fix it.
Long story short, make sure the advance mechanism is moving smoothly.
Years ago, (in an occasionaly used truck with a smallblock) I found a distributor cam stuck firmly on the mainshaft, allowing no advance, due to lack of use and/or grease. The thing ran like #$%^, and the dealer just changed the points, cap and rotor without discovering the problem. Idled like a champ; still ran like %^&* on the road. When my driver got back, I discovered the cause after having had a few minutes to look at it. After I paid the dealer to fix it.
Long story short, make sure the advance mechanism is moving smoothly.
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After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
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Problem Solved
After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
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After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
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After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
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Is your vacuum advance connected to the "ported" vacuum ? Or is it connected to full vacuum at idle ?
If connected to ported (no vacuum at idle), this sometimes causes some weird idle issues while driving.
You might also want to check the mechanical advance weights/springs in the dist. If they are sticky, they get "advanced" when driving and they slowly return keeping the timing advanced until they return.
(Advanced timing = fast idle)
If connected to ported (no vacuum at idle), this sometimes causes some weird idle issues while driving.
You might also want to check the mechanical advance weights/springs in the dist. If they are sticky, they get "advanced" when driving and they slowly return keeping the timing advanced until they return.
(Advanced timing = fast idle)
After trying everything I switched carbs and my Vet ran fine.
I took the bad carb to a shop and when they tested it they found the bottom was warped.
This sucks, the Holley is a couple of years old and under 3K miles.
Safety Car
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From: anchorage ak
This some times happens when the base plate nuts are overtightened especially when hot. Iirc it's only torqued to 10 ftlbs.
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what difference it makes with the right size carb.
Hats off to Holley on this one, really nice carb.
Safety Car
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From: Bridgewater nj
By any chance do you have the idle kick up solenoid ? They're on all cars with AC but some cars without AC have them to. My mom had a 71 chevelle and that little sucker had a mind of its own and would kick the idle up at random. It took many hours to nail that one down.
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Problem was bad carb