Strut rod bolts, wtf!
07-25-2014, 12:05 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Strut rod bolts, wtf!
So what's the trick for removing both upper and lower strut rod bolts? Snapped both the bolt head and nut the upper one and am working on the lower in which we've tried head and a BFH with no luck. Any pointers or help would be greatly appreciated.
07-25-2014, 12:28 PM
#2
Team Owner
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Looks like you need a Sawz-All on those. You need a shock mount removal tool on the lowers. Buy the tool. Do not try to whack out the shock mounts or you'll be buying a pair of those.
07-25-2014, 12:37 PM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
07-25-2014, 02:21 PM
#4
Team Owner
07-25-2014, 04:57 PM
#5
I cleaned all the oil and crap off with brake cleaner and then soaked in PB for a few days before I attempted them...came right out on the tops. The bottoms I am soaking in ATF and acetone for a few days before I try whacking them out. You can buy a coupler nut from the hardware store to use instead of the "tool". Try a quick soak and then punch it like gkull suggested - should come right out.
07-25-2014, 11:14 PM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well its setting at my Bros shop. I'll be back in two weeks, I'm at work. He said he'd try to get them out if work slowed. If not it will be waiting on me. I ordered new shock mount bolts, & an adjuster bolt kit. Should be at the shop Monday. The bolt wouldn't just drive out so we mounting bracket off and were trying to get the strut rods out to no avail. It was my last day before coming back to work so there she sets.
07-26-2014, 01:05 AM
#7
Team Owner
Well its setting at my Bros shop. I'll be back in two weeks, I'm at work. He said he'd try to get them out if work slowed. If not it will be waiting on me. I ordered new shock mount bolts, & an adjuster bolt kit. Should be at the shop Monday. The bolt wouldn't just drive out so we mounting bracket off and were trying to get the strut rods out to no avail. It was my last day before coming back to work so there she sets.
07-26-2014, 04:10 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
I have an extra set of strut rods that I'd sell for cheap, PM me if interested. I bought them to put on my C3 but ended up buying the complete street & slalom kit.
07-26-2014, 09:06 AM
#9
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07-26-2014, 02:21 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
I tried to get the lower shock mounts out once with an air hammer and failed. Before my next attempt, I sprayed PB blaster on them every day for a week. A few wacks of the hammer and a good hit with the air hammer got them right out.
I did have to replace them. The splines were shot and one turned in its socket resulting in the lower part of the shock slipping out from its mount.
I did have to replace them. The splines were shot and one turned in its socket resulting in the lower part of the shock slipping out from its mount.
07-26-2014, 02:52 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
For sure. will do. Thanks.
07-27-2014, 04:55 PM
#13
Nam Labrat
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I feel your pain.....I soaked everything every day for a week and still snapped a few bolts while disassembling my rear suspension.
07-27-2014, 06:37 PM
#14
Race Director
Maybe this is too late to add this.
And I understand that many people may not have one or access to one. BUT...when I run into really stubborn lower shock mount bolts that will not move with the CORRECT tool on it so you can whack it with a hammer. IF I hit it twice and see NO MOVEMENT....I STOP.
OPTION 1)
And in some cases...I cut the 'eye' end of the strut rod with a thin cut-off wheel so it would fall off and leave the bushing and sleeve so I could get to the sleeve VERY CAREFULLY not to cut into the bearing housing. This is done on Corvettes that are in actually good looking shape in the surround parts that I do not want to potentially damage the paint.
OPTION 2)
I use my torch (which I have very good torch skills) and burn the rubber out and heat up the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing so it will expand and then I can get the lower shock mount bolt out rather quickly. I have done so many that I have lost count....and when I am installing new lower shock mount bolts that get a light film of anti-seize or copper-seize on it so it will not seize up again...or at least less likely to seize.
And I hope that people use COMMON SENSE if you choose to employ my OPTION 2. Such as get the shock absorber out of the way of the heat.
And I am not at all concerned if I have to cut the strut rod. Because me spending hours of my time on trying to save a part would actually cost my customer more. Even if I have to cut the rod in half and drop the bracket on the rear differential if needed so I can press out the stubborn broken bolt(s).
DUB
And I understand that many people may not have one or access to one. BUT...when I run into really stubborn lower shock mount bolts that will not move with the CORRECT tool on it so you can whack it with a hammer. IF I hit it twice and see NO MOVEMENT....I STOP.
