Pulled engine, rebuild or crate?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,422
Likes: 955
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I just did the same but cheated a little having a local engine builder handle all the short block items-pistons/rings, bearings, new balancer, balancing engine and then clutch assembly, polishing the L-82 crankshaft, reconditioning the rods etc. I pretty much did everything else. It was a great experience but a B*ll buster at times but would do it again in a heartbeat-no pun intended….
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
In the Oldsmobile world there are no crate engines so I've had to build many myself. The Chevy world however is a completely different story, you can get any size or flavor you want as a crate. I agree the first couple times it's fun to build your own, but after a while it becomes a PIA running back and forth the the machine shop, hoping the machine work on the block, crank and heads is done right, ordering parts, prepping parts, assembly. I'm older, I've been in the hobby a long time, crates are easier and that works for me. Plus most include a warranty against defects.
Pro
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 672
Likes: 31
From: Rapid City South Dakota
That said price and horsepower is great. You can build a 500 horsepower 383 for $5000 or $9000. Look at the parts list in the Ultrastreet engines. Dart SHP block and heads, Fully forged, Mahle pistons, High quality parts throughout.
Fast, durable, cheap. Pick 2.
EVERY time I cut a corner to save money on a high RPM and/or high HP build it comes back to bite me. I haven't bough from Vortecpro but have heard good feedback. Get a parts list.
Fast, durable, cheap. Pick 2.
EVERY time I cut a corner to save money on a high RPM and/or high HP build it comes back to bite me. I haven't bough from Vortecpro but have heard good feedback. Get a parts list.
I realize also that machine work is very important, my dad being a tool and die machinist making aerospace parts. It's hard for the average guy to evaluate quality machining.
I'm not disagreeing with what you are saying, but I took the short cut and did the research that I felt matters most, which is the engines make the power stated and they hold together based on lots of enthusiasts experience out there.
I've lost the receipts in my move or I would list them here. (The brand of parts)
Last edited by lurch59; Sep 18, 2014 at 04:25 PM. Reason: not clear
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 9
From: KB7TIF Ville NV
I've just broken in a 540 and I hope there isn't a new engine in my future, but if so, it will be a Shafiroff or Mark Jones crate.
Planning, knowing what you want and doing the research are very important, but you never know what will happen.
I've had 2 engines professionally built, both had instant rear main seal leaks. Both builders had 20 to 30 years experience. The second engine was supposed to be a 625hp 468, it made 525 hp as verified on a chassis dyno. That was 15 hp more than the 427 it was replacing. Heads didn't make the power they should have, porting and chamber work by the builder. He had a flow bench too.
I have a lot of parts, including 3 sets of BB cylinder heads, 2 in aluminum. So after the 468 failure, I bought a 540 short block from Shafiroff and planned on using a set of heads I already had. I got several recommendations for a local engine shop that specialized in cylinder head work. They ported the heads, flowed one and refreshed both. The flow results were hardly better than the stock numbers and all the valves, which they had lapped, were thrown in a box with all the location markings buffed off. What good is lapping the valves and then putting them back in the wrong holes?
Like I say, you just never know what you're getting.
Planning, knowing what you want and doing the research are very important, but you never know what will happen.
I've had 2 engines professionally built, both had instant rear main seal leaks. Both builders had 20 to 30 years experience. The second engine was supposed to be a 625hp 468, it made 525 hp as verified on a chassis dyno. That was 15 hp more than the 427 it was replacing. Heads didn't make the power they should have, porting and chamber work by the builder. He had a flow bench too.
I have a lot of parts, including 3 sets of BB cylinder heads, 2 in aluminum. So after the 468 failure, I bought a 540 short block from Shafiroff and planned on using a set of heads I already had. I got several recommendations for a local engine shop that specialized in cylinder head work. They ported the heads, flowed one and refreshed both. The flow results were hardly better than the stock numbers and all the valves, which they had lapped, were thrown in a box with all the location markings buffed off. What good is lapping the valves and then putting them back in the wrong holes?
Like I say, you just never know what you're getting.
Like your choices
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 850
Likes: 12
From: Shakopee MN
decided to shelve the original #'s matching engine
I haven't been able to get this off my brain since I pulled the engine: crate or rebuild.
After talking with a local builder and the costs involved, and after all of that just having the block leftover and that's it, I think I'll be better suited by just buying a crate motor and storing the original.
For the price of the machine work alone on my block, I can get a new Dart SHP block that has 4-bolt mains, priority main oiling, built for roller lifters, and other goodies.
After talking with a local builder and the costs involved, and after all of that just having the block leftover and that's it, I think I'll be better suited by just buying a crate motor and storing the original.
For the price of the machine work alone on my block, I can get a new Dart SHP block that has 4-bolt mains, priority main oiling, built for roller lifters, and other goodies.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 9
From: KB7TIF Ville NV
I haven't been able to get this off my brain since I pulled the engine: crate or rebuild.
After talking with a local builder and the costs involved, and after all of that just having the block leftover and that's it, I think I'll be better suited by just buying a crate motor and storing the original.
For the price of the machine work alone on my block, I can get a new Dart SHP block that has 4-bolt mains, priority main oiling, built for roller lifters, and other goodies.
After talking with a local builder and the costs involved, and after all of that just having the block leftover and that's it, I think I'll be better suited by just buying a crate motor and storing the original.
For the price of the machine work alone on my block, I can get a new Dart SHP block that has 4-bolt mains, priority main oiling, built for roller lifters, and other goodies.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 334
Likes: 6
I decided to add a new view to an old "crate vs. rebuild" thread.
My (original block) 350 has been "rebuilt with performance parts" sometime ago. It does run pretty strong but does leak oil and without tearing it down I really don't have an idea what was done or what's left of it.
So here's my plan:
1. I am going to pull it and put in a crate engine so I can drive the car and have fun with the car while I....
2....tear down and inspect the "original" rebuilt engine and rebuild it if it is viable.
3. If the rebuild not worth it, I will leave the crate engine in the car.
4. If the rebuild is worth it, I will make something fun and put the "original" engine back in the car. Then I will go put the crate in some other car.
My (original block) 350 has been "rebuilt with performance parts" sometime ago. It does run pretty strong but does leak oil and without tearing it down I really don't have an idea what was done or what's left of it.
So here's my plan:
1. I am going to pull it and put in a crate engine so I can drive the car and have fun with the car while I....
2....tear down and inspect the "original" rebuilt engine and rebuild it if it is viable.
3. If the rebuild not worth it, I will leave the crate engine in the car.
4. If the rebuild is worth it, I will make something fun and put the "original" engine back in the car. Then I will go put the crate in some other car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
This "factory" engine on my '73 is number matched to the frame, but it sure doesn't act like a 190 HP mill. Seemed like a whole lot more. So, before I tear it down (was consuming oil), I bought one of these to see if the previous owner changed the cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4790
The car's performance says he did.
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; Oct 20, 2014 at 05:23 AM. Reason: sp
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote