Crate Engine recommendations
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
When you buy a crate engine look for a list of manufacturers of the parts used in the build. If none or very few are listed for the major components you can be certain those parts are the cheapest, lowest quality Made in China components available. These crate engines might make the HP listed but for how long? Your stock GM motor lasted 40 years for a reason, quality parts, material and attention to detail. Spending $4000 on a crate engine with no idea who made the critical components in it or what shortcuts in machining, tolerances, material or quality were made to cut costs makes no sense to me.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
Last edited by 63mako; Jul 7, 2014 at 06:36 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
When you buy a crate engine look for a list of manufacturers of the parts used in the build. If none or very few are listed for the major components you can be certain those parts are the cheapest, lowest quality Made in China components available. These crate engines might make the HP listed but for how long? Your stock GM motor lasted 40 years for a reason, quality parts, material and attention to detail. Spending $4000 on a crate engine with no idea who made the critical components in it or what shortcuts in machining, tolerances, material or quality were made to cut costs makes no sense to me.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Your getting a lot for $1500 but not a lot of potential for upgrades. Cast pistons 8.5 to 1 compression, need heads, basically an L48 with 4 bolt mains. The Vortec L31 has 9.4 to 1 compression , hyper pistons, roller cam and lifter setup and heads capable of putting out 400 HP included for about $300-400 more. If 260 HP is enough buy the Goodwrench. If your looking at 350-400 HP on a budget the Vortec long block with a spring and cam upgrade is tough to beat.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
Cast cranks and hyper pistons are fine for 450-500hp and some claim higher....its the high rpms and pounding from turbos or Nos that can tear it apart from what I've always seen. And forged pistons do not always perform as well for street use as the hyper ones... they expand and contract differently and wear differently as well as often cause piston slap.(this is just what I've read many times not from experience)
As far as buying a crate motor and tearing it down anyway?
I'm sorry my take on it is you and have a machine shop prep your block and press on your rods...besides that anyone who can read and watch you tube can learn to assemble while following the rules as long as they have the complete use of their hands and arms.... if your going to remove the heads and cam there isn't much your not tearing apart anyway. I speak from experience here.... I have had more trouble getting my starter shimmed than I had with the whole damn build.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 8, 2014 at 12:04 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
When you buy a crate engine look for a list of manufacturers of the parts used in the build. If none or very few are listed for the major components you can be certain those parts are the cheapest, lowest quality Made in China components available. These crate engines might make the HP listed but for how long? Your stock GM motor lasted 40 years for a reason, quality parts, material and attention to detail. Spending $4000 on a crate engine with no idea who made the critical components in it or what shortcuts in machining, tolerances, material or quality were made to cut costs makes no sense to me.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
FAST, DURABLE, CHEAP. Pick two.
Look at the other crate engines then look at this:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/350_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $1700 more. Yes, it is worth $1700 more. Quality components cost more.
If you want more power look at this: http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php
Yes, it is $4000 more. Yes, it is worth $4000 more. Fully forged, Quality components throughout.
Had a buddy that bought cheap Chinese roller rockers. Ran out of money toward the end of a real nice build. A week later one self destructed and ran crushed needle bearings through his new engine. JUNK engine. You might say "It has a warrantee!" Good luck with that. By the time you pay someone to take it out, ship it back and reinstall your at the cost of a better engine. I will also guarantee they will always, always find it was something you done to negate the warrantee. I been doing this 40 years, the cheap route always cost more long term. That is why I suggested the Vortec long block. All new GM throughout and easy 400 HP for about $3000 after easy mods.
Edelbrock products range from repro cast Weber carbs designed over 50 years ago and now made in china to overpriced stuff stamped with a big old made in the USA on it so they can get it. The same people that tell you only to buy American made are often the same that will tell you to buy a GM branded repro made in Mexico..
The truth is somewhere in the middle that not all top brand stuff is good (or even real anymore) and not all no name stuff is junk. And where its made doesn't always determine junk or quality either... I bought my share of American made junk too.