OPTION 1)
And in some cases...I cut the 'eye' end of the strut rod with a thin cut-off wheel so it would fall off and leave the bushing and sleeve so I could get to the sleeve VERY CAREFULLY not to cut into the bearing housing. This is done on Corvettes that are in actually good looking shape in the surround parts that I do not want to potentially damage the paint.
OPTION 2)
I use my torch (which I have very good torch skills) and burn the rubber out and heat up the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing so it will expand and then I can get the lower shock mount bolt out rather quickly. I have done so many that I have lost count....and when I am installing new lower shock mount bolts that get a light film of anti-seize or copper-seize on it so it will not seize up again...or at least less likely to seize.
And I hope that people use COMMON SENSE if you choose to employ my OPTION 2. Such as get the shock absorber out of the way of the heat.
And I am not at all concerned if I have to cut the strut rod. Because me spending hours of my time on trying to save a part would actually cost my customer more. Even if I have to cut the rod in half and drop the bracket on the rear differential if needed so I can press out the stubborn broken bolt(s).
DUB
07-27-2014, 07:27 PM
#15
Instructor
Mine were spot welded in, I guess so they wouldn't turn. (That was a fun repair) Shock mounts, buy new ones, less aggravation.
07-27-2014, 07:51 PM
#16
On a lift .....where you can stand up see wtf your doing. And bring pressure to bare on the cut ..took about five minutes each to Sawzall though. Each side.
07-27-2014, 11:20 PM
#17
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Maybe this is too late to add this.
And I understand that many people may not have one or access to one. BUT...when I run into really stubborn lower shock mount bolts that will not move with the CORRECT tool on it so you can whack it with a hammer. IF I hit it twice and see NO MOVEMENT....I STOP.
OPTION 1)
And in some cases...I cut the 'eye' end of the strut rod with a thin cut-off wheel so it would fall off and leave the bushing and sleeve so I could get to the sleeve VERY CAREFULLY not to cut into the bearing housing. This is done on Corvettes that are in actually good looking shape in the surround parts that I do not want to potentially damage the paint.
OPTION 2)
I use my torch (which I have very good torch skills) and burn the rubber out and heat up the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing so it will expand and then I can get the lower shock mount bolt out rather quickly. I have done so many that I have lost count....and when I am installing new lower shock mount bolts that get a light film of anti-seize or copper-seize on it so it will not seize up again...or at least less likely to seize.
And I hope that people use COMMON SENSE if you choose to employ my OPTION 2. Such as get the shock absorber out of the way of the heat.
And I am not at all concerned if I have to cut the strut rod. Because me spending hours of my time on trying to save a part would actually cost my customer more. Even if I have to cut the rod in half and drop the bracket on the rear differential if needed so I can press out the stubborn broken bolt(s).
DUB
And I understand that many people may not have one or access to one. BUT...when I run into really stubborn lower shock mount bolts that will not move with the CORRECT tool on it so you can whack it with a hammer. IF I hit it twice and see NO MOVEMENT....I STOP.
OPTION 1)
And in some cases...I cut the 'eye' end of the strut rod with a thin cut-off wheel so it would fall off and leave the bushing and sleeve so I could get to the sleeve VERY CAREFULLY not to cut into the bearing housing. This is done on Corvettes that are in actually good looking shape in the surround parts that I do not want to potentially damage the paint.
OPTION 2)
I use my torch (which I have very good torch skills) and burn the rubber out and heat up the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing so it will expand and then I can get the lower shock mount bolt out rather quickly. I have done so many that I have lost count....and when I am installing new lower shock mount bolts that get a light film of anti-seize or copper-seize on it so it will not seize up again...or at least less likely to seize.
And I hope that people use COMMON SENSE if you choose to employ my OPTION 2. Such as get the shock absorber out of the way of the heat.
And I am not at all concerned if I have to cut the strut rod. Because me spending hours of my time on trying to save a part would actually cost my customer more. Even if I have to cut the rod in half and drop the bracket on the rear differential if needed so I can press out the stubborn broken bolt(s).
DUB
Thanks for all replies and ideas. Being a dumb *** comes so natural to me some times and it shows by waiting until my last day home for two weeks to dick with this.
Last edited by bluedawg; 07-27-2014 at 11:24 PM.
08-11-2014, 10:56 AM
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for the advice, we put heat on them for the second time and got them out. I put antiseeze in the strut rod hole and hopefully if I have to take them out again it wont be such a pain.