Steering column lock and ignition switch
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 104
From: Stafford Va
Steering column lock and ignition switch
I am going to replace my ignition switch on my 71 but I want to get rid of the safety devise to prevent the steering wheel from locking. I can not find the article I saw a while back that covered how to do that. Help is welcomed
thanks
thanks
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 423
Likes: 25
From: Boca Raton Florida
The electrical part of the ignition switch is down at the bottom of the column…the key part will pop out with a pin and a slight turn….neither will get you to the part where the lock pin is. That will take you disassembling the upper part of the column to get to. If I had pictures I would walk you through it but trying to explain would take some time and be very confusing sorry. Try searching the forum for a thread that shows pictures.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
I thinnk that you want to remove the cable from the transmission to your steering column. Disconnect the cable at the lever that sticks out of the lower section of the steering column (out under the hood and under the brake master cylinder.) Now you want to fix the steering column lever in the UP position. (It would be at the 1 o'clock position if you could see if from the driver seat.)
With the lever permanently in the UP position, you will be able to shut off the engine but you will also be able to keep on rotating the ignition key until you lock the steering wheel. The cable connected to the column lower lever prevented you from reaching the steering wheel lock unless you were in PARK (auto trans) or REVERSE (manual shift).
Jim
With the lever permanently in the UP position, you will be able to shut off the engine but you will also be able to keep on rotating the ignition key until you lock the steering wheel. The cable connected to the column lower lever prevented you from reaching the steering wheel lock unless you were in PARK (auto trans) or REVERSE (manual shift).
Jim
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 423
Likes: 25
From: Boca Raton Florida
OK, I am confused….are you trying to get rid of the feature that locks your steering wheel when the key is out…or….make it so you can take the key out of the ignition with the car still in something other then park (or reverse if manual)????
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 104
From: Stafford Va
I am probably not very clear but I want to make sure that my steering wheel has ZERO chance of being locked and no issues with the key and the ignition. Thanks
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ica-kinda.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ica-kinda.html
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 423
Likes: 25
From: Boca Raton Florida
OK so you will need to take apart the upper part of the steering column to accomplish this task…unless I am just lost here which happens lol. Take off the horn stuff and the steering wheel..under that you will see a black flat plate with notches around the outside. That is where the pin slides into what turns to lock the wheel. You need to either trim back the pin that locks into that plate or remove the pin entirely. I cannot remember how far the pin fits up into the housing that it is sliding through so you can try just trimming it back so that it will not lock into the plate and see what happens. Sorry but it has been about ten years since I rebuilt one lol. I would think someone here could provide pics for you….I will do some looking on the internet and see if I can find one.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 423
Likes: 25
From: Boca Raton Florida
The flat black plate is the locking plate…there is a pin that slides into it about 2 o'clock that moves with the key position and is spring loaded. Either trim back that pic or remove it to make is so that you can turn the wheel when the key is removed.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
That pin is hardened. You will not easily trim it back. You will need to disassemble the whole upper head to just remove it. It can be done.
If you are so worried about locking the steering wheel while driving, why not just install the original steering column/transmission shift interlock system? It will prevent you from removing your ignition key and locking your steering wheel unless you are in PARK (auto trans) or in REVERSE (manual trans). That would seem to eliminate your worries.
BTW, do you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a tilt & telescoping type steering column. They both have hardened locking pins, but they are a bit different in how they operate.
Jim
If you are so worried about locking the steering wheel while driving, why not just install the original steering column/transmission shift interlock system? It will prevent you from removing your ignition key and locking your steering wheel unless you are in PARK (auto trans) or in REVERSE (manual trans). That would seem to eliminate your worries.
BTW, do you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a tilt & telescoping type steering column. They both have hardened locking pins, but they are a bit different in how they operate.
Jim
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 104
From: Stafford Va
I have the original tilt steer column and just want to make sure the steering wheel can not lock on me period. I do not get some where and the damn key will not come out or the interface with the column lock and ignition is locked. I plan to do some auto cross and fun road racing so that is my thought process. Thanks for your comments
Kevin
Kevin
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 104
From: Stafford Va
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Basically, you want to disassemble the steering column head to the point where you can remove the "grasshopper" spring and then remove the locking bolt.
Here are a series of papers that will walk you to the point where you can reach the spring, sector, and locking bolt. You probably don't have to remove the steering column from the car since you should be able to pull the turn signal switch out of the column head far enough to pull the turn signal switch housing and reach the locking bolt.
Here are links to three papers and three pages of pics to assist you.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1009
Jim
Here are a series of papers that will walk you to the point where you can reach the spring, sector, and locking bolt. You probably don't have to remove the steering column from the car since you should be able to pull the turn signal switch out of the column head far enough to pull the turn signal switch housing and reach the locking bolt.
Here are links to three papers and three pages of pics to assist you.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1009
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
I am trying to find out the many functions of the "grasshopper" spring shown above. One end of the spring definately is attached to the locking bolt. That end is useless if there is no bolt in place.
The other end of the spring is attached to the housing with a screw. That end needs to be retained along with the screw. Now the center portion of the spring reaches into the plastic sector. I assume it preloads the sector so that it doesn't feel loose as the sector attaches to the lock cylinder and engages the teeth on the die cast rack.
Maybe you should cutoff the end of the spring that should attaches to the locking bolt. You certainly don't want that loose end flopping around. However, you also don't want the spring "walking" out of the sector. You will just have to cut and try things. That multifunction spring was there for a couple reasons and I just am not that familiar with the design when you eliminate the locking bolt.
Jim
The other end of the spring is attached to the housing with a screw. That end needs to be retained along with the screw. Now the center portion of the spring reaches into the plastic sector. I assume it preloads the sector so that it doesn't feel loose as the sector attaches to the lock cylinder and engages the teeth on the die cast rack.
Maybe you should cutoff the end of the spring that should attaches to the locking bolt. You certainly don't want that loose end flopping around. However, you also don't want the spring "walking" out of the sector. You will just have to cut and try things. That multifunction spring was there for a couple reasons and I just am not that familiar with the design when you eliminate the locking bolt.
Jim