There are lots of examples of this... auto lite plugs cheap knocks made overseas and in Mexico by many different foreign manufacturers. (Thanks to Mega companies like Honeywell that buy up the us companies and market knockoffs with their name while they close them down.) Frame is garbage yet so many are brainwashed by the marketing they are a top selling brand? Just about all of the worlds camshafts are made in china including most OEM ones sold in new cars. Most cams are made by the same handful of manufacturers and just resold and marketed differently at drastically different prices.
The last and most important thing that's often overlooked is how many of these cars are out there loaded with big name high dollar parts with owners who drive them like and old man and they will never see the north side of 5000rpms let alone get raced? Do they all really need to be forged 6k+ drag cars? There's a big difference between 165-200hp and even 300-350hp at the wheels. Yet most of these threads all end the same way?
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 8, 2014 at 12:38 AM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
I do believe its more about doing your homework than anything.... the summit brand components are all made by other oems that summit sells...
Edelbrock products range from repro cast Weber carbs designed over 50 years ago and now made in china to overpriced stuff stamped with a big old made in the USA on it so they can get it. The same people that tell you only to buy American made are often the same that will tell you to buy a GM branded repro made in Mexico..
The truth is somewhere in the middle that not all top brand stuff is good (or even real anymore) and not all no name stuff is junk. And where its made doesn't always determine junk or quality either... I bought my share of American made junk too.
There are lots of examples of this... auto lite plugs cheap knocks made overseas and in Mexico by many different foreign manufacturers. (Thanks to Mega companies like Honeywell that buy up the us companies and market knockoffs with their name while they close them down.) Frame is garbage yet so many are brainwashed by the marketing they are a top selling brand? Just about all of the worlds camshafts are made in china including most OEM ones sold in new cars. Most cams are made by the same handful of manufacturers and just resold and marketed differently at drastically different prices.
The last and most important thing that's often overlooked is how many of these cars are out there loaded with big name high dollar parts with owners who drive them like and old man and they will never see the north side of 5000rpms let alone get raced? Do they all really need to be forged 6k+ drag cars? There's a big difference between 165-200hp and even 300-350hp at the wheels. Yet most of these threads all end the same way?
Edelbrock products range from repro cast Weber carbs designed over 50 years ago and now made in china to overpriced stuff stamped with a big old made in the USA on it so they can get it. The same people that tell you only to buy American made are often the same that will tell you to buy a GM branded repro made in Mexico..
The truth is somewhere in the middle that not all top brand stuff is good (or even real anymore) and not all no name stuff is junk. And where its made doesn't always determine junk or quality either... I bought my share of American made junk too.
There are lots of examples of this... auto lite plugs cheap knocks made overseas and in Mexico by many different foreign manufacturers. (Thanks to Mega companies like Honeywell that buy up the us companies and market knockoffs with their name while they close them down.) Frame is garbage yet so many are brainwashed by the marketing they are a top selling brand? Just about all of the worlds camshafts are made in china including most OEM ones sold in new cars. Most cams are made by the same handful of manufacturers and just resold and marketed differently at drastically different prices.
The last and most important thing that's often overlooked is how many of these cars are out there loaded with big name high dollar parts with owners who drive them like and old man and they will never see the north side of 5000rpms let alone get raced? Do they all really need to be forged 6k+ drag cars? There's a big difference between 165-200hp and even 300-350hp at the wheels. Yet most of these threads all end the same way?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I do believe its more about doing your homework than anything.... the summit brand components are all made by other oems that summit sells...
Edelbrock products range from repro cast Weber carbs designed over 50 years ago and now made in china to overpriced stuff stamped with a big old made in the USA on it so they can get it. The same people that tell you only to buy American made are often the same that will tell you to buy a GM branded repro made in Mexico..
The truth is somewhere in the middle that not all top brand stuff is good (or even real anymore) and not all no name stuff is junk. And where its made doesn't always determine junk or quality either... I bought my share of American made junk too.
