Door Ajar question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 153
Likes: 21
Door Ajar question
Can you remove the backing plate through the small access hole behind the switch? Reason is prior owner drilled the rivet heads off and the remainder of the rivets are still in the plate. I need to remove the plates to get the rest of the rivets out. I worked with them for quite a while and was unable to get them out of the access hole. Thanks, Jeff
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
I wasn't. Mine rusted and when it separated for the rivets (they stayed in place), it fell down in to the abyss. I fabricated a new piece and installed it, using a complicated process, utilizing a bolt and jamb nuts to clamp it in place while the JB Weld I applied to the surface bonded to the back side of the door jamb.
I posted a thread on exactly how I did it at the time (a couple years ago) with all the details. There were some others that accomplished the same outcome using a different method. Do a search for the thead a see if it doesn't help you. I think that since I repaired my switch plate, Wilcox has come out with a retro fit plate. If true, I'm guessing it would be your easiest route to success.
Good luck with the project. It can be done.
I posted a thread on exactly how I did it at the time (a couple years ago) with all the details. There were some others that accomplished the same outcome using a different method. Do a search for the thead a see if it doesn't help you. I think that since I repaired my switch plate, Wilcox has come out with a retro fit plate. If true, I'm guessing it would be your easiest route to success.
Good luck with the project. It can be done.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
I wish I could find the thread from when I did it. I think it was early summer - 2011. I can't find it in my posting history tonight but will keep looking.
Anyway, as I recall, I applied the JB Weld to the front surface of the plate I fabricated, then pulled it into place, thru the access hole in the wheel well with a string. A installed a bolt that had the same threads as the plunger switch and with jamb nuts, I clamped the plate to the back side if the body panel. I used grease on the bolt, turning it very minute or so, being sure to not allow the JB Weld to glue the bolt into the plate. Once the adhesive cured, I removed the bolt and inserted the switch without issue. I chose to do it this way because my original rivets were still in place and I didn't want to disturb them.
Hope this helps.
Anyway, as I recall, I applied the JB Weld to the front surface of the plate I fabricated, then pulled it into place, thru the access hole in the wheel well with a string. A installed a bolt that had the same threads as the plunger switch and with jamb nuts, I clamped the plate to the back side if the body panel. I used grease on the bolt, turning it very minute or so, being sure to not allow the JB Weld to glue the bolt into the plate. Once the adhesive cured, I removed the bolt and inserted the switch without issue. I chose to do it this way because my original rivets were still in place and I didn't want to disturb them.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by redrdstr72; Sep 2, 2014 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Added detail.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 153
Likes: 21
I'm thinking I can thread a bolt with a jam nut on it into the plate. Tighten it up in the original position. Then drill out what's left of the rivets and install new ones. That's the plan for tomorrow unless it doesn't work out. The heads of the rivets are gone and it has been painted.
Last edited by 502 C-3; Sep 2, 2014 at 10:11 PM. Reason: clarification
