Aside from the ohm metter thus is how I set the initial timing, watch the intake close, set the timing tab at 18*, point the distributor towards #1.

I also figure you've got them to tight. Loosen them all and readjust them. Common mistake. I adjust the intake valve just as the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust valve just as the intake closes. I usually spin the pushrod and have some one slowly tighten the rocker nut until it becomes harder to spin the pushrod and then set the preload at the manufacturers recommendation, if you don't know there recommendation then set them at a half turn preload. (there are YouTube videos on setting preload or adjusting rocker arms)After I get it to fire up and have gone through the break in procedure for a flat tappet cam in that case, then I'll readjust the rocker arms with the engine running. Hopefully you haven't been detrimental to the camshaft with all the cranking if the engine.

On another note, kudos for having the ***** to undertake this project with only a manual and no experience. Good luck on your project.

 

Thanks! I really hope it works out. I've learned a lot and im happy I started this project. I'll be ecstatic if I get to drive in the dream cruise this year.

 

You can do it. I suggest starting a note book and taking notes when you make any changes, it some times gets a little confusing with all the stuff a guy tries and to remeber it...

 

My 2 cents......find TDC for #1 any way you are comfortable with. Good advice so far here. Pull valve covers and loosen rockers. Mark your balancer every 90 degrees (in four sections) Set #1 valves 1/2 turn after you feel SLIGHT resistance not when it stops turning. 1/2 turnfurther, Tighten down retaining nut. Rotate engine 90 deg til your mark is on timing mark, do #8.....continue through until you complete all 8 cylinders. It will take 2 full rotations. Do your marks need to be exactly 90 deg? No. Is this the optimal setting? No but it will get you to be able to fire the engine and it will run. Things to remember, start at #1 tdc. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation. When you are done, rotor should be pointing at #1 plug tower and wire. Then double and triple check you have your wires and firing order correct.

 

I heard about doing this and it makes complete since but haven't tried it yet.

 

This is an interesting way to do it. I have watched many videos online and I haven't seen this method yet. To be honest everyone seems to have a different take. Ill see if this will work for me though.

Small update checked with compressor. Valve was open. Pulled the valve covers off. For sure they are all tighter than what others have stated before. Got all loose and ready to start to properly tighten them. If it doesn't rain tonight ill get my helper (Wife) to give me an hand and maybe it will start tonight.

 

I d oit this way for initial set up to get it fired. 9 times out of 10 the valves will be a little loose. Big key is if you are using the spin method you stop when you feel the first resistance, light finger pressure on the pushrod.
Also, 1 person job. I turnn the engine over with a socket and breaker bar. Aalways disconnect battery. The hardest part is marking the balancer. I bought a cheap Northern tool magnetic tape measure. Can definiteley use extra hands doint that.
Biggest piece of advice...only make 1 change at a time. Set the valves, test. Change the timing, test. If you do to many changes at once you may have fixed one and knocked another out. I agree with others it sure sounds like the valves were to tight. No comp on 3 cylinders almost for sure.

 

***Update***
So I followed the instructions. And it started! for 30 sec. then wont restart with me holding the throttle most of the wat down. When it does start I get a glug glug sounds. Like if you hold a bottle of air under water and let it fill. or if you ever had roots in your sewer lines and air bubbles come up through the toilet. So progress but not there yet.

 

Sounds like it's flooding. Look the next time you get it start, You need to go through the flat tappet break in procedure or your chances of the camshaft not wiping lobes clean are slim to none, You need to get it started and run it for 30 minutes at different rpms from the 1500 to 3000 rpm's not keeping the rpm constant but above 1500 and below 3000 rpm, some reccomendations are from 2000 to 3000 rpm. So if you get it started again, keep it running and work the throttle watching the tach. I also suggest keeping a fire extinguisher handy. Good luck.

 

be careful when looking down the carb while starting….especially if thinking it is flooding…one nice backfire and your face will be hairless for a while. You can always prop up the carb on some nuts and crank it over without the ignition hooked up…watch under it to see if there is gas dripping without touching it. Assuming you are using a mechanical pump. If it is electric then make sure you are not putting too much pressure to the carb. Anything over 3.5 psi is just too much for a stock carb. The butterflies should be dry when not moving the throttle. Sorry if someone already covered this but did not want him to lose an eye…the hair makes for a good story lol

 

LOL, thanks for the tip. I figured that out when I was testing before I fixed the rockers. A 3ft fireball shot out while I was cranking it. so I wont be looking down that way.

