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Pedal assembly setup

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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Default Pedal assembly setup

Did the manual to power conversion on my 75. Wondering what the proper way to set up the brake pedal is?

It looks like if I let the pedal hit the rubber bumper, I cant get it to connect with the booster clevis.

Did manuals have different rubber bumpers than the power? Or do they not connect normally.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 02:31 AM
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have you checked willcox site in repair section. they have a lot of helpful pics
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 06:02 AM
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I did an automatic with power brakes to manual transmission swap, pretty sure the pedals for a standard work with manual brakes. With each pedal assemble side by side only the brake pedal is different. The power brake clevis was short so I had to lengthen it to mate with the pedal arm. The brakes actually work better than ever now.

Last edited by SH-60B; Aug 27, 2014 at 06:05 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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Checked wilcox, Never knew they had so many tech articles, thanks! Didn't have what I needed for this part of the project.

Hmm. My pedal arm goes down by about two inches when I install the booster; leaving the pedal about a half inch above the gas. It doesn't hit the rubber bushing. Judging from the condition of it, I'm not sure it ever did hit it.

I checked my pop's 68, his seems to be the same height. Clutch pedal is about two inches above.

I have the pedal low enough that it doesn't cause leg cramps now.
Thanks for the help!
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 11:24 PM
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Here what I have found-

Manual (un-restored) Power (restored)

If you notice the rod assembly is using the TOP hole on the pedal- where as the Power uses the lower hole- Brake switch piece is longer for the Power and shorter for the manual...

Is this the common consensus? I have heard a lot of info re the clevis pin/ style and rod length- but not this-


DSCN4770 by richardhayes454, on Flickr

DSCN4771 by richardhayes454, on Flickr

DSCN4772 by richardhayes454, on Flickr
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