Not the blueprint engine, the GM performance long block. Pace added the Lunati cam to bring it up to the advertised 300hp. It was under $2000
with shipping.

 

So...this one? http://tinyurl.com/o2u62ku

Unless I am missing something I am not sure I believe the 300hp with the only difference being the cam from the base 260 hp motor.

 

Now that I am getting close to kicking this project off and thinking about what you said earlier I am going to see if I can find some local options for getting a better package than the 260 hp Goodwrench and mods. I don't like the heads on that engine. Not much on craigslist at the moment though but I am in no hurry. I may also take my block in and see if there it has any potential at all. It has already been bored out .040" and the walls are as shiny as mirrors. Also the crank was not true, it was rotating kind of like a jump rope, the inner bearings were worn to the bronze and the two outer ones were not. Made a thumping sound when it ran.

Maybe I'll get lucky and find something to work with, if anyone is in the SF Bay Area and sees something, let me know.

 

The Cam is the heart of the engine it controls the timing of everything. It can make a huge difference...Some can increase dynamic compression and some can bleed it off.
You can easily get larger HP numbers by swapping it out but at the same time you can easily hurt the actual power output in the actual rpm range you would use most on the street. There are a lot of guys that just don't get it and stick the biggest cam they can in the engine only to find out that 450hp at 6500rpm cost them a lot of torque and HP down in the actual range where they would feel and use it most in all situations except when flying at 6,000+ rpm. This is also why if the average person drove two identical vettes except one being an L48 and the other being an L82 that person would mistake the L48 for the stronger L82 because the L48 starts making power sooner and has more torque which throws you back in the seat. Basically everything is a trade off as you can tune it to make more power but at a cost somewhere else like torque at lower rpms and vs versa... things like increasing displacement and better flow are solutions around it this limitation to a point.

You have to make sure the cam you select is a good match for your gearing and stall/ torque converter. If not you will have a 400 HP slug that can't get out of its own way until it finally gets to 50-60 MPH.

Differences like forged vs cast components mean nothing for actual power output but they do have a correlation to it because if your building a 500+HP engine that's going to be spinning 6500+ rpm you want a stronger rotating assembly that will take the beating and hold together...
Too many people mistake this and it is recommended all to often that everyone always spend the extra money on a forged steel crank and forged rods and pistons instead of cast of hyper pistons when in reality its waay overboard for most of the applications its suggested for here.... someonelooking for a little extra power comes here and 15 posts later he's been convinced by others he needs to drop 4-8k on a performance racing engine for he Sunday driver...

 

Its way too easy to get carried away. I'd rather spend the money where I can feel it in the seat of my pants and still be driveable and reliable.

 

I would check with Shark Racer 1st as he also has a C3 that is currently doing an engine swap.

Keep in mind to pass the visual all aftermarket parts must have a CARB number. Not all create motors also have all the nesscary smog components. I installed a ZZ3 some time back and it didn't have the passages for the EGR.

If you are looking for a block see if Mean Street Fabrication has any from the many LSx swaps they do. He is in San Carlos and has a bunch of engines stacked in the corner.

 

That's why I went with a howards roller cam-.525/.525, 219/225 duration LSA 110-Operating range-1,500-5,600 RPM-with the AFR 180 CC 64 CC heads with 9:1 pistons. Pulls like a freight train from 2,000-5,500 RPM. SO MUCH MORE POWERFUL than the OEM L-82 with a 4 speed and 3.70 gears!!!

Much of the bottom end of the OEM L-82 was retained-forged rods, forged crank, bored .030, L-82 aluminum intake, OEM distributor etc-all number match. Probably a little more expensive than a crate motor and a ton more work to keep it original but the 355 L-82 rocks now-$6K all in with new everything and some-new motor mounts, oil pump, fuel pump, clutch kit, resurface oem flywheel etc .

 

Our 1982 vette had 107,000 plus miles. It became unreliable and so we stopped driving it. When starting, it wouldn't even idle any more. So I had a GM ZZ4 long block installed by a friend. I retained the original (rebuilt) 700R4 trans. Installed a new, true dual exhaust from Summit Racing with a Holley 670 carb. This engine is rated at 355 HP. Still working the bugs out of it due to the computer being disconnected and some of the other things not being able to be reconnected. This is my wife's car. We are original owners. Very pleased with the new engine.

 

ddawson;
Shark Racer lives near me and we talk on a regular basis, in fact I bought a ZZ4 manifold from him. It has all the same ports and connections as the original and since I plan to hook everything up and paint it orange I don't think the smog tech will notice. They are not required to check casting numbers. The Hedman 68301 comes with an EO sticker, I think the only thing that might not fly is the dual exhaust but I am willing to take a chance on that. I may have to switch to stock though if it doesn't.

As for where I am at now, augiedoggy got me to thinking about other options and right now I am thinking of buying a short block and staying with my old 882 heads which as far as I know are still good. That will free up some of the budget for a 700 R4 tranny. I still think I can get my 300hp by going this way.

Thanks for the tip on Mean Street, they are only 5 miles from where I work. I will check them out. There is also a "machine shop" that is all over craigslist advertising short blocks for around $1000 but I have not looked into that as yet. Here is the link:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/4560833220.html

If any SF Bay Area locals have any experience with them I would appreciate some feedback. I hope it is ok to put that link up, I don't see anything prohibiting it but don't want to violate any forum vendor rules, still kinda new around here.

 

This depends on where the car resides...