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Question for those who know more than I do, which includes everybody and everybody. I plan to keep the original 10 ohm radio but want to upgrade the speakers (don't need to be in-dash). I understand that I cannot use the modern 4 ohm speakers, however a tech at Crutchfield just told me that if I run the radio thru an amp (which is 4 ohms) to the speakers, I can use the 4 ohm speakers, in which case I have my choice of speakers. Is this advice correct? Thanks for any help/suggestions.
Hi, The advice is mostly right , but depends on the AMP.
Many AMP's can accept a low voltage RCA pre-amp signal OR a powered signal. Your radio, even at 10 ohms, is still a powered signal so make sure you get an AMP that has the 'powered input' option, not just the RCA pre-amp connection. Then, you can connect the modern 4-ohm speakers to the outputs intuitively.
Another crazy option is to add a bunch more speakers.
If you wire two modern 4-ohm speakers in a daisy-chain (series configuration) it makes 8 ohms. If you take another two modern 4-ohm speakers and wire them side-by-side ( parallel configuration ) it reduces their resistance to 2 ohms. If you take the first set of 2 and wire them in series with the second set of two, you get 10 ohms.
Assuming your dash head unit is stereo that would mean 4 speakers total for the left side, and another 4 for the right. 8 speakers total that you could find clever places to mount throughout the car.
The volume of such a configuration won't be rock concert level since the head unit is not so modern, but it works.
Hi, The advice is mostly right , but depends on the AMP.
Many AMP's can accept a low voltage RCA pre-amp signal OR a powered signal. Your radio, even at 10 ohms, is still a powered signal so make sure you get an AMP that has the 'powered input' option, not just the RCA pre-amp connection. Then, you can connect the modern 4-ohm speakers to the outputs intuitively.
Another crazy option is to add a bunch more speakers.
If you wire two modern 4-ohm speakers in a daisy-chain (series configuration) it makes 8 ohms. If you take another two modern 4-ohm speakers and wire them side-by-side ( parallel configuration ) it reduces their resistance to 2 ohms. If you take the first set of 2 and wire them in series with the second set of two, you get 10 ohms.
Assuming your dash head unit is stereo that would mean 4 speakers total for the left side, and another 4 for the right. 8 speakers total that you could find clever places to mount throughout the car.
The volume of such a configuration won't be rock concert level since the head unit is not so modern, but it works.
Thanks very much. That is extremely helpful. I think I'll go with option 1, because I'm not creative enough to find places for 8 speakers, unless I turn it into a stretch Corvette.
Thank you. I am familiar with them but I am not sure how much of an upgrade they are. Also, joesclassiccarradio.com but similarly don't know anything about the quality.
Thanks for the response.
Thank you. I am familiar with them but I am not sure how much of an upgrade they are. Also, joesclassiccarradio.com but similarly don't know anything about the quality.
Thanks for the response.
What Hyteck said- or you can buy a "low level to line adapter" - less than $15. Will take the speaker level and convert it to a preamp level RCA jacks. Then you can use any amp.
Here's the problem- Garbage in- Garbage out. Unfortunately that old radio is not really going to sound any better even if you hook up some really really nice speakers....And the amplifier will just make the sound louder not better,
I'd just keep it simple and go w/ the 10Ω speakers...
What Hyteck said- or you can buy a "low level to line adapter" - less than $15. Will take the speaker level and convert it to a preamp level RCA jacks. Then you can use any amp.
Here's the problem- Garbage in- Garbage out. Unfortunately that old radio is not really going to sound any better even if you hook up some really really nice speakers....And the amplifier will just make the sound louder not better,
I'd just keep it simple and go w/ the 10Ω speakers...
Richard
Richard, I can tell you from personal experience that that is simply not a true statement. I believe you that it used to be true, but technology has finally caught up. I installed a 300W amp that neatly fits under the OE radio chassis in the console, and top of the line Alpine SPR-69 speakers (no others will fit in the factory 6x9 mount); 4x6 Polks in the front. When you use a cassette adapter ($10) and hook it to your iPod it sounds incredible. My wife and I cannot get over it. You hear all the nuances in the music. The main trade-off is that the radio reception, even though it is the original equipment electronic tuner model, it does not hold a station quite as good as a modern day radio - and, the separation is not quite as good, but you can definitely hear the separation on sounds produced with front to back and left to right arrangements - including, even in the 70's and 80's music that we thoroughly enjoy. But, I am so glad that I did it, exceeding my every hope from a sound quality, and stock packaging standpoint. I just have to get my front-to-rear fade function to work now, and by installing the Hi-to-low wire converter to RCA plugs I am told by a fellow forum brother that that will take care of that, too.
Dave
Richard, I can tell you from personal experience that that is simply not a true statement. I believe you that it used to be true, but technology has finally caught up. I installed a 300W amp that neatly fits under the OE radio chassis in the console, and top of the line Alpine SPR-69 speakers (no others will fit in the factory 6x9 mount); 4x6 Polks in the front. When you use a cassette adapter ($10) and hook it to your iPod it sounds incredible. My wife and I cannot get over it. You hear all the nuances in the music. The main trade-off is that the radio reception, even though it is the original equipment electronic tuner model, it does not hold a station quite as good as a modern day radio - and, the separation is not quite as good, but you can definitely hear the separation on sounds produced with front to back and left to right arrangements - including, even in the 70's and 80's music that we thoroughly enjoy. But, I am so glad that I did it, exceeding my every hope from a sound quality, and stock packaging standpoint. I just have to get my front-to-rear fade function to work now, and by installing the Hi-to-low wire converter to RCA plugs I am told by a fellow forum brother that that will take care of that, too.
