Got a great deal on a retro hyd roller cam and lifters through Motorhead and decided to pony up the $. Would like to know what I need/should do to keep the cam from walking. Crane recomends a retainer and it states machining may be required. Can I just use a cam button or similar retainer to keep the cam in place without maching? This engine will not see over 6000 rpms if that helps.

Thanks

 

Cam button and lockplate. I recommend the roller bearing type button over the solid type. Crane makes a nice unit. I would also recommend ponying up a few bucks for a Moroso timing cover. They seem to be stamped from a slightly thicker material than OEM and there is a "Y"-shaped reinforcement spot-welded in specifically for the cam button. Also, set your cam's end play according to manufacturers spec by dimpling the timing cover rather than by removing material from the button itself. This will require several test-fittings, but it's the right way to do it.

 

I went with the Cloyes cast aluminum roller button timing cover. You should also use the best chains made. High quality chains are so ridged that they help hold the cam in place. You really only have cam forward thrust when you use Magneto type distributers that put a higher load on the rear drive gear.

 

Thanks Dude and gkull

So the roller buttom is already attached to the timing cover? Sounds like the way to go, no muss no fuss. Also will look into a new timing chain set. Can't remember the brand of my current one but I am sure is was a low $ two row set not to be confussed with a true double roller.

Thanks


[Modified by Fevre, 12:30 PM 7/25/2002]


[Modified by Fevre, 12:31 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Cloyes is Allen adjustable from the front cover so you never have to pull it off. Are you running some type of high volume water pump?

 

I believe it is has a brand name of National but I can double check. I checked out the cloyes cover on the summit web site, is the one your talking about?

'Easy access to your cam.

Chevrolet: 262-400, two piece, satin finish, aluminum, timing cover


This Cloyes two piece timing cover has a removable center plate with an O-ring seal to allow easy access to your cam for changing timing or adjusting cam end play. Precision machined from die-cast aluminum for sure sealing, this cover fits small block Chevrolet engines with most water pumps and timing sets.'

$91.95

Unless it has the button built in, which it does not state, i will probably go with the Milidon gold irradated one to match my oil pan and get the summit block protector:


Here's the crane needle bearing cam button spacer:

Even cheaper than the summit block protector. $10 But not sure how to intall.





[Modified by Fevre, 1:07 PM 7/25/2002]

 

I'm not familiar with that cover, but I think that it has an adjustable stop which contacts the cam button. The cam button fits in the center of the sprocket and is sandwiched between the cam and the front cover.

Odds are the cam button will not be the correct length and you will have to do a lot of trial and error. I used the crane button and kept taking material off of the cam side of the button. I did most of my trial and error without a front cover gasket to make sure I didn't take too much off the button.

 

After doing some more looking I think I see what you mean. I will probably get the mildon cover, the crane roller button spacer along with a cam lock and do like you said. Thanks Once this cam is in it ain't coming out till I blow it up. With my luck that shouldn't take long. :) Actually my brand new GM 350 has given 0 problems so far.

 

Thats the one! The roller cam button is part of the removeable four screw access cover.

The reason i ask about pump type is because i had an iron FlowKooler high volume water pump. All they really are is a stock pump with a bigger impellar. So it had some real clearance issues when I installed the cast cover. So i had to use my stock pump until my stewart stage III came in.

 

Damn gkull, now I gotta re-think! Thanks! :)

Can't think too long though, gotta order by July 30 to get my 10% summit discount. :yesnod:


[Modified by Fevre, 1:29 PM 7/25/2002]

 

Yes, the button fits inside the hole in the cam sprocket and is held in place by the lock plate.

You may be able to get away with taking material off the FRONT of a solid button, but under no circumstances should you attempt to set the endplay by taking material off the back of solid-type cam button. And you should never remove ANY material from a bearing-type cam button! THIS IS NOT CORRECT!

Taking material off the back of a cam button of either type will cause the button to "float" between the lock plate and the front of the cam. If you take a bunch off--like 1/16" or so--it will bounce around in there enough to make a random clacking noise as it bangs against the timing cover.

(Don't ask how I know this... :) )

You want to dimple the timing cover in/out to set the endplay correctly with the bearing-type cam buttons. First assemble the cam button, lock plate and timing set and get them torqued to spec. on the engine. Use a thin coating of RTV to "glue" the timing cover gasket to the front of the engine. Install your timing cover with three or four bolts. Go topside and, using a long screwdriver or similar, reach down through a lifter bore (CAREFUL) and GENTLY lever the cam fore-and aft. Use the backside of a lobe for leverage. But be careful and don't make like a gorilla.

If you need more clearance, take the timing cover off the car and go to the bench. Use a 1" socket as an "anvil" and a 9/16" socket as your "punch." sandwich the timing cover between the large and the small socket and give it a whack. That will create a little dimple.

Put the timing cover back on the car and check again. Adjust the endplay back at the bench as necessary. Just the slightest "thunk" (indicating slight free play) as you move the cam is OK. You will have that timing cover on and off the front of the engine several times.

The best way to set the endplay with either type of cam button is, of course, with a dial indicator on the back of the cam with the the engine out of the car.



[Modified by The Dude, 2:12 PM 7/25/2002]

 

I'm not sure who doesn't understand who here, but I had to take almost 1/10" (if memory serves) off the back (cam side) of my button/spacer to get the .004" to .008" camshaft endplay. The button is butting against the cam, so I don't see how I could have any "float" at the front of cam. Does that make sense?

I had originally used a nylon button, but that wore much quicker than I had expected. I searched all around for a roller button which matched the size I needed and couldn't find one, hence the grinding down of the Crane one.

 

I don't have an explanation for your situation unless there are cam buttons manufactured with more or less material at the rear to facilitate setting endplay by grinding at the rear.

Generally, though, the lock plate fits flush with the front of the cam sprocket when it's bolted on there. It retains the forward edge of the "fat" part of the cam button, and the rearmost flat surface of the cam button is held tightly against the front of the camshaft when the three sprocket bolts are tightened. It "clamps" the button in there--a sandwich with no free play.

Now, if you remove material from the rear of the cam button, you're making that part of the button--the part that takes up the clearance between the front of the cam and the rear of the lock plate--thinner. Now there's free play--air space, if you will--where there shouldn't be any. The camshaft, cam button, sprocket, and lock plate should be a solid assembly with the end play set by either dimpling the timing cover or--possibly--by grinding material from the front of a solid-type button.

But, hey, it works for you with no rattling around.