I have a mechanical edelbrock fuel pump and a 750 edelbrock carb. (came with my motor.) I have not had one of there before. I had a few hollys years back. So if anyone has advise on this setup please let me know.

So please excuse my ignorance all of this in totally new to me. Ive never had a new motor before. the procedure that bluedawg laid out for me is after I figure out this fuel issue I would guess since I cant keep it running. Then I should drain the oil and put fresh oil in it? Is there anything else that needs to be done with a new motor besides take it easy for the first few hundred miles?

Again thanks everyone for your help!

 

ok, it sounds like things are getting better and maybe like your timing is too far retarded. Back to basics I always say. You cannot get the engine to run without 3 things. Air, Fuel, and pressure. Just to remove any question I would do a compression test. If you do not have good numbers all the tinkering in the world will not get your engine to work. It only takes an hour or so and there is no chance of breaking anything or catching on fire. The pressures should be within 10 percent of each other and depending on the engine somewhere between 120 and 170 lbs per cylinder. Put in the gauge and crank it until you hear it cycle for 5 times. REad the number and go to another cylinder. If they are all good then mechanically your engine is golden. If the numbers are all low or radically different then you have an internal problem that has to be fixed BEFORE you continue. If this is good then you can go to ignition, timing, and fuel. The Edelbrock carbs are pretty easy plug and play parts and should not be the problem. Make sure you have ALL the vacuum ports blocked off or hooked up correctly…if you are not sure just plug them all until you get the engine running. One other thing to consider….the last two BRAND NEW MSD distributers I bought had bad pickups in them both…one was 130 dollars and the other one was well over 500. They both caused me HUGE headaches and lots of second guessing the problem.

 

I wouldnt sweat changing the oil till after the break in process, change the oil and filter. A lot of folks cut their filter in two and look to see what's in it.

 

Thanks for the info guys ill get to work and have an update tonight or tomorrow.

 

***Update***
compression test show that all cly are 155 ps1 except 6 180 and 8 190. pulled the valve covers and notices the old corvette covers will not work for the stroker motor since the rockers appear to have been hitting the little parts that hang down. will readjust 6 and 8 and get covers that fit better. Then go from ther

 

an old school trick for adjusting the rockers once you get the car running is..if you have an old pair of junky steel covers that are not being used…you can cut a rectangular slot in them from one end to the other so you can adjust the rockers and not make a mess with oil….there are also two piece covers and clips that you can put on the end of the rockers that block the oil holes too…..three ways to adjust the valves after you get it running and keep the mess to a minimum…..if your engine is around 9:1 compression the 155 per cylinder sounds good….180-190 should be for an engine over 11:1….at least you have something for all of them and not one that is at 0…now just need fuel and spark (timing)

 

The three things you need for an engine to run are fuel, spark, and compression. It sounds like you have all three, (compression test results, and a three foot fireball definitely indicates fuel and spark are present!) Now, it's probably just a matter of timing. Gotta get the spark there at just the right time. I've seen people crank the engine with the starter while slowly moving the distributor around until it catches, maybe that's worth a try.

Scott

 

***Update***

The valve covers finally came in and I adjust the rockers just to be sure in the 2 that were off from the rest. I crank the motor and it wont start. I tested the spark and guess what no spark now. Weird!?!? I check the fuses and all connections. Try again a day later. It starts right up. But after 5 min I see smoke. Of course I freak out and shut it down. I had forgot to remove my spark plug tester. It was melting on the header. I pull the tester and put the cable back it. It starts but at a lower rpm then stalls out in 20 sec. After that no spark again. It started raining so I called it a night last night. No idea whats going on at this point.

 

****UPDATE****
I was able to figure out a few things. My choke was closed and was dumping to much gas and flooding the motor. I had vacuum leaks making it idle to high. once that was fixed I broke in the motor as instructed. Did and oil change again. I took it on its first ride to the shop to get the pipes put on yesterday. It defiantly needs tuning and the timing is off but it dove. Now for the bad news. While moving it into the bay at the shop the transmission Drive Shaft Slip Yoke broke. It looks to me my fault that I may have not bolted it in correctly. The guys are doing me a solid and said it wont have to be towed if I can get a one soon. So im on the hunt.