There are lots of examples of this... auto lite plugs cheap knocks made overseas and in Mexico by many different foreign manufacturers. (Thanks to Mega companies like Honeywell that buy up the us companies and market knockoffs with their name while they close them down.) Frame is garbage yet so many are brainwashed by the marketing they are a top selling brand? Just about all of the worlds camshafts are made in china including most OEM ones sold in new cars. Most cams are made by the same handful of manufacturers and just resold and marketed differently at drastically different prices.
The last and most important thing that's often overlooked is how many of these cars are out there loaded with big name high dollar parts with owners who drive them like and old man and they will never see the north side of 5000rpms let alone get raced? Do they all really need to be forged 6k+ drag cars? There's a big difference between 165-200hp and even 300-350hp at the wheels. Yet most of these threads all end the same way?
Edelbrock products range from repro cast Weber carbs designed over 50 years ago and now made in china to overpriced stuff stamped with a big old made in the USA on it so they can get it. The same people that tell you only to buy American made are often the same that will tell you to buy a GM branded repro made in Mexico..
The truth is somewhere in the middle that not all top brand stuff is good (or even real anymore) and not all no name stuff is junk. And where its made doesn't always determine junk or quality either... I bought my share of American made junk too.
There are lots of examples of this... auto lite plugs cheap knocks made overseas and in Mexico by many different foreign manufacturers. (Thanks to Mega companies like Honeywell that buy up the us companies and market knockoffs with their name while they close them down.) Frame is garbage yet so many are brainwashed by the marketing they are a top selling brand? Just about all of the worlds camshafts are made in china including most OEM ones sold in new cars. Most cams are made by the same handful of manufacturers and just resold and marketed differently at drastically different prices.
The last and most important thing that's often overlooked is how many of these cars are out there loaded with big name high dollar parts with owners who drive them like and old man and they will never see the north side of 5000rpms let alone get raced? Do they all really need to be forged 6k+ drag cars? There's a big difference between 165-200hp and even 300-350hp at the wheels. Yet most of these threads all end the same way?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
The L31 vortec long block I linked is $1800. You can buy a GM Roller cam, LS6 springs and a GM intake for it and have an all new GM assembly 350 - 400 HP for around $3000 if you pay someone to assemble it. This is not a forged $6000 drag motor. Neither is the first Ultrastreet link. Or you can buy a $3000 Ebay crate or an assembly line crate engine builders .040 over used block full of knockoff parts, your call. Buy what you want, just trying to give the OP some options like he asked for. My experience with cheap knockoff parts has not been good.
For example pro comp heads.... they used to be really poor quality but research shows that the complaints are almost all very old and those who have bought them in recent years have really gotten their moneys worth. They don't perform out of the box like $2,000 heads but they are half that and still can make 400hp fine. that bothers some people for some reason and I don't know why?
Same with intakes... many magazines have done comparisons and found the brands other than the most recognized (edelbrock) all perform about the same for what they are. The water pump I bought from skip white is very good quality and he explained why it was better than many out there. He actually takes the time to test the stuff he sells and weed out the stuff that doesn't perform.
Or he could buy a decent set of 64cc heads, a hydraulic flat tappet cam like a 262 or 268 grind and some 30 over flat top hyper pistons and rings take his old engine to a machine shop after unbolting everything from the block except the lower end.... and he can have them rebuild it for about $800-1,000 with his parts and then he can bolt his heads on and go after checking with the shop with questions he might have and have an engine that he won't have to tear into again to make the power he wants...
The other option is look on Craigslist at the engines for sale.... I know many are Leary about buying stuff from there but there are often a lot of shop owners of experienced engine builders on there selling... contact one of them and ask about working with them to build and install an engine after visiting with them and making sure they are up to the task.... there are tons of experienced guys out there willing to help and make a couple bucks doing it...its fun for them just like helping out here.
