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There should be a fastener that is holding the dash pad onto a bracket that is behind your map pocket.
Once that its removed...BE CAREFUL because lifting up on the dash pad in the center can crack it. I usually heat it with my heat gun first and get the vinyl softened a bit.
With the map pocket out of the way...if your gauge cluster is still in place....you can easily break it if you are not careful.
wilcox recommends sitting in the pass side...reaching to the driver side edge and lifting...while pressing upwards on the middle...thus bending and pivoting off the pass side...
wilcox recommends sitting in the pass side...reaching to the driver side edge and lifting...while pressing upwards on the middle...thus bending and pivoting off the pass side...
thoughts?
thanks,
R
That is exactly how I get mine off. I have never used heat, if you do be careful it will not take much.
That is exactly how I get mine off. I have never used heat, if you do be careful it will not take much.
BTW - It really has to bow up pretty good in the middle to clear the windshield post. Mine is a convertible, so may have a little more clearance but not sure.
Here is the fastener DUB was talking about. On passenger fire wall behind map pocket.
It also helps to unscrew the two screws in the door jambs that hold the tach/speedo trim and passenger map pocket trim and drop them a bit as the pad will have to raise over the trim by the window pillars. Then as stated, flex the pad in the middle and work one of the sides out from under one of the window pillars.
The reason I wrote about apply some heat...and was confirmed in a different method of getting the dash pad heated up....is that old vinyl that is had to the touch in the middle of the dash pad can crack so easily when you bend it upwards. If it is softened by heat...from the sun or other common sense approach ( no torches) to heating it will take that variable out of the equation..somewhat. Also...warming up the corner that you are trying to get past the pillar post would not hurt either. Also...if someone reads this and it is winter time....sometimes the sun will not work when it is cold as all get out outside. I do this for a living and I do not have time to wait all day or how ever long it will take for the dash to warm up. For me...time is money.
And knowing that this does not apply in this post...BUT...if removing the later design dash assembly...the triangle shape sections of the dash assembly that go around the pillar posts need to be heated up well so they can bend....because if you don't...it will snap like a burnt up dried french fry.
actually sat on the pass side and used the driver side to pivot. it was much easier to use my left hand to bend middle and right hand to manage the corner.
actually sat on the pass side and used the driver side to pivot. it was much easier to use my left hand to bend middle and right hand to manage the corner.
Ernie, I did not realize that the aluminum dash support bracket is only used on 68's and 69's. How is a 70-77 dash held up? Lou.
They added a brace on the passenger side and some support rods for the a/c cars. That's pretty much it. They didn't use the long brace under the pad.. which honestly made it easier to get the dash out of the car.