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Tie rod ends

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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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Default Tie rod ends

I can't seem to find squat with the search.
I'm just wanting to know which way is best when changing out tie rod ends. Do you change them with the wheels on the ground or on a ramp? Or, is it better to change them with the car jacked up and the wheels hanging? The latter seems like ti would put too much tension on them for easy removal.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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I always lift and remove the wheels.

If I'm replacing them I just hit the top with a hammer/sledge and it pops right out.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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Tough to reach with the wheels on.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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I prefer to either use a 'pickle fork' or the tie-rod removing tool. That way no possible damage/distortion to any of the steering components occurs if you have to start to 'beat it to death' to get it out.

DUB
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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If you are going to beat it to death, unscrew the nut until it's even with the top of the tie rod, that way the hammer won't damage the threads.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kanvasman
If you are going to beat it to death, unscrew the nut until it's even with the top of the tie rod, that way the hammer won't damage the threads.
And don't use the castle nut.......screw a "solid" nut onto the threads so the castle nut doesn't get destroyed while hammering on it (don't ask )
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 07:33 AM
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I sometimes turn the castle nut upside down and screw it back on flush before striking it. The new ends will come with new nuts.
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 09:36 AM
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Thanks guys! I need to do this first before I fix the leaking power steering
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kanvasman
If you are going to beat it to death, unscrew the nut until it's even with the top of the tie rod, that way the hammer won't damage the threads.
You don't hit the tie rod. You hit the knuckle that the tie rod is in. It'll pop right out.

See where this guy is hitting it.


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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
You don't hit the tie rod. You hit the knuckle that the tie rod is in. It'll pop right out.

See where this guy is hitting it.
NOT ALWAYS...sometimes they do not like to 'just pop out'.....and try doing that on C4 suspension which is aluminum and see what happens.

They make special tools for this...OR... smack and beat away if you must.

And with this type of removal process being discussed. I would love to see the condition of the gear box after someone beat the pitman arm in order to remove the same type of taper seated stud on the center link or the power steering control valve.

DUB
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
NOT ALWAYS...sometimes they do not like to 'just pop out'
Then you're doing it wrong.

.....and try doing that on C4 suspension which is aluminum and see what happens.
We're not talking about C4's.

And with this type of removal process being discussed. I would love to see the condition of the gear box after someone beat the pitman arm in order to remove the same type of taper seated stud on the center link or the power steering control valve.
Again, if you damage anything, you're doing it wrong.
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Then you're doing it wrong.
Trust me...I know how to do it. And they do not always fall out like you mentioned. YOU must have the 'touch'. Honestly..I am glad I do not have THAT touch.

Originally Posted by bashcraft
We're not talking about C4's.
I know that...BUT...if tools are made to not damage the aluminum suspensions....why would you want to whack on any other suspension parts. REALLY...Like the time being spent is so valuable that the few moments of difference in time means that much....if that is what this whole discussion is all about....TIME


Originally Posted by bashcraft
Again, if you damage anything, you're doing it wrong.
I do not damage a thing....I guess it is because I use the proper tools for the job...and not just swing a dead blow hammer around. Not writing that I have not used the 'hammer method' successfully...but my methods have changed due to working on many Corvettes that suspension parts are really nice and I feel better not hitting them and marking them up. I am just being conscientious about the condition of my customers Corvettes when they are services and returned to them. Damaging powder coating and paint finishes is NOT something I want on my resume.

Much like using an impact on chrome jug nuts...which I never do.....instead of hand loosening/tightening them and using a torque wrench. It all depends on the level of care and attention to detail that a mechanic employs.

DUB
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Trust me...I know how to do it. And they do not always fall out like you mentioned. YOU must have the 'touch'. Honestly..I am glad I do not have THAT touch.


I know that...BUT...if tools are made to not damage the aluminum suspensions....why would you want to whack on any other suspension parts. REALLY...Like the time being spent is so valuable that the few moments of difference in time means that much....if that is what this whole discussion is all about....TIME




I do not damage a thing....I guess it is because I use the proper tools for the job...and not just swing a dead blow hammer around. Not writing that I have not used the 'hammer method' successfully...but my methods have changed due to working on many Corvettes that suspension parts are really nice and I feel better not hitting them and marking them up. I am just being conscientious about the condition of my customers Corvettes when they are services and returned to them. Damaging powder coating and paint finishes is NOT something I want on my resume.

Much like using an impact on chrome jug nuts...which I never do.....instead of hand loosening/tightening them and using a torque wrench. It all depends on the level of care and attention to detail that a mechanic employs.

DUB
Good answer.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 09:33 AM
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I use the correct tools when doing steering work. So.. just an observation here. When I first started out working on cars when I was 14 years old, I installed tie rod ends and ball joints. Since I was unsure of my skills at that age, I made sure I tightened he heck out of the nuts. I was afraid of steering parts coming lose while on the road. The next time I had to remove those same components, the "double hammer whack" method never worked. I was forced to purchase the correct removers. Bottom line... no... the hammer method does not always work, and it's usually because a nubie (like me) over tightened the nut the last time around.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
I prefer to either use a 'pickle fork' or the tie-rod removing tool. That way no possible damage/distortion to any of the steering components occurs if you have to start to 'beat it to death' to get it out.

DUB
I use the pickle fork on a pneumatic hammer, works great so long as you use the appropriate sized fork.
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Good answer.
Thanks.

I know people will do what they want...which is fine.

But many people do not have a clue and are looking for answers and may read suggestions and apply them to their situation....and actually have a problem. I am trying to help...that is all.

Originally Posted by bluedawg
I use the pickle fork on a pneumatic hammer, works great so long as you use the appropriate sized fork.
I have an air hammer that hits like Tyson. One tap on the trigger and it is apart.

DUB
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