Hi All,

with upgrading to C5/C6 rims....thinking 17"front and 18" in back...anyone have to move the e-brake cable?

any other adjustments besides wheel spacers and new studs?

Thanks,
Ron

 

I have C4 17" Sawblades all around. All 8.5 inches wide. I also have 2.75 " ADAPTERS (NOT spacers). Mine fit without any alteration to the emergency brake bracket. My understanding is that later C4, C5 and C6 wheels all have similar backspacing. HOWEVER, many C4, C5 & C6 use wider wheels (at least 9.5 inches) on the rear, which will increase backspace and may require mods to trailing arm brackets.

 

with c6 rims you will need to relocate e brake. I used 3.25 hub/wheel centric in rear 2.75 in front and I didn't align one rear wheel right and what was left of ebrake bracket scraped the wheel but it looks dope now and very doable. I didn't notch frame or have flare base c6 rims fit fine with no mods to body or arms.

 

How do you feel about your spacer choice? Would you have went a little different size on either?

(I think we were both posting in another thread regarding c6 wheels a few months back)

 

Yeah I remember..
I actually like the look on front and back. they are staggered obviously but the back is right within the fender wall and the front is a tad pushed in and the turn radius in front is real good compared to when I had it on 22"s. it took a lil getting used to the meat in the back but it changed the dynamic and feel of car. So basically I feel it was the right choice the car sits nice on rims no rubbing just need to drop the front end due to all the weight I knocked off the front end.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...052f3f0e5a.jpg

 

you could go like 2.90 in front push it out more parallel to fender 3inches might be to much. The back for me 3.25 was perfect with e brake bracket removed. 3.50 in back might leave rear tire right on top of fender but you might not need to move e brake bracket?

 

OK...so for C5 rims...17 front 18 rear...I believe fronts are typically 9" and rears are 10.5"....

anyone do C5 rims? I just want to confirm only wheel adapters...no ebrake issues...

Thanks
R

 

Yeah I believe the guy who did that 80 was 2.9 front and 3.1 rear. But, he also had a 255 front tire whereas stock c6 and I will have a 245. Not much but changes it a bit.

The rear was my big question. His at 3.1 seems awfully close to the frame. But on the flip side I don't want to be out far enough to worry about the fender lip.

I think the ebrake may still give you problems. Why don't you just move it regardless? It's the safe way to go and very easy. I cut mine off with a cutoff wheel and tacked it to the back side. Easy enough not to have to worry about it.

 

With 3.25 I can fit my finger in between wheel and arm. There's enough space for me to feel comfortable

 

OK! awesome!

76CSRvette...what year rims are those? C5? widths?

Thanks,
R

 

They 2013 c6 rims 18x8.5 and 19x10. 245 40 and 285 35 tires.

 

Alignment done already?

 

Ibanez...good point...or is there a bracket that is sold for the ebrake mod?

thanks,
R

 

Please lets clear up the difference between wheel ADAPTOR and spacer......a spacer is typically a **** poor casting like I have seen shatter with missing chunks....sold by stupid speed shops, cast pot metal, they CAN be made out of high quality aluminum and machined correctly...but rare......

An ADAPTOR bolts to the hub/rotor via the stock bolts, and has it's own 5 studs sticking out that are interleaved with the stock ones....so it takes ten lug nutz to get to the rotor......I have them on my '72 mounting 17x8 9.5 '89 vette wheels.....

AND YES to keep the same wheel centerline which I would highly recommend due to suspension loading,....you have only 3/4 inch to pick up on the inside and 3/4 to the outside, I have maybe 1/4 inch clearance to the trailing arm off the tire, after moving the ebrake.......

my clearance to the frame in rear is a bit more, but the sway bar is really close.... NOW here is another trick, P/O had modified all the fenders to be wider, and as such they are very similar to a late shark, if anyone looks close they find a hell of a difference between say a stock '72 and a '78+ although it's not obvious at a glance.....

so I have 275/50/17 in rear and 255/50/17 in front, and I had to build out the snub steering limit pads on the lower control pads to make the tires not rub the chassis/whatever.....

 

They sell the replacement bracket that is the same as the one you will have to cut off. Both will be re-welded to the backside. No point in buying a new replacement.

If you are unable to weld or don't want to get someone to do it, there are some "bubba" type ways to relocate the cable. You'll have to research old posts.

 

I grinded mine down because they were half cut off but if you don't have them you can find em I got em but never installed them because I need to rebuild the e brake and put new shoes so I haven't gone to get it aligned because on a long weekend if im free I will tear it all apart and try to put it back together before going to back to work.

 

OK! Great info!

Thanks guys!

R