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rebuilt top end - compression too much for battery

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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 09:25 AM
  #21  
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I'd start with a fresh battery. Mine was behaving the same; hard to turn over after driving even a short distance. Now, even after driving, it spins right over.
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Brians1
I may try this first - battery replacement since the one in there now isn't even correct, and its old...my exact symptoms
How did you make out?
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SLVRSHRK
That cable is a pain to replace as it runs over the top of the transmission in the tunnel, so I would suggest exhausting all other options first, but it is something to keep in mind.
I had all of these problems. After swapping starters and wrapping headers a few times, I noticed the ground from frame to block undersized.

Ordered new cables from http://custombatterycables.com/. That is what finally fixed my problem. Here is my current set up.

1000 cranking amp, top post battery.

1/0 ga ground to frame with blade type disconnect

1/0 ga ga Positive to starter

PMGR GM starter. (2000 Escalade)

4 ga ground from motor mount to frame

Additional 4 ga braided ground from starter to frame

Spins fine after hour long drive in 101* outside temps.

Last edited by johnt365; Sep 7, 2014 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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so i took the car for another spin around the block..im really leaning towards heat now...the headers i have are patriot headers (the true dual kit from corvette central). The pass side header basically touches the "tit" if the starter that sticks out.
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 03:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
How did you make out?
I'm picking up a new battery tomorrow as autozone is close to my office so I'll know tomorrow evening after I install it when I get home from work
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 04:21 PM
  #26  
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I had the same problem.

Everyone was preaching about heat problems...

Basically the wiring gets too hot and it increases the resistance in the starting circuit.
5 options that will help.

New higher amp battery.
*More power to the circuit
-This is a temporary fix. After a year of so the same issues may crop up again.

Heat shielding
*Less heat = always good
- After very long trips this ends up being useless due to heat soak. Great solution for most drivers.

New mini starter
*lower amps required in the circuit.
- Can get pricey. May require shimming. Labor intensive.

New wiring
*lower resistance in the circuit.
- Will fix the issue. VERY labor intensive. Can be expensive.

New high preformance ignition coil. *my choice*
*More power.
- Relatively cheap and easy to install.

I got stuck in the parking lot at work for 2 hours in 95+ heat. Single click and then nothing, it would kill all the electrical in the car. I finally got a friend with a large truck to jump me. His battery had enough spare amps to get my girl started but we ended up popping a fusible link.
I replaced the ignition coil and havent had an issue since.

The battery was new and the original ignition coil worked fine in a different vehicle.
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 04:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by drkness01
I had the same problem.

Everyone was preaching about heat problems...

Basically the wiring gets too hot and it increases the resistance in the starting circuit.
5 options that will help.

New higher amp battery.
*More power to the circuit
-This is a temporary fix. After a year of so the same issues may crop up again.

Heat shielding
*Less heat = always good
- After very long trips this ends up being useless due to heat soak. Great solution for most drivers.

New mini starter
*lower amps required in the circuit.
- Can get pricey. May require shimming. Labor intensive.

New wiring
*lower resistance in the circuit.
- Will fix the issue. VERY labor intensive. Can be expensive.

New high preformance ignition coil. *my choice*
*More power.
- Relatively cheap and easy to install.

I got stuck in the parking lot at work for 2 hours in 95+ heat. Single click and then nothing, it would kill all the electrical in the car. I finally got a friend with a large truck to jump me. His battery had enough spare amps to get my girl started but we ended up popping a fusible link.
I replaced the ignition coil and havent had an issue since.

The battery was new and the original ignition coil worked fine in a different vehicle.
When you say the ignition coil...you mean the portion of the starter correct ?
I have an MSD coil in my HEI dizzy

Also when it's cold...takes 3 or 4 cranks before she will fire off ...that indicate the starter as well over heat or battery ?

