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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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Default RPM problem

Got a tough one here
My 74 idles at 800 curbed but when I am driving no-matter what gear I am in if I take my foot off the gas my RPM sticks at 1500 until I come to a complete stop and then I takes approx 10-15 seconds to drop back to 800
In my driveway with the hood up and manually working throttle no problem.
Any advice welcome
Forgot to mention 700cfm Holley DP 4 speed
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:48 PM
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It may be too weak throttle return spring or incorrect throttle spring bracket.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
It may be too weak throttle return spring or incorrect throttle spring bracket.
New springs correct bracket
Only have problem when driving not idling
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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Can you take a picture and post a driver side image of your carb setup without the air cleaner on it?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GRipp 73
Can you take a picture and post a driver side image of your carb setup without the air cleaner on it?
I can't right now but the setup has been the same for years and just started acting crazy the other day
When I manually rev the engine the rpm drop right back when I release the linkage.
When I am driving it hangs up
The carb is a couple of years old springs etc the same
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Maybe you are getting a vacuum leak under the carb. I've had that happen before.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
Maybe you are getting a vacuum leak under the carb. I've had that happen before.
I tightened all the nuts today no help
Tomorrow I will spray some propane along the edge of the manifold etc and c what happens
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SCHOONS
I tightened all the nuts today no help
Tomorrow I will spray some propane along the edge of the manifold etc and c what happens
Yeah, but could be a bad gasket. My car acted just like yours and it was the carb gasket. Either way, I am guessing a vacuum leak somewhere.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SCHOONS
I tightened all the nuts today no help
Tomorrow I will spray some propane along the edge of the manifold etc and c what happens
Originally Posted by bondoboy
Yeah, but could be a bad gasket. My car acted just like yours and it was the carb gasket. Either way, I am guessing a vacuum leak somewhere.
I am leaning that way also
If it is a bad gasket and I spray the propane around the base of the carb the engine rpm should increase
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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EGR sticking open?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
EGR sticking open?
Don't think I have one of those
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:51 PM
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Bad motor mount, engine torqueing over, pulling the throttle?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Bad motor mount, engine torqueing over, pulling the throttle?
Not likely. The cable is designed to let the engine move about a bit without affecting the throttle position.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gcusmano74
Not likely. The cable is designed to let the engine move about a bit without affecting the throttle position.
Not likely but easy to check, no telling what bubba might have done to some of these cars.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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Is your vacuum advance connected to the "ported" vacuum ? Or is it connected to full vacuum at idle ?

If connected to ported (no vacuum at idle), this sometimes causes some weird idle issues while driving.

You might also want to check the mechanical advance weights/springs in the dist. If they are sticky, they get "advanced" when driving and they slowly return keeping the timing advanced until they return.
(Advanced timing = fast idle)
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SCHOONS
I can't right now but the setup has been the same for years and just started acting crazy the other day
When I manually rev the engine the rpm drop right back when I release the linkage.
When I am driving it hangs up
The carb is a couple of years old springs etc the same
I'd say it was the throttle cable sticking. The fact that you can manually rev the engine at the carb and it's easily dropping back, versus going through the cable is the difference that points to the cable, IMHO.

And add the fact, that you're running a Holley DP and if you're running the stock cable, that is a problem, as the Holley's linkages puts the cable farther back, forcing the already too-long cable into a tortuous bend (or bends...), that's less than optimal and causes a lot of internal friction inside the cable jacket.

Stock




Holley Carb



My custom cable set up. It is actually a little bit too short. I could've lengthened it a 1/2" and it would've been perfect, but it works well and never hangs up

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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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Cable is MUCH too short. You need to fix that before you address any other "issue".
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by F22
I'd say it was the throttle cable sticking. The fact that you can manually rev the engine at the carb and it's easily dropping back, versus going through the cable is the difference that points to the cable, IMHO.

And add the fact, that you're running a Holley DP and if you're running the stock cable, that is a problem, as the Holley's linkages puts the cable farther back, forcing the already too-long cable into a tortuous bend (or bends...), that's less than optimal and causes a lot of internal friction inside the cable jacket.

Stock




Holley Carb



My custom cable set up. It is actually a little bit too short. I could've lengthened it a 1/2" and it would've been perfect, but it works well and never hangs up

Question for you
Why do u have two springs on your throttle?
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SCHOONS
Question for you
Why do u have two springs on your throttle?
In case one breaks (which they sometimes do) there's always one there.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
Is your vacuum advance connected to the "ported" vacuum ? Or is it connected to full vacuum at idle ?

If connected to ported (no vacuum at idle), this sometimes causes some weird idle issues while driving.

You might also want to check the mechanical advance weights/springs in the dist. If they are sticky, they get "advanced" when driving and they slowly return keeping the timing advanced until they return.
(Advanced timing = fast idle)
Hi,
I checked out the springs in dist and one looked a little stretched out so I replaced both of them.
Vet still having idle sticking problems.
I checked everything and still no luck.
I will be installing a heavier throtle spring tomorrow and maybe that will help.

Last edited by SCHOONS; Jun 3, 2014 at 06:36 PM.
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