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1978 with power windows which work intermittantly. Sometimes go up and down smoothly, most other times they dont function at all. I suspect bad switches which seem to be non original. Can anyone tell me what the wires are?
BLUE
BROWN
RED
these are the wires at the right switch.
Could be a bad groud too. Dumb question needs a smart answer. Is that silver cylinder next to the switches the circuit breaker? I dont see one on the fuse block.
Thanks
Jim
Last edited by biackbenz; Aug 9, 2014 at 01:04 PM.
I just had the passenger go out. Down position. The motor was working great. Drivers works as usual. Seems the switch doesn't make a sound like the motor in either direction, not further down (It is al the way down) unless it is not supposed to have any sound when down already.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by minitech
I just had the passenger go out. Down position. The motor was working great. Drivers works as usual. Seems the switch doesn't make a sound like the motor in either direction, not further down (It is al the way down) unless it is not supposed to have any sound when down already.
Must be the switch?
Or motor ground?
The motor grounds to the door.
While trying the switch watch the battery gauge, if it deflects the motor is stuck.
On the motor one terminal makes the window go up the other terminal is for down, if the motor works with a jumper check for a broken wire between the door and the body or check the switch.
As I first suspected, I have bad switches. Tried to rebuild them but they had been apart before. They work now but I'm not certain the body clips - what is left of them will hold. Did not put console covers back on and will try them for a while. Appears these swiches were repaired once before. No dielectric grease and the points look pretty worn. I sanded them and they tested good but not sure I have a good assembly unless I do something drastis to hold the switch plate to the body. Maybe time to just replace them.
Thanks for all the help and wiring diagrams from everyone.
As I first suspected, I have bad switches. Tried to rebuild them but they had been apart before. They work now but I'm not certain the body clips - what is left of them will hold. Did not put console covers back on and will try them for a while. Appears these swiches were repaired once before. No dielectric grease and the points look pretty worn. I sanded them and they tested good but not sure I have a good assembly unless I do something drastis to hold the switch plate to the body. Maybe time to just replace them.
Thanks for all the help and wiring diagrams from everyone.
No maybe about it. R & R those dudes and be done with it.
I was getting ready to post a photo, but when I read and looked at the thread I notice that the photo from my website was already posted. AND modified. Not cool.
I don't mind you using my pictures but you should maybe ask first before using it and publishing it as your own.
********
The switches can be re-built multiple times.. I've done it. If the casting is broken just pick a new area to steak the module in.
Here is the video we did on rebuilding the switches in case someone else is reading this.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Aug 11, 2014 at 09:34 PM.
I was getting ready to post a photo, but when I read and looked at the thread I notice that the photo from my website was already posted. AND modified. Not cool.
I don't mind you using my pictures but you should maybe ask first before using it and publishing it as your own.
I had no idea it was your diagram...It was emailed to me by a fellow forum member who wanted to know how to add relays since his switches had only lasted a couple months. The diagram I modded had no logo or any info on it. I always give credit where credit is due. I just this eventing- went to your website and could not find the diagram.
Plus -If I knew it was your diagram- why would I put it on my flickr or photobucket account. Sort of like sleeping w/ someones wife and leaving your business card on the nightstand.
And I (and sure others) appreciate what you guys do for us fellow Corvette owners!!!
I wonder why they step down to the smaller 14 gauge wire from the switches to the motors. Simultaneous operation of both windows explains the 12 gauge input I guess.
I had no idea it was your diagram...It was emailed to me by a fellow forum member who wanted to know how to add relays since his switches had only lasted a couple months. The diagram I modded had no logo or any info on it. I always give credit where credit is due. I just this eventing- went to your website and could not find the diagram.
Plus -If I knew it was your diagram- why would I put it on my flickr or photobucket account. Sort of like sleeping w/ someones wife and leaving your business card on the nightstand.
And I (and sure others) appreciate what you guys do for us fellow Corvette owners!!!
The motor grounds to the door.
While trying the switch watch the battery gauge, if it deflects the motor is stuck.
On the motor one terminal makes the window go up the other terminal is for down, if the motor works with a jumper check for a broken wire between the door and the body or check the switch.
Thank you for the information. The meter did change with the switch so motor was stuck. I wrapped the motor area on the door with a little sledge and the motor came to life.
Now, do I change the motor out? It runs strong like a champ. Window is nicely aligned with the trim.
If I keep it from going all the way down does that stop it from getting stuck?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Glad you got it to work again.
I am just a hobbiest and only changed the regulator on the door once but it was a very difficult job for me.
After removing the glass and the regulator I found out you have to put a bolt between the regulator body and the big gear to safely remove the motor.
Reassembling everything and getting the glass to fit in the weatherstripping was another problem for me.
After all that if I lower the window all the way and go up, my window goes up 2 inches and gets stuck.
The motor hangs up on the lower glass channel.
If I pull the back end of the motor towards the inside just about 1/8" of an inch it goes up just fine.
I just learned to stop 2 inches from the bottom and that is good enough for now.
You are in good hands with Willcox so follow his advice from here on out.
Glad you got it to work again.
I am just a hobbiest and only changed the regulator on the door once but it was a very difficult job for me.
After removing the glass and the regulator I found out you have to put a bolt between the regulator body and the big gear to safely remove the motor.
Reassembling everything and getting the glass to fit in the weatherstripping was another problem for me.
After all that if I lower the window all the way and go up, my window goes up 2 inches and gets stuck.
The motor hangs up on the lower glass channel.
If I pull the back end of the motor towards the inside just about 1/8" of an inch it goes up just fine.
I just learned to stop 2 inches from the bottom and that is good enough for now.
You are in good hands with Willcox so follow his advice from here on out.
I replaced the regulators on both sides, but not motors, last year and it was a pain to get them set up just right. That is why I hesitate to take it apart again.
Since it was the first time getting stuck I'll keep an eye on it for now.
Willcox is the man though. One time I needed a plug for a C4 fan I was putting in my C3 and contacted him. He went and got a plug and put it up for sale on his vendor site just so I could get it.