Dave
Dave
I plan to use Polk speakers and a Polk amp. I don't think that the original radio is that bad and at this point I don't want to invest heavily in the audio in a car that rarely gets driven. When I do drive, however I want to hear the radio at least as well as I hear the headers. If this was my daily driver I would spend more on the audio. If, after changing the speakers and adding the amp, I am not satisfied with the sound quality I can always add a head unit in a different location, while still leaving the original am/fm/cb for appearances. Just won't be "secretaudio" which in theory is a great idea, but has received poor reviews. I don't think I'm closing any doors by doing the speakers and amp first.
Richard, I can tell you from personal experience that that is simply not a true statement. I believe you that it used to be true, but technology has finally caught up. I installed a 300W amp that neatly fits under the OE radio chassis in the console, and top of the line Alpine SPR-69 speakers (no others will fit in the factory 6x9 mount); 4x6 Polks in the front. When you use a cassette adapter ($10) and hook it to your iPod it sounds incredible. My wife and I cannot get over it. You hear all the nuances in the music. The main trade-off is that the radio reception, even though it is the original equipment electronic tuner model, it does not hold a station quite as good as a modern day radio - and, the separation is not quite as good, but you can definitely hear the separation on sounds produced with front to back and left to right arrangements - including, even in the 70's and 80's music that we thoroughly enjoy. But, I am so glad that I did it, exceeding my every hope from a sound quality, and stock packaging standpoint. I just have to get my front-to-rear fade function to work now, and by installing the Hi-to-low wire converter to RCA plugs I am told by a fellow forum brother that that will take care of that, too.
Dave
Dave
Ummm...FWIW -I'm the fellow forum member that recommended the line level... Did you try just the positive speaker leads of the radio- since the speaker's negative is common w/ the radios ground?
Ummm...FWIW -I'm the fellow forum member that recommended the line level... Did you try just the positive speaker leads of the radio- since the speaker's negative is common w/ the radios ground?
I have some personal experience...mostly professional dealing w/ Car Audio for 20 years.... Glad it worked out for you.
Richard
You're one of the original good guys. I really appreciated your insights.
I'll let you know what I find when I get back from an upcoming trip and will have a chance to go back into the console/radio (btw, do you know who sells those radio **** nut removal tool?)
Regarding the common ground, the rear speakers are mounted in plastic and not grounded to the body. Will that make any difference?
You're one of the original good guys. I really appreciated your insights.
I'll let you know what I find when I get back from an upcoming trip and will have a chance to go back into the console/radio (btw, do you know who sells those radio **** nut removal tool?)
Regarding the common ground, the rear speakers are mounted in plastic and not grounded to the body. Will that make any difference?
We made the "tool" - a deep well socket and a grinder.
As far as the ground- speaker negatives- I'm just talking about the head unit or Radio.
An amplifier (very few exceptions) will not work if the negative speaker lead is grounded- or using the chassis ground.
Older radios were 'common ground'- newer ones 'floating ground.'
Tho determine what type you have-
Make sure the Radio off. Set the meter to ohms. Touch the black probe to the metal case of the Radio and the red probe to the negative speaker wires. If you read anything near 0 ohms, the head unit has a common ground.
The original Delco radio had "common" grounds for the head unit and speakers; all of them could be tied together and routed to chassis/battery ground.
Newer head units need a 'chassis ground' for the head unit; but the speakers are 'floating' units and the negative connection should NOT be routed to ground or tied to each other.
If you keep the Delco head unit and feed newer speakers directly, all negative connections should be tie collectively.
If you feed the Delco head into a modern amp unit, the amp will have a chassis ground wire; but the speakers will have + and - wires coming from the amp and the negative speaker connections will NOT be tied to chassis ground.
The original Delco radio had "common" grounds for the head unit and speakers; all of them could be tied together and routed to chassis/battery ground.
Newer head units need a 'chassis ground' for the head unit; but the speakers are 'floating' units and the negative connection should NOT be routed to ground or tied to each other.
If you keep the Delco head unit and feed newer speakers directly, all negative connections should be tie collectively.
If you feed the Delco head into a modern amp unit, the amp will have a chassis ground wire; but the speakers will have + and - wires coming from the amp and the negative speaker connections will NOT be tied to chassis ground.
Will be installing orig radio and new 8/10 speakers just purchased.
Will provide feed back.
Thanks
Max
You're one of the original good guys. I really appreciated your insights.
I'll let you know what I find when I get back from an upcoming trip and will have a chance to go back into the console/radio (btw, do you know who sells those radio **** nut removal tool?)
Regarding the common ground, the rear speakers are mounted in plastic and not grounded to the body. Will that make any difference?
Is this the tool you're looking for? Hollow socket clears adjustment lever. 1/4" square drive. 7/16" diameter on drive end; 9/16" diameter on socket end. 2 5/16" long. Nickel/chrome finish. Services some GM and Ford cars. http://store.snapon.com/Mirror-and-R...t-P636323.aspx
Purchased mine more than 40 years ago and now I only get to use it on my "old" Corvette.