I find almost new crate mothers on Craigslist all the time some are still in the cars waiting to be pulled for a new stroker or big block...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Anyone have experience with http://paceperformance.com/i-8396354...rear-seal.html
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 299
From: New York
I have heard so many issues with rebuilds then with crate motors made by GM. I have a ZZ4 base tweaked and massaged the top end and have slightly less then 500hp .. The motor is stout , solid and a better buy then a rebuilt.
Maybe it is me but a huge manufacture using all new parts should be able to build a better motor then a shop doing rebuilds. People can argue or pick sides all they want and in the end i have yet to here people say stay away from GM crate , yet I have over and over and over seen posted and been told to stay away from so and so machine shop..
Maybe it is me but a huge manufacture using all new parts should be able to build a better motor then a shop doing rebuilds. People can argue or pick sides all they want and in the end i have yet to here people say stay away from GM crate , yet I have over and over and over seen posted and been told to stay away from so and so machine shop..
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
Amorget you along with the other posters here seem to be pretty knowledgeable, I would like to hear your advice on getting a 300hp/350 ft-lb torque motor. That is what I want, I'll leave it to the younger guys to tear up the pavement with the 400+hp builds. A rebuilt L48 was put in my '77 many miles ago (by the PO) and another rebuild is not a reasonable option.
Since I will need the car to pass smog here in California my options are limited. If you look at my punch list in the previous email, the 260hp Goodwrench is legal because it is a standard replacement for my car. The smog tech will have no clue that the cam has been switched and everything else will look stock except for the headers (legal - comes with a sticker and an "EO number"), and the dual exhaust. I could get dinged for the DE, if so I'll have to go back to stock but maybe he won't notice. I know someone who has gotten away with that one.
As I mentioned before i have not started this project but will soon, let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Jim
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
I don't really see what you mean here? Its 405hp.
Cast cranks and hyper pistons are fine for 450-500hp and some claim higher....its the high rpms and pounding from turbos or Nos that can tear it apart from what I've always seen. And forged pistons do not always perform as well for street use as the hyper ones... they expand and contract differently and wear differently as well as often cause piston slap.(this is just what I've read many times not from experience)
As far as buying a crate motor and tearing it down anyway?
I'm sorry my take on it is you and have a machine shop prep your block and press on your rods...besides that anyone who can read and watch you tube can learn to assemble while following the rules as long as they have the complete use of their hands and arms.... if your going to remove the heads and cam there isn't much your not tearing apart anyway. I speak from experience here.... I have had more trouble getting my starter shimmed than I had with the whole damn build.
Cast cranks and hyper pistons are fine for 450-500hp and some claim higher....its the high rpms and pounding from turbos or Nos that can tear it apart from what I've always seen. And forged pistons do not always perform as well for street use as the hyper ones... they expand and contract differently and wear differently as well as often cause piston slap.(this is just what I've read many times not from experience)
As far as buying a crate motor and tearing it down anyway?
I'm sorry my take on it is you and have a machine shop prep your block and press on your rods...besides that anyone who can read and watch you tube can learn to assemble while following the rules as long as they have the complete use of their hands and arms.... if your going to remove the heads and cam there isn't much your not tearing apart anyway. I speak from experience here.... I have had more trouble getting my starter shimmed than I had with the whole damn build.
Last edited by Jim__H; Jul 10, 2014 at 12:55 AM. Reason: add clarity
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 730
Likes: 37
From: Catoosa Okla
It's about $1700 over budget, but since it's the wife's fault, she should gladly pay the difference. Talk about a beast...http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...27485/10002/-1
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Ridge NY
Pace Performance crate engine
Just installed a Pace Performance 350-300hp crate engine. Built from a new GM block with a Lunati cam. Did the break in and now starting to drive her around. So far, so good. Don't forget to budget about twice what the engine cost for "extras" as you go. Once the engine is out you'll be replacing or rebuilding or repainting everything in and around that engine. Ask me how I know..