Last edited by Brians1; Sep 7, 2014 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #28  
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So I ran the car in the driveway for 10 min last night. Shut it off..waited 2 min..tried to start - it was like a dead battery...barely even turning over a full rotation.

** I haven't changed anything yet - been locked up at office - cant even get lunch (ughhh) let along get to parts store

My father-in-law was over and witnessed it in person...he pinged me later in the evening with a thread he found on Heat soak for starters that have close fits aftermarket headers (what I have)....I checked all wires...in great shape, connected firmly and no corrosion....

so I guess I have a heat soak issue on my starter as most have indicated on here.
Where do I find a "mini starter" and a heat shield for it? And whats it gonna cost me ? LOL

My luck when I take it to gas station I'll be stuck there until it cools off...I'm not about to deal with that...

My buddy has a lift and I'm taking it next weekend to his place so we can do the bushings, springs, and shocks...since it will be on the lift...its the best time to replace the starter....
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Starter solenoid is kuput. Starter itself is likely fine. Just replace the solenoid and check results.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Starter solenoid is kuput. Starter itself is likely fine. Just replace the solenoid and check results.
this one I assume...
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1955-1981.html
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #31  
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Mini starter: http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...Item=3HP-BLACK

Replacing the solenoid is only a half fix as the heat can easily just kill it again.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Brians1
Local parts store should have it in stock
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 09:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Amorget
Local parts store should have it in stock
Crazy as this sounds...Autozone is double the price over Ecklers...! It must be getting ready to snow in FL...lol

the Link you provided for the mini starter - 70 bucks - I'm just about sold at that price and its a lifetime warranty as well...rather compelling. Do you run this one? Others on here run it, like it?
*** Autozone price for the starter sol is 42 bucks - thats 3/4th the cost of the mini starter....
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 10:06 PM
  #34  
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Do you have an O'Reilly auto near you? 20 bucks...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1931&ppt=C0330

As far as the Skip White one, I personally have not run one, but I was planning to. You just need to make sure your block is drilled for the straight across pattern. They had a bad rep for a long time, but my understanding is they have resolved a lot of those issues. The other option is to find a GM Ministarter from a later model truck (if you wanted to go junk yarding). Swapped the direct drive starter to a gear reduction one on my 1996 2500 and it made a huge difference in starting the motor (and I didn't have starting problems to begin with)
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 10:25 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Amorget
Do you have an O'Reilly auto near you? 20 bucks...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1931&ppt=C0330

As far as the Skip White one, I personally have not run one, but I was planning to. You just need to make sure your block is drilled for the straight across pattern. They had a bad rep for a long time, but my understanding is they have resolved a lot of those issues. The other option is to find a GM Ministarter from a later model truck (if you wanted to go junk yarding). Swapped the direct drive starter to a gear reduction one on my 1996 2500 and it made a huge difference in starting the motor (and I didn't have starting problems to begin with)
Yea have a few close by...16 bucks is a good gamble for now
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #36  
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My stock L36 ate a parts house rebuilt starter every year or so. I got a Summit min-starter 10 years ago and never looked back.
It's kinda weird, they worked from the factory but there seem to have problems nowadays.
Mini-starters rock. She spins like the plugs are out.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #37  
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what do you guys think about this...along with replacing the solenoid ...?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3678/overview/
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To rebuilt top end - compression too much for battery

Old Sep 9, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #38  
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Also I found this great writeup that uses the Mini starter and a heat blanket....mayb e I should just do both? I called and chatted with White perf this AM on their mini starter to get familiar with it..all good information, and he recommended a heat blanket as well from Summit or Jegs, etc.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/.../photo_07.html

the heat blanket used in this article is here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14150/overview/

Last edited by Brians1; Sep 9, 2014 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 10:41 AM
  #39  
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go with a mini starter that shield alone is about half what i paid for my starter. once you have one you will see the difference.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #40  
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I'd buy a starter from summit, no question return policy, they stand behind their sales.
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