When I bought the car it came with a smaller pump I never used the mechanical pump this is my first classic car

 

With the 1/4 return line your system is not going to work properly. To change your return line you need to lift the body. I do have 3/8 feed and return lines on mine that I installed when I had the body off. Classic tube made them for me at just a few dollars more than the stock lines with AN fittings on each end. This is so if I later decide to add fuel injection.
But for what you have you would be better off just installing a mechanical pump, but make sure it has a return or you may have vapor lock problems.
Unless you have lots of power, run high rpms, or have forced induction you don't need a electric pump with a carb.

 

You can certainly change the return line with the body off, but it is not necessary. You don’t need to remove the body to drop the fuel tank. You don’t have to route the fuel lines in the original location, this is not a NCRS job. If they are securely mounted and protected from heat, road hazards, and moving parts, they will be fine. AN fittings are fine but are not required for injection. I have high volume, high pressure fuel injection with my LS swap and use late model nylon fuel lines. If I was to use braided AN line it would just be at the flex points, as I am not a fan of full length braided line in “street” fuel systems. A new line could be fabricated with some stock tubing and a bender. If it is too much to form your own return line, you could simply buy a standard 3/8 feed line, mount it next to the original feed line and use it as the return. A good mechanical pump will probably run your engine, but if you want to go that way, first check that your 383 has mechanical pump provisions – later model blocks used electric pumps. I would still use the regulator if I went this route. If you go with a mechanical pump, you could still have return line problems if the tubing is plugged or in poor condition.

 

I'm using a non-bypass style Holley regulator with my Holley Black electric pump (140gph). I ran a 1/4" return line off one of the regulator ports, with the other port going to the carb (obviously). I understand that you'll probably get longer life out of the pump using the bypass style regulator, but I've had my current setup going for about 12 years I'd guess. Granted there are no long freeway cruises in my car, but maybe switching to a non-bypass regulator is an option for the OP?

 

There is many different ways to set up a fuel system and the important thing to remember is that, like the rest of the car it is a system and all the parts have to work together.
My original question was why do you need an electric fuel pump. That has still not been answered, but just like everyone else I an just trying to help you get your car on the road. Its summer time, time to take the T tops of and drive! Reasons to have a electric pump could be because the engine block you have does not have the provision for a mechanical pump, or because you have a 600 HP 383 that needs the fuel with nitrous and/or a super charger. Or it could be that the person that you bought the car did not understand what parts were needed to make everything work correctly together in a system. I could also suspect that whoever installed the 383 thought that the stock pump would not work and installed a aftermarket mechanical pump, then they had vapor lock problems because there was no return line and did not know that they could add a bypass to the system so they went electrical.
Also for safety do you have an inertia switch wired in with your electric pump? Years ago my stepdad had a 383 in a 83 chevy truck with fuel injection. Someone ran a red light and hit him and the fuel line ruptured. The engine died but the fuel pump keeped pumping and spraying fuel. That could have been bad if it ignited. This is why factory cars with electric pumps have inertia switches and I feel any aftermarket set up also should.
If your running your car on the track at high rpms for an extended amount of time or have fuel injection than that’s a good reason for an electric fuel pump.
I am going to assume that your 383 is a typical street engine with mild aftermarket heads and cam and the car has street gears, if so a mechanical pump will work, easy to install and cheap.
As earlier in this post others stated that the electric pump should be in the rear pushing not pulling fuel, also if using a bypass regulator you need a larger return. Than you need to modify your fuel tank where the return line attaches so you do not have a choke point. Lots of work if not needed.
My current system on my car is that when I had the body off I ordered pre bent feed and return lines in SS. They made the return line in 3/8 and because I do not have a AN flaring tool I spent an extra $15 to have four flairs with fittings on the ends of the fuel lines. The total was only around $30 more than ordering from a typical corvette vender stock lines. This way if I decide to(come up with the money) to go fuel injection I can just easily connect the hoses to my hard lines that run between the body and frame. I will also use a in tank fuel pump. Yes you do not have to lift the body but it will be hard to get the lines protected if not. I also only have rubber lines in two spots, where the hard line connects to the tank and where the hard line connects to the mechanical fuel pump. On the pressure side of the pump there are no rubber lines, all hard line with a modern inline fuel filter that is inexpensive and filters well.
Just remember to think of it as a system. There are many right ways that you can set it up but also many incorrect ways. Good luck and I hope this gives you a bet more to think about so that you can make a well informed decision as to what rout to take.
By the way do not dismiss that the problem could be the carb.

 

Does anybody sell bigger hardlines???. When I bought the car it came with a small elec pump. I think the dude b4 wuz trying to fixer up but never finished for reasons unknown. Also I dont know why he put in aan electric pump. Can you guys let me no how caniI check to see if I have mechanical provisions maybe I.can go that route. Tanxxx u guys

 

I think summit racing has bigger hard lines.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-vgl7006s

 

Does anybody have suggestions on a mechanical fuel pump or can suggest how much gph & max psi (im learning as im going) I should go for. I would really like a chrome pump if possible....

Again you guys tanxxx alot I appreciate it

 

you can look here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1721/overview/ you will need to check if you have the lobe that goes on the end of the cam to make the pump lever go up and down

 

How can I check if I have a cam lobe & if its working properly. I would like to make sure before I buy a mech pump.

Also I checked my car it does have a old mech pump. I took I the pump & base plate off & a metal rod (pushrod I think) dropped out what should I do?? Tanxxx again

 

it sounds like you are ready to go .I would not trust the old pump .it was replaced with the electric because it was bad [maybe]put on new pump run your fuel lines to it you should be fine.

 

Sounds like you are OK for a mechanical pump. The cam lobe is probably fine, if you want to check, disconnect the power lead to the distributor (HEI) or pull the coil wire (other types). You can then bump the engine over without it cranking. Then you check to see that the push rod (put it back in the engine) is pushed down by the cam. It is pushed down by the cam and the fuel pump pushes it back up. Here are a couple of different ways to install the pump.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...k_Chevy_engine
There is a special "S" shaped rubber line that feeds the pump, but with your system being cut up already, you might not need it.

 

a trick to use with the push rod .coat it with wheel bearing grease.then put it in. the grease will help hold it in place.