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I used the method of loosening all the adjusting screws, getting some suction cups to hold the window from inside. Place the window right where you want it, I used a helper on the outside to be sure it was straight. Tighten up the adjusting screws while it is held just in the right place.
I read somewhere they did it that way in the factory.
I used the method of loosening all the adjusting screws, getting some suction cups to hold the window from inside. Place the window right where you want it, I used a helper on the outside to be sure it was straight. Tighten up the adjusting screws while it is held just in the right place.
I read somewhere they did it that way in the factory.
x2
I did the same thing and it worked great, only I had my helper and suction cups on the outside of the door. The suction cups were $2 each at Harbor Freight.
One other item, if you are going to replace your door bushings and pins now is the time to do it as you will be adjusting the windows again after they are installed. It took me about 4 hours to replace all my bushings and pins but the doors now open and close like new. It took me two days to replace all my weather stripping.
I just looked at your picture. The adjustment for the chrome strip in your picture is actually done by two bolts under the weatherstrip (which also adjusts the weatherstrip). Loosen the bolts and adjust your gaps.
Just the info I was looking for! I had the diagram of door parts, but not the write-up page for some reason. That's why I started the thread.
This all started with the notion of replacing the weatherstrip. It is the 1973 original w/s, and a previous owner "repaired" it with a sloppy application of yellow/brown contact cement. After I pulled off the old stripping, I'm left with this trail of old cement to remove (you can see it in the door picture). I tried acetone, and it works, but very slowly. I tried a product called Goof Off: a total waste of money for this application. MEK came to mind, but I had none on hand. I know I'm going to paint before the new w/s goes on, so I'm not too concerned with harshness of the glue remover. I'm using a paint stripper applied just on the dried glue with an acid brush, and it's working, but it also removes any nearby paint right down to the gray fiberglass. Ouch!
And yeah, I have new door hinge bushings and pins, but I want to replace the "S" torsion spring in that top hinge as well. Have to order those.
I'm rambling off again. Sorry. But THANKS AGAIN for the responses!
I used the method described by a couple of you guys, loosening everything and positioning the glass by hand.
It's a wee bit tight, but the only other way to further the glass's aft position is to reposition the door, as the window regulator's position is maxed out.
I believe this will be alright, for with time the weatherstrip will conform a bit, and I'll always have a tight seal. Which is what weatherstrip is all about.
Even the official directions on this come down to "Loosen everything up, put the window where you want it and tighten everything up." With some other advice but technique is that. Which is great! Like you can take the entire interior out just about with a phillips screwdriver. Brilliant!
Door Window Adjustment Help Needed
