Rear Caliper Removal
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: DFW Texas
Rear Caliper Removal
I know this is probably a stupid question. Is there a way to remove these without removing the steel line? I was starting to remove the line but the bolts feel like butter and are just going to result in stripping them even further. Also with the lines in place they are blocking me from getting to one of the bolts. I guess what I am asking is what is the easiest way to remove these suckers?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Bridgewater nj
The metal line can flex a little, so if it needs to be out of the way for something else. Just unbolt it and hold it up with a bungee.
If you need to remove the metal line and it's old, just buy new ones. It ain't worth trying to salvage.
If you need to remove the metal line and it's old, just buy new ones. It ain't worth trying to salvage.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Texas
six point socket, breaker bar, or six point boxed end wrench .. they round off easy if they've been on there a while, get some new grade 8 caliper bolts.....
http://www.cssbinc.com/1965-82corvet...8-washers.aspx
http://www.cssbinc.com/1965-82corvet...8-washers.aspx
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lebanon OH
The first time I removed my calipers, the lines were fossilized and I couldn't turn the bolt with a wrench. Replacements aren't very expensive, so I just cut the line with a dremel tool, ground a flat spot on opposite sides of the flange nut, put the calipers in a bench vise, and removed what was left with a vise grip.
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From: DFW Texas
Thanks for the input y'all! I went ahead and ordered new lines and those bolts you linked. We will see how much cussing and knuckle banging occurs tonight but since I have the new parts coming in I am not so worried about preserving the old ones. So it shouldn't be to big of a problem now.
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From: DFW Texas
Attempted Caliper Rebuild
I guess I will turn this into my attempt at rebuilding my calipers thread haha. So after some help from my trusty breaker bar I was finally able to remove the rear calipers. Below are some pictures after I pulled them and with the pistons out. Also, found a spider with it's egg sac in one of the openings on the rotor, almost set the whole car on fire and walked away at that moment, but refrained and just sprayed brake cleaner on it.
Anyone need some slightly used brake lines? haha
I know I still need to scrub a lot more out of them, but do these at least look like they can still be rebuilt? That last one worries me the most because I can't tell if the pit at the back is suppose to be there or if that is a sign of to much wear and tear.
Also what is the best way to clean the hubs off. the rears look awful!!!!
Anyone need some slightly used brake lines? haha
I know I still need to scrub a lot more out of them, but do these at least look like they can still be rebuilt? That last one worries me the most because I can't tell if the pit at the back is suppose to be there or if that is a sign of to much wear and tear.
Also what is the best way to clean the hubs off. the rears look awful!!!!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lebanon OH
For the pits at the bottom of the caliper I wouldn't worry too much. The important thing is removing the rust from the side walls of the steel sleeve because that's what the lip seal or o-ring (if you upgrade) needs. Unfortunately, your steel sleeves look at least rough, if not pitted, but it could be the pictures. If you can get the rust off AND hone the cylinder walls smooth, I'd go ahead and invest the $15.00 or so on a lip seal kit and put them back together. If they hold under pressure, over an extended period of use, then they're probably OK.
If they hold then you can take them off and paint them, upgrade them, etc. If you cant get the rist off ot the cylinder walls are rough after honing, I'd go ahead and get another set. Good luck.
If they hold then you can take them off and paint them, upgrade them, etc. If you cant get the rist off ot the cylinder walls are rough after honing, I'd go ahead and get another set. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,021
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From: North tonawanda NY
Thanks for the input y'all! I went ahead and ordered new lines and those bolts you linked. We will see how much cussing and knuckle banging occurs tonight but since I have the new parts coming in I am not so worried about preserving the old ones. So it shouldn't be to big of a problem now.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 12, 2014 at 11:24 PM.
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From: DFW Texas
Any auto store should have the lines... I replace mine last week when I rebuild miy calipers total cost for two lines and two caliper rebuild kits was $30 from auto zone. Your fronts do not appear to be sleeved at all actually... there is no lip where the sleeve would end at the base... they just have machined iron bores from what it looks like to me.
I also already have the rebuild kits because I was anticipating doing the rebuild before I pulled them.
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From: DFW Texas
Also one of my coworkers said that from the way that the wheel hubs look, the wheel bearing is most likely done too. Do y'all have the same opinion? Also would steel wool or a scot brite bad and some brake cleaner be okay to clean these?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
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From: WI
For the pits at the bottom of the caliper I wouldn't worry too much. The important thing is removing the rust from the side walls of the steel sleeve because that's what the lip seal or o-ring (if you upgrade) needs. Unfortunately, your steel sleeves look at least rough, if not pitted, but it could be the pictures.
stainless steel sleeves don`t rust, those bores do not look sleeved.
Melting Slicks
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From: DFW Texas
Well before my girlfriend started yelling at me to get ready to go to dinner with her parents I was able to scrub one of the cylinders a little more and found this. Is this what pitting looks like? I think it is but just wanted a second opinion real quick.
mike...
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: WI
how many non sleeved calipers do you want? I think I have six and will be happy to sell them to you
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From: DFW Texas
Well, it looks like I will just be getting a full set, because some of the rears are pitting also. Was hoping to get away with just replacing the fronts. Oh well at least I asked y'alls opinion before I wasted those oring conversion kits I got.
Last edited by txeng89; Aug 14, 2014 at 08:50 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Klein Texas
Also one of my coworkers said that from the way that the wheel hubs look, the wheel bearing is most likely done too. Do y'all have the same opinion? Also would steel wool or a scot brite bad and some brake cleaner be okay to clean these?
edit - it might be worth it to buy one of those bearing greasing tools