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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 12:21 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
Just wondering what I can expect for labor cost on a cam install?
Bloodzone, I must that I am impressed with how fast you got your new lump in and running. I am on a completely different timeframe for my diy project, I will be lucky to have it running by late fall. Probably too late for this but if you go to the GM Heritage Center > Vehicle Information Kits you can find the codes that are stamped into the differential casing that will indicate the gearing inside. Or get your car safely up on jack stands and count the number of driveshaft revolutions for one turn of a rear wheel. With 3.55 gears the shaft will rotate about 3 1/2 times,3.08 a little more than 3X, it is easy to tell the difference.

But if you don't like to get underneath your car I don't know what to say...
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
Just wondering what I can expect for labor cost on a cam install?
Can you do the work your self? Did you figure what rear gear you have? If you have 3.55s then try a 2400 rpm stall.

Last edited by bluedawg; Jul 25, 2014 at 01:36 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 08:48 AM
  #23  
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I'm not much of a wrench turner. Oil changes, spark plugs, breaks, thermostats about all I've ever done. Changed and flushed couple of radiators and thats about it. I dont have the means/tools to get under the car. Also I'm in a very rural part of Georgia and dont have a nice local speed shop handy. (1 stoplight town)

I should know about the rear this afternoon. At this point I'm not taking anything on faith. Even if its has 3.55 stamped I'm going to count the revolutions like Route77 suggested.

I'm hoping for a way to keep the cam with a matching stall if I have the 3.55. I was planning on a 200r4 or 700r4 in the future so this might be the right time to pull the trigger on that. I wish the cam was not as agressive but I can live with it I hope. But who knows. Depending on what I findout today I may be cam shopping this weekend.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I'm not much of a wrench turner. Oil changes, spark plugs, breaks, thermostats about all I've ever done. Changed and flushed couple of radiators and thats about it. I dont have the means/tools to get under the car. Also I'm in a very rural part of Georgia and dont have a nice local speed shop handy. (1 stoplight town)

I should know about the rear this afternoon. At this point I'm not taking anything on faith. Even if its has 3.55 stamped I'm going to count the revolutions like Route77 suggested.

I'm hoping for a way to keep the cam with a matching stall if I have the 3.55. I was planning on a 200r4 or 700r4 in the future so this might be the right time to pull the trigger on that. I wish the cam was not as agressive but I can live with it I hope. But who knows. Depending on what I findout today I may be cam shopping this weekend.
The 700r4 has a 3.06 to 1 first gear so a good stall converter in the 2400 to 2800 would help a lot with that first gear. Some guys don't like the drop from first to second, it could be better but it's not that bad.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 12:43 PM
  #25  
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Just to show everyone what I mean by "1 stoplight town" thats wife in our jeep at the city limits.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #26  
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Update:
I do have a 3.55 rear. I also have a intake vacuume leak on my turnkey crate engine. The garage adjusted timing and carb so does not stall in drive. Its still weak off line. Pulling the intake next Tuesday to repair leak and adjust timing and carb again bla bla bla. Now is the point where I need true guidance. Which would be better?

1. add correct stall to my th350.
2. Upgrade to 200r4 or 700r4 with correct stall.
3. switch cam.
4. Switch Cam and add a stall.

I really need some good advice, I dont want to make anymore mistakes with this car.

BTW: I also have a new Street Warrior 8121 intake that I could switch out if it offered any benefits over my current intake which has a 1.5" higher dual plane.

Last edited by Bloodzone; Jul 25, 2014 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 10:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone


Just to show everyone what I mean by "1 stoplight town" thats wife in our jeep at the city limits.
Tell the wife just cause she has a jeep it doesn't mean she HAS to go off the road! For god sakes, the highway is right there!

Cool jeep!
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 11:37 PM
  #28  
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Intake leak, timing, see what you got. 2400 convertor will make a big difference with your 3.55 but if your going to upgrade to a 700R4 sometime soon, and you can afford to do it now that and the convertor will match the existing build real well.

Last edited by 63mako; Jul 25, 2014 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 04:07 AM
  #29  
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Thats what I'm leaning towards too. I've already received a quote from Bowtie Transmissions for a complete package.

The 700r4 has a 3.06 1st and the 200r4 has a 2.74 1st. which would match better with my 3.55 rear?

I know I'm a question machine. I swear if I can get this car setup I wont post for a month
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 07:31 AM
  #30  
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You sure are off track with this topic ..

You need to make sure the carb is dialed in properly , timing is correct and you are 100% sure you have no vacuum leaks. Until you get to that point adding anything else is just going to cause more issues...
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #31  
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I agree 100% and thats my plan. Leak fix is scheduled for next Tuesday. Timing and carb will be redone then as well. Then maybe in a week or so I can add the stall converter or od transmission.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I agree 100% and thats my plan. Leak fix is scheduled for next Tuesday. Timing and carb will be redone then as well. Then maybe in a week or so I can add the stall converter or od transmission.
I am betting if the motor is set up right all the gear and tranny ideas can wait ...
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #33  
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That would nice. I would have a smile and little more money in my pocket. Right now (with my intake leak) if I punch it from a dead stop takes 1 or 2 seconds for the rpms to get up then the car really launches. But its really slow for those 1 or 2 seconds with zero tire spin. To me that says needs stall converter but I'm a rookie and guessing.

I'm not gonna get ahead of myself. Nothing will be done till motor is 100%
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 09:32 AM
  #34  
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Fix known issues and find the unknown ones on that motor you will be surprised ..
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
That would nice. I would have a smile and little more money in my pocket. Right now (with my intake leak) if I punch it from a dead stop takes 1 or 2 seconds for the rpms to get up then the car really launches. But its really slow for those 1 or 2 seconds with zero tire spin. To me that says needs stall converter but I'm a rookie and guessing.

I'm not gonna get ahead of myself. Nothing will be done till motor is 100%
I might be a broken record, but the stall WAS recommended for a reason.

Fix the intake leak. It's SIMPLE and CHEAP.

But you need the stall.

My blueprint 383 is a tire burning SOB...the stall let's the engine get the RPM's up.

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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 08:26 AM
  #36  
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honestly with 3.55 gears it shouldnt really be that bad once you put a recommended stall in it... I would just fix your vacuum leak and replace the converter.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 09:12 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
honestly with 3.55 gears it shouldnt really be that bad once you put a recommended stall in it... I would just fix your vacuum leak and replace the converter.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #38  
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My thought is if you plan on changing to a 700R4 at some point and you don't do your own work I would not pay to pull the trans, buy and install convertor and reinstall trans knowing it was all going to be redone and you will pay for these operations twice. Don't know how durable the factory original TH350 will be behind 425 HP and a 2400 stall long term. it all depends on the available cash, long term plans and end goals. I would likely get it going as is and wait till winter and all parts are secured before changing anything.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
Thats what I'm leaning towards too. I've already received a quote from Bowtie Transmissions for a complete package.

The 700r4 has a 3.06 1st and the 200r4 has a 2.74 1st. which would match better with my 3.55 rear?

I know I'm a question machine. I swear if I can get this car setup I wont post for a month
You're going to have alot of fun with that car, I have a 79 with 406 and the cam you have with L98 heads, 700r4 and 355s.
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