rebuilt top end - compression too much for battery
Ordered new cables from http://custombatterycables.com/. That is what finally fixed my problem. Here is my current set up.
1000 cranking amp, top post battery.
1/0 ga ground to frame with blade type disconnect
1/0 ga ga Positive to starter
PMGR GM starter. (2000 Escalade)
4 ga ground from motor mount to frame
Additional 4 ga braided ground from starter to frame
Spins fine after hour long drive in 101* outside temps.
Last edited by johnt365; Sep 7, 2014 at 11:29 AM.
Everyone was preaching about heat problems...
Basically the wiring gets too hot and it increases the resistance in the starting circuit.
5 options that will help.
New higher amp battery.
*More power to the circuit
-This is a temporary fix. After a year of so the same issues may crop up again.
Heat shielding
*Less heat = always good
- After very long trips this ends up being useless due to heat soak. Great solution for most drivers.
New mini starter
*lower amps required in the circuit.
- Can get pricey. May require shimming. Labor intensive.
New wiring
*lower resistance in the circuit.
- Will fix the issue. VERY labor intensive. Can be expensive.
New high preformance ignition coil. *my choice*
*More power.
- Relatively cheap and easy to install.
I got stuck in the parking lot at work for 2 hours in 95+ heat. Single click and then nothing, it would kill all the electrical in the car. I finally got a friend with a large truck to jump me. His battery had enough spare amps to get my girl started but we ended up popping a fusible link.
I replaced the ignition coil and havent had an issue since.
The battery was new and the original ignition coil worked fine in a different vehicle.
Everyone was preaching about heat problems...
Basically the wiring gets too hot and it increases the resistance in the starting circuit.
5 options that will help.
New higher amp battery.
*More power to the circuit
-This is a temporary fix. After a year of so the same issues may crop up again.
Heat shielding
*Less heat = always good
- After very long trips this ends up being useless due to heat soak. Great solution for most drivers.
New mini starter
*lower amps required in the circuit.
- Can get pricey. May require shimming. Labor intensive.
New wiring
*lower resistance in the circuit.
- Will fix the issue. VERY labor intensive. Can be expensive.
New high preformance ignition coil. *my choice*
*More power.
- Relatively cheap and easy to install.
I got stuck in the parking lot at work for 2 hours in 95+ heat. Single click and then nothing, it would kill all the electrical in the car. I finally got a friend with a large truck to jump me. His battery had enough spare amps to get my girl started but we ended up popping a fusible link.
I replaced the ignition coil and havent had an issue since.
The battery was new and the original ignition coil worked fine in a different vehicle.
I have an MSD coil in my HEI dizzy
Also when it's cold...takes 3 or 4 cranks before she will fire off ...that indicate the starter as well over heat or battery ?
Last edited by Brians1; Sep 7, 2014 at 04:27 PM.
** I haven't changed anything yet - been locked up at office - cant even get lunch (ughhh) let along get to parts store
My father-in-law was over and witnessed it in person...he pinged me later in the evening with a thread he found on Heat soak for starters that have close fits aftermarket headers (what I have)....I checked all wires...in great shape, connected firmly and no corrosion....
so I guess I have a heat soak issue on my starter as most have indicated on here.
Where do I find a "mini starter" and a heat shield for it? And whats it gonna cost me ? LOL
My luck when I take it to gas station I'll be stuck there until it cools off...I'm not about to deal with that...
My buddy has a lift and I'm taking it next weekend to his place so we can do the bushings, springs, and shocks...since it will be on the lift...its the best time to replace the starter....
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Replacing the solenoid is only a half fix as the heat can easily just kill it again.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1955-1981.html
the Link you provided for the mini starter - 70 bucks - I'm just about sold at that price and its a lifetime warranty as well...rather compelling. Do you run this one? Others on here run it, like it?
*** Autozone price for the starter sol is 42 bucks - thats 3/4th the cost of the mini starter....
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1931&ppt=C0330
As far as the Skip White one, I personally have not run one, but I was planning to. You just need to make sure your block is drilled for the straight across pattern. They had a bad rep for a long time, but my understanding is they have resolved a lot of those issues. The other option is to find a GM Ministarter from a later model truck (if you wanted to go junk yarding). Swapped the direct drive starter to a gear reduction one on my 1996 2500 and it made a huge difference in starting the motor (and I didn't have starting problems to begin with)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1931&ppt=C0330
As far as the Skip White one, I personally have not run one, but I was planning to. You just need to make sure your block is drilled for the straight across pattern. They had a bad rep for a long time, but my understanding is they have resolved a lot of those issues. The other option is to find a GM Ministarter from a later model truck (if you wanted to go junk yarding). Swapped the direct drive starter to a gear reduction one on my 1996 2500 and it made a huge difference in starting the motor (and I didn't have starting problems to begin with)
It's kinda weird, they worked from the factory but there seem to have problems nowadays.
Mini-starters rock. She spins like the plugs are out.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3678/overview/
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/.../photo_07.html
the heat blanket used in this article is here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14150/overview/
Last edited by Brians1; Sep 9, 2014 at 10:10 AM.























