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Fan and wiring issues.

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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 03:33 PM
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Default Fan and wiring issues.

I have been trying to un-fusker the issues a PO caused on my 76.

I pulled the main wiring harness, checked and labled every wire and rewrapped it.
Found out the PO clipped off 3 sockets from the center guage cluster. Only the grey ones remain. Does anyone know where I can get new ones other than corvettecentral?

The PO installed a new radiator and dual electric fans. The fans have a black wire (ground) hooked to the support and a red wire tailing off to nowhere. Where should this wire be hooked into?
Im assuming the fan relay somewhere but I dont know where the relay is.

Found another wire dangling. Its connected to the drivers side of the transmission (automatic). Whats it for and where does it go?

Lastly, a plug was hanging down from the engine side wiring harness. It has continuity with the "gauges" fuse. I think its for the low brake warning switch but I dont know where it plugs in.

I am partially colorblind so wiring is always a PITA for me.


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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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The unknown 'brake sensor' plugs into the brake distribution block which is on the frame below the booster.

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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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[QUOTE=Peterbuilt;1587375377]The unknown 'brake sensor' plugs into the brake distribution block which is on the frame below the booster.

thank you.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Not sure if the dual fan system is working or not but you may want to just make a new fan circuit . Here is what I did to redo a dual fan system on my 460 ford ranchero that the PO had cobled together: Get a cole hersee 24059 constant duty marine solenoid from amazon for around $10(or pay $30-50 from a marine store). If your passenger side head does not have a temp sensor that triggers the solenoid/relay when the temp gets to 190 purchase one from rodneydick.com or other source. Wire this with a 12gauge wire to one of the smaller threaded studs on the 24059. Run a 12v switched 12 gauge wire to the other smaller threaded terminal on the 24059. Run an 8 gauge wire from the pos terminal stud on the back of the alternator to one of the large terminals on the 24059, this is your power "in" . On the other power out terminal run two 10 gauge wires, one to each fan, properly fused of course. Make sure you have each fan grounded properly. The 24059 is rated at 80 amps so should work just fine. I also added a manual toggle switch in case I wanted to turn the fans at will.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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The fans work.

I have a capped wire someone spliced into the alternator hot. used it to test, Problem is its always hot and I dont want to have to remember to hit a toggle every time I turn the car off.

Since I have a 12V hot, Whats the relay I need for wiring the 12V to the fan and having it triggered by the temp sensor (mine is in the manifold).
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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The wire down to the transmission could be the kick-down wire for the th-400 trans. )I think 76 had the th-350 standard and the th-400 optional ???)

If so, it should have a switch under the dash activated by the gas pedal which is where that wire should end up

M
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
The wire down to the transmission could be the kick-down wire for the th-400 trans. )I think 76 had the th-350 standard and the th-400 optional ???)

If so, it should have a switch under the dash activated by the gas pedal which is where that wire should end up

M
Thanks. I will jack her up and get the numbers from my tranny tommorrow.

Got the brake connector done.

Grabbed a Hayden 3647 fan controller from the LPS and got it almost done before I ran out of light. Hooked main 12V up to the battery, Ground to the frame. Deciding where I want to pull my other 12V from. It needs to be supplied only when the key is in the ON position, so im thinking the ACCY terminal from the fuse box.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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Pan shape will tell you what trans is in there




If it is the th400, the connection will be on the drivers side, just above the shift cable



This pic is from a 72 so it has two wires going into it (the other wire is for the tcs system, yours wouldn't have that wire)

M
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 05:52 PM
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Thanks everyone.
I got the brake pressure switch hooked back up.
Installed and adjusted a new fan controler.

What does a kickdown switch do? I didnt see one on the gas petal assembly when I had everything torn out. Im going to dig through the AIM and find the part number so I can replace it.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by drkness01
Thanks everyone.
I got the brake pressure switch hooked back up.
Installed and adjusted a new fan controler.

What does a kickdown switch do? I didnt see one on the gas petal assembly when I had everything torn out. Im going to dig through the AIM and find the part number so I can replace it.
Still assuming it is the kickdown... (did you check to see if it was a th350 or th400?) look at the shape of the pan, square with one corner missing is a 350, really weird shape is the 500
The kickdown is what causes the trans to jump from 3rd to 2nd when you press the gas right to the floor, think passing gear.

The TH400 had an electric kick-down, the TH350 had a mechanical cable (runs under the gas cable to the carb)
Vaguely looks like this, (the lower cable)




Switch up at the gas pedal has a plastic leg sticking out that is pushed along by the upper part of the arm (above the pivot) that the pedal is attached to
Again, vaguely like this



M

Last edited by Mooser; Jul 17, 2014 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by drkness01

What does a kickdown switch do? I didnt see one on the gas petal assembly when I had everything torn out. Im going to dig through the AIM and find the part number so I can replace it.

It makes it when you press on the gas pedal darn near all the way..it activates this switch so it will drop a gear (3rd to 2nd..for example)...for 'passing'...when on the interstate or wherever.
What type of automatic transmission do you have???? I think it should be a TH350.....and if it is...there is a kickdown cable mounted so it can attach to the carburetor.

If it is a TH400... then there will be a 'kickdown' switch mounted on the accelerator pedal mounting at the top near the firewall. And you will have a vacuum line going to the passenger side of the transmission at the bottom...just above the pan.

If it is a TH350 It will not have this kickdown switch for the purpose for the 'kickdown' feature of the transmission...but this same switch also activates the flapper in your hood for fresh air when you have the gas pedal to the floor.

DUB
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Still assuming it is the kickdown... (did you check to see if it was a th350 or th400?) look at the shape of the pan, square with one corner missing is a 350, really weird shape is the 500
The kickdown is what causes the trans to jump from 3rd to 2nd when you press the gas right to the floor, think passing gear.

The TH400 had an electric kick-down, the TH350 had a mechanical cable (runs under the gas cable to the carb)
Vaguely looks like this, (the lower cable)



Switch up at the gas pedal has a plastic leg sticking out that is pushed along by the upper part of the arm (above the pivot) that the pedal is attached to
Again, vaguely like this


M
The pan looks like a th400. No sign of the switch. It has the spots for mounting but the PO must have pulled it out.

As long as were on the subject of transmisions ... Whats the vaccum line on the passenger side for?
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by drkness01
The pan looks like a th400. No sign of the switch. It has the spots for mounting but the PO must have pulled it out.

As long as were on the subject of transmisions ... Whats the vaccum line on the passenger side for?
Since there's no computer or anything in these old transmissions, they shifted using hyd pressure and the vacuum is mainly used to control where/when the shift points happen and are semi-tied to the engine load. If the engine is working (revving), low vacuum, gears are held longer before up-shifting, if the engine isn't working hard, more vacuum, shifts sooner.
Maybe overly simplified but basically that's what it's for.

M
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