Last edited by jfurcht; Jul 10, 2014 at 07:06 AM. Reason: additional info
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 2
From: Seguin TX
It's about $1700 over budget, but since it's the wife's fault, she should gladly pay the difference. Talk about a beast...http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...27485/10002/-1
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
I would check with local machine shops. Many of them advertise engines they already have build for some reason or another on Craigslist as well as small shops that are doing motor swaps. There are a lot of low mileage almost new crate engines that are already built up on there in my area. People often buy someone else's project car or decide they want to swap in a big block and they just want the old engine gone cheap. If you have a friend who's fairly knowledgeable on engines it doesn't hurt to bring him along when checking out the engines on Craigslist as there is just as much junk as there is great finds...
I seen a complete 78 L82 engine with 37,000 miles sell on Craigslist last year in 3 hrs for $300.00..... the owner got hit and the car was totaled.... he kept the engine then decided to sell it.
About a month ago there was a new 383 for 1,700 from a machine shop that got stuck with it from a non paying customer...
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 2
From: Seguin TX
Once you get more horsepower you are going to drive them harder and get a heavier foot so the main thing is making sure whatever you get has a good warranty and from a reputable source that will handle a warranty if needed. Shipping alone will eat you alive if you have problems so select wisely. Have you talked to a local machine shop to see what they can offer you because they can build you an engine just like the crates and they are local.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
Just installed a Pace Performance 350-300hp crate engine. Built from a new GM block with a Lunati cam. Did the break in and now starting to drive her around. So far, so good. Don't forget to budget about twice what the engine cost for "extras" as you go. Once the engine is out you'll be replacing or rebuilding or repainting everything in and around that engine. Ask me how I know..
http://tinyurl.com/pcwjqs4
looks very interesting, definitely worth a call to get more details. The first questions I have is how much vacuum it generates and I am little nervous about the 9.5:1 CR and pinging with the cast iron heads but the ad says it will run on 91 octane.
augiedoggie, I did check a couple of good local machine shops and their pricing was pretty high. One of them actually had what you describe, an engine that they had built up and the intended project fell through. But the guy was unable to give me some of the details on it, I don't know if he couldn't, wouldn't, or didn't remember but either way I decided to pass. I want to know exactly what I am getting for my money.
And yes I am fully aware of all the little costs that are going to add up. My car needs a bunch of other stuff as well, that is why I need to keep the engine costs to around $2K. That Pace engine might fit right in...
Thanks to all,
Jim
Last edited by Jim__H; Jul 10, 2014 at 10:58 AM. Reason: fix typo
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 1,116
From: North tonawanda NY
jfurcht, which one did you buy? This one:
http://tinyurl.com/pcwjqs4
looks very interesting, definitely worth a call to get more details. The first questions I have is how much vacuum it generates and I am little nervous about the 9.5:1 CR and pinging with the cast iron heads but the ad says it will run on 91 octane.
augiedoggie, I did check a couple of good local machine shops and their pricing was pretty high. One of them actually had what you describe, an engine that they had built up and the intended project fell through. But the guy was unable to give me some of the details on it, I don't know if he couldn't, wouldn't, or didn't remember but either way I decided to pass. I want to know exactly what I am getting for my money.
And yes I am fully aware of all the little costs that are going to add up. My car needs a bunch of other stuff as well, that is why I need to keep the engine costs to around $2K. That Pace engine might fit right in...
Thanks to all,
Jim
http://tinyurl.com/pcwjqs4
looks very interesting, definitely worth a call to get more details. The first questions I have is how much vacuum it generates and I am little nervous about the 9.5:1 CR and pinging with the cast iron heads but the ad says it will run on 91 octane.
augiedoggie, I did check a couple of good local machine shops and their pricing was pretty high. One of them actually had what you describe, an engine that they had built up and the intended project fell through. But the guy was unable to give me some of the details on it, I don't know if he couldn't, wouldn't, or didn't remember but either way I decided to pass. I want to know exactly what I am getting for my money.
And yes I am fully aware of all the little costs that are going to add up. My car needs a bunch of other stuff as well, that is why I need to keep the engine costs to around $2K. That Pace engine might fit right in...
Thanks to all,
Jim
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 10, 2014 at 11:43 AM.