I discovered a pin hole in the rear cross over so I need to replace it. My problem is the nut on the LR is rounding off. There isn't much room in that area so I'm at loss as to how get that brake out of the block. Is there a trick to this?

I thought about replacing the whole brake line (front to back) but I have no idea how to remove the line clip bolt that holds the brake line and fuel to the rear cross member. There is no room to get a wrench in there. Is there a trick to this also other than lifting the body off the car??

Car is a 72 BB.

 

Anyone have any thoughts? I know there are smart folks here that must have come across this problem and have goods ideas. Thx

 

YES. Get ready to have some serious FUN.

Knowing that you are going to replace the line....you have to be ready to cap off this brass junction block fitting port when you do get the line off...or you will drain the master cylinder and this is NOT GOOD and you will spend even more time on this....which may occur anyway. It will ALL depend on if you get this left line off the junction block. You can...

Option 1) Cut the line with a pair of wire cutters and use a 6 point socket and ratchet. Making sure you hold on the junction block with an open end wrench to keep it from moving. YES...this may require heating. grinding on and bending wrench to fit...like the ones I have custom bent in my tool box for numerous areas on Corvette. main thing is to try to keep the bracket that the junction block is clipped to from moving about.

Option 2) Clamping on the flare nut with a pair of Vise-grips and getting it to break free.

I can not tell you which option to do first. It is a 'Cath22'. Cut the line so you can use a 6 point socket and you have dripping fluid...and it may still require Vise grips. Use the Vise grips first and ruin the flare nut...then 6 point socket may not work.....BUT...sometimes I have butchered the rounded off flare nut and got the socket to fit tight when I tapped it onto it.

I do this for a living so I have no worries when it comes to loosing all the fluid out of the master cylinder due to having a pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes.

IF you can not get the line off this block...the procedure to get it off will require removing the rear line that is attached to the frame...which is where all the FUN begins.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB, I'll give that shot.

 

DUB, I tried and failed. The 6 point socket rounded the nut and the vice grips and heat sheared the main brake line...or perhaps the noob did it. So now the main line needs to be replaced, which doesn't necessarily bother me, it looks rough.

It appears all of the clip bolts are accessible except two. The one on the rear cross member looks reachable with a box wrench but that other one about midway up the frame rail does not look reachable with anything. Suggestions on how to swap this line out? Does this job require partial body lift to access those bolts?

 

Photo of the block.

 

Ranger24, I would change all of your brake lines to be safe. If they twisted off that easily, than they are all "may pops". Trust me, changing the brake lines are a lot easier than trying to change the two fuel lines, due to the body by the right rear wheel. I would purchase new brass blocks, also. I use never seize on the tube end (not the inside of the flare) and on the nuts threads, cause you never know, when you might have to take it apart again. Lou.

 

clamp those fittings in a big vise, and use a wrench to turn the block,
then clean and reuse the block, no need to replacethe block, ... yet.

 

I plan to but those 2 clip bolts on the main line the runs down the frame rail are going to be a bitch. Still not sure how to get them.

 

The worst bolt is the one bolt right near the junction block.

I have never had to lift the body to do this.....you are opening up a 'CAN OF WORMS' if you plan on doing that.

The car needs to be up so you can work under it ...obviously...but also so you can get the new line in also.

I will not HESITATE to cut a socket, wrench or whatever I need to custom make a tool to fit a tight spot. Because the time I spend making tools is WAY less than fighting with trying to lift the body and encounter problems on a much LARGER SCALE.

Also...I have made a special crowfoot flare wrench that can go on a ratchet so I can tighten the main line to this junction block when installed.

And...when I am installing the main line and get it to go through the opening in the transmission crossmember...I then install the junction block and tighten it as best as I can and hope for the best that it does not leak.,...but if it does...I have that crow foot tool to tighten the main line fitting to this junction block when it is clipped to the mount bracket.

DUB

 

I replaced all the brake lines on my 76 . Sacrificed a 1/4 drive socket to get to the bad ones . Ground it down to fit and used channel locks to loosen . Good luck ! You can do it without taking the body off .
Redboat

 

Thanks DUB, looks like I'll be cutting down some sockets and wrenches to make this will work because I sure as hell do not want more worms crawling around on this job...right, I know, wishful thinking. I have the car up on a Kwik Lift so there is plenty of room to work. Attached is a pic so you can see the setup.

 

Thanks Redboat, good to know. I'll start the process this weekend so hopefully with all the good advice I'll be able to get the job done.

 

Totally. Totally. True.

Hack, grind, bend, do whatever it takes to make the tool you need. Sometimes the ugly tools work the best!

 

Annnnnnnnnnnd.......be sure to put all modified tools in a certain "Vette-Only" drawer in your tool chest.......may as well tag each tool also........

Then......10 years from now you'll remember what those "goofy-looking-tools" are for..........LOL!

 

Sometime back in the early 80's, I bought a pipe wrench, about 8 inches overall, to get aspirator valves and fuel line fittings off when they were rounded off. I have never seen another one of these for sale, but it has been great for rounded fittings like you describe. It has paid for itself many times over the years.

 

Ranger24,
With the car being up on a lift like you have it....this will definitely make it a bit easier.

DUB

 

DUB, you were right, what a PITFA. I was able to remove the main line and install the new main but it took every four letter word known to get through it. I never want to do that again!

Thought I'd share one of the tools I fabricated to help get this done. You can't see it in the photo but I cut the wrench in half and then riveted it back together to create an offset hing. Worked pretty well on a couple of the bolts.

Thanks to everyone who contributed.

 

Yeah...it is just what you wrote...a PITFA...but it is do-able. The part I hate the most is trying to get that one bolt started.....from that...I think it is a 'piece of cake'. And that is also if I have to contend with the fuel vapor line also.....that makes it a REALLY FUN task.

I hope that the flare fitting on the main line going to the brass junction block does not leak....that is where I made a custom flare nut tightening tool to tighten it also.

Glad that you got it in.

DUB

 

Ranger, I could not help but notice that you have your strut rod bracket installed upside down on the bottom of your differential. Did you realize that, or is there a reason for it? Lou.