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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 11:26 PM
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Default issue starting---74

Hope someone has had this same issue. try to make it short
car has on occasion not started right after turning it off. won;t even attempt to turn over, just dead. seems to be when driven for 30+ minutes straight (engine hot). thought battery but it tests fine even put on new one and nothing. if it sits overnight no problem it starts seems to maybe be an hour or so and it starts as well (cools down) but nothing before that. put i a new started and no problems until 1.5 weeks later now doing it again. Put on a heat shield on the starter and doesn't help. as soon as i put on a jumper box or another vehicles batter it starts no problem (even if only 2 minutes not the 1.5 hours +.

Any ideas? It is a nightmare to have to keep starting this car when with my wife, she doesn't even want to go in a ride for it for more than 10 minutes.
thanks
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 11:34 PM
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Classic starter heat soak symptoms. Clean all battery cables at the battery, frame ground under the battery, frame to engine ground cable right side under the engine, and connections at the starter. Chances are you need a starter heat shield.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ng-77-vet.html

I have a 74 also. The cables, if I recall correctly, were copper clad aluminum. It takes some effort to replace the positive cable but I was able to do it with the transmission still in the car.

I used a site www.custombatterycables.com measured the old cables and ordered 1/0 sgx for both.

You might get under the car and remove the frame to block ground, clean the frame and block surface with a wire wheel and clean the cables ends and remount. Then repeat this for the battery ground. You could easily add an additional ground at the starter to the frame also to improve the current flow. Adding another or improving the existing starter ground would be my first move.

Good luck. I was totally out of ideas. Replacing the battery cables was the only thing left because I was putting it off.

Last edited by johnt365; Jul 5, 2014 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Classic starter heat soak symptoms. Clean all battery cables at the battery, frame ground under the battery, frame to engine ground cable right side under the engine, and connections at the starter. Chances are you need a starter heat shield.
thanks!
i put a heat shield on already and it didn't help. the cables on the battery are clean and all the connections to the starter are clean as it has a new on on it.
haven't looked at the battery grounds yet. I will try those.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by '75
Classic starter heat soak symptoms. Clean all battery cables at the battery, frame ground under the battery, frame to engine ground cable right side under the engine, and connections at the starter. Chances are you need a starter heat shield.


If you replaced the starter recently, check that you did not reverse the R and S wires connecting to it. I had the same problem and once I wired it correctly, the problem went away.
Fran
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:34 AM
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I replaced both my starter and, more importantly, my fuel pump when my 74 was doing the same thing. At idle, the fuel pump was not generating enough pressure to overcome the fuel percolation that was happening after it ran for awhile then was turned off. I also bought some insulator from Jegg's that covers the hard fuel line from the pump to the transition to rubber lines just before the carb.

My experience, your mileage may vary.

John
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sha2333
thanks!
i put a heat shield on already and it didn't help. the cables on the battery are clean and all the connections to the starter are clean as it has a new on on it.
haven't looked at the battery grounds yet. I will try those.
same problem with mine 74 the seat belt/starter interlock system
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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One thing I have found on my friends 74 was the connector on the drivers side fender wall that has 5 ground wires on it. The heat melted the bake lite material just enough to allow the stud and wires to be loose. His symptoms were similar to yours. I removed the connector and reheated the stud then re-installed in the bake lite (I think it is bake lite). I was able to tighten the wires back down and then all systems worked normal.
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Old Jul 11, 2014 | 03:10 PM
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One other thing. If you replace your starter with a cheap rebuild sometimes the solenoid is marginal. The solenoid can develop a dead spot and nothing happens. The solution is a new good quality AC Delco solenoid.
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Old Jul 11, 2014 | 03:28 PM
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"won;t even attempt to turn over, just dead"
I assume no clicking from the starter either.
this is not Heat soak problem or starter problem.
it is 1974 Starter Interlock circuit Problem.
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Old Jul 12, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sha2333
Hope someone has had this same issue. try to make it short
car has on occasion not started right after turning it off. won;t even attempt to turn over, just dead. seems to be when driven for 30+ minutes straight (engine hot). thought battery but it tests fine even put on new one and nothing. if it sits overnight no problem it starts seems to maybe be an hour or so and it starts as well (cools down) but nothing before that. put i a new started and no problems until 1.5 weeks later now doing it again. Put on a heat shield on the starter and doesn't help. as soon as i put on a jumper box or another vehicles batter it starts no problem (even if only 2 minutes not the 1.5 hours +.

Any ideas? It is a nightmare to have to keep starting this car when with my wife, she doesn't even want to go in a ride for it for more than 10 minutes.
thanks
I had this exact issue with a kit car I owned.... it ended up being a ground issue between the battery and block/starter in my case. The timing being off can also cause the starter to have to work harder once the engine is hot.
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Old Jul 12, 2014 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LudemJo
I replaced both my starter and, more importantly, my fuel pump when my 74 was doing the same thing. At idle, the fuel pump was not generating enough pressure to overcome the fuel percolation that was happening after it ran for awhile then was turned off. I also bought some insulator from Jegg's that covers the hard fuel line from the pump to the transition to rubber lines just before the carb.

My experience, your mileage may vary.

John
I should mention I also had this issue on my air cooled VW kit car. Vapor lock....
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Old Jul 12, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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you have cleaned and verified both Gnd cables in good condition correct?
1.battery to Frame, 2. Motor to Frame
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Old Jul 12, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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When the situation occurs, try jumping the start connections at the solenoid, this bypasses everything in the key circuit. If the car turns over you have a start circuit issue, in my case it was a worn key switch contact, there is an adjustment for this but I replaced the contact block anyway. It could easily be the seat belt lockout if fitted or the transmission lockout (only start in park or neutral) if you have an automatic.
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