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Alternator to battery wire

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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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Default Alternator to battery wire

Can you run a direct wire from the + terminal on the alternator to the + on the battery, along with the one in the harness?
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 01:37 PM
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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You mean instead of changing the original to a larger size? If you do it that way you should put a fusible link on that line too.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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If you do something like that, you should upgrade to a larger gauge wire WITH some type of fuse in'line to keep the car from burning up (or down) if an electrical problem occurs.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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Default Wire

Will be sure to fuse if I do that.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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The 1980 Corvettes are run like that from the factory. A separate wire runs from the alternator and along the drivers side frame rail, then up in to the battery compartment to a small junction block. Then from the junction block to the battery terminal.

When I changed over to a CS144 alternator I replaced the alternator charge wire with a larger 4 gauge wire then removed the junction block and installed a "mega fuse" in it's place.

Last edited by KENS80V; Jun 8, 2014 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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I'm having a flickering ammeter needle and was wondering if the wire or connection was bad.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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Back in the mid 80's my alternator charge wire broke at that small junction block in the battery compartment. Check your wiring connections there.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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Quick question what will you accomplish by running wire to battery.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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Having the ammeter needle fluttering and battery won't stay up. Thought if there was a bad wire in the charge circuit this might help.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 08:56 PM
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So for instance my battery amp needle always stays around 5 just a little over the 0. I have to disconnect my battery after I park every time. like last night I forgot to disconnect and this afternoon battery died would this help in charging the battery and keep my light from dimming every time I get a red light. Just wondering cuz if it helps I will also try it any pics or info would be appreciated. I changed my alternator to a msd 120 amp and it didn't make a difference from stock one.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
The 1980 Corvettes are run like that from the factory. A separate wire runs from the alternator and along the drivers side frame rail, then up in to the battery compartment to a small junction block. Then from the junction block to the battery terminal.

When I changed over to a CS144 alternator I replaced the alternator charge wire with a larger 4 gauge wire then removed the junction block and installed a "mega fuse" in it's place.
What he said. I too, have ran a larger wire, but the LS alternator puts out quite a bit more than stock 350 unit did. From the J-Block, I also ran a heavier gauge wiring for the blower motor wiring.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
The 1980 Corvettes are run like that from the factory. A separate wire runs from the alternator and along the drivers side frame rail, then up in to the battery compartment to a small junction block. Then from the junction block to the battery terminal.

When I changed over to a CS144 alternator I replaced the alternator charge wire with a larger 4 gauge wire then removed the junction block and installed a "mega fuse" in it's place.

I have some questions relating to this post....
What is the purpose of the junction block?
Why is the wire between the +ve terminal & junction box smaller?
What amperage should that wire be? Is 50 amp ok?
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