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C3 suspension setup for road racing

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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 03:26 AM
  #21  
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Having a problem with the rear end stepping out when existing after the corner apex under acceleration. Has any one been running without the rear sway bar? How did that work? The guys at Van Steel suggested that when I got the QA1s from them.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
Having a problem with the rear end stepping out when existing after the corner apex under acceleration. Has any one been running without the rear sway bar? How did that work? The guys at Van Steel suggested that when I got the QA1s from them.
Looks like you've got a fairly hefty rear bar, and with a dual mount spring too. My understanding of the marketing of the dual mount is that you don't need a rear bar (not that C3's necessarily need a rear bar anyway to handle). I'd definitely try running without the bar, simple test at the track all you need to do is disconnect one link. You may try more rear toe in as well if it still steps out under power on corner exit.

I run the tiny stock 7/16" rear bar, which probably doesn't do much at all.

Last edited by 69autoXr; Oct 8, 2014 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 11:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
Having a problem with the rear end stepping out when existing after the corner apex under acceleration. Has any one been running without the rear sway bar? How did that work? The guys at Van Steel suggested that when I got the QA1s from them.

out of curiosity where exactly do you race your car in WI??
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 12:05 AM
  #24  
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Not a single inquiry on type of motor? You running a big block or small block? That 420/lb rear spring is pretty stiff about the same as the old Chevy " Daytona " racing spring....with that stiff spring you'll need stiffer front springs. I wouldn't run too big of a front roll bar the 1.125" factory bar or a 1" bar should work well with solid links. Good shocks....like Bilstein shocks from Guldstrand with " Sears Point " valving are a good baseline set up. There were 2 rear roll bars a small 0.4375" and bigger 0.625" bar, Ih wouldn't run anything bigger. Dialing in the ride height and suspension alignment will give good results and a decent racing seat like a Kirkey or Ultrashield aluminum seat and set of good racing belts. Fire system? I put that high on my list......
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:45 AM
  #25  
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69 auto X-The toe in thing is a good point, I have offset TA purchased over 15 years ago. They weren't made right and as a result I cannot get any more toe in [all shims are stacked to the outside]. Setting now is 1/16 toe in. I'll try it with rear bar disconnected. Redvette- Road America and at the Mile with the SCCA. We run the infield 1.8 mile Fun as all ----. I just do HPDE. Too old to race against those young bucks. Solid LT1- SBC 411RWHP. Have the dual mount in the front as well, with QA1 duel adj in all 4 corners with 1 1/4 front bar. Corbau A4 chairs with 5 point belts. Fire system is on the to do list. Body height is the same measurement at all 4 [straight line center of axle to fender lip]. Doing my own alignment work now after numerous times to the alignment shop over the years. Going to try increasing + camber for next season, [just the front at first]. Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks T
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 08:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
69 auto X-The toe in thing is a good point, I have offset TA purchased over 15 years ago. They weren't made right and as a result I cannot get any more toe in [all shims are stacked to the outside]. Setting now is 1/16 toe in. I'll try it with rear bar disconnected. Redvette- Road America and at the Mile with the SCCA. We run the infield 1.8 mile Fun as all ----. I just do HPDE. Too old to race against those young bucks. Solid LT1- SBC 411RWHP. Have the dual mount in the front as well, with QA1 duel adj in all 4 corners with 1 1/4 front bar. Corbau A4 chairs with 5 point belts. Fire system is on the to do list. Body height is the same measurement at all 4 [straight line center of axle to fender lip]. Doing my own alignment work now after numerous times to the alignment shop over the years. Going to try increasing + camber for next season, [just the front at first]. Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks T
That is real good power for a LT-1 if it is the old 70's version. Trying to build one now. Have good carb, good speck cam
Heads are going to HVH . What all have you done ?
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 07:45 AM
  #27  
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Fia69, you might of misread my reply. I was replying to cf member 'Solid LT1'. I'll try to remember the some of the specs of that engine, it has since been changed out. It had a Quick fuel 750 mech, DP, sitting on a Preformer Air Gap, feeding into Dart Pro 1s with 195 runners. The valve train had a Lunati solid roller, Crower lifters, Harlan Scharps 1.5 rockers. The block was prepped by C&S performance in Butler, Wi. with a Callies crank and rods with Mahle forged pistons. MSD ign. Final dyno tune was done at West Bend Dyno. T
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