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Are you changing cams? If not I'd just go with the .015" to try keep the quench down, with the new heads it will run better than it did with the 882s. Changing the cam and trying to run a higher dynamic compression, it might be worth while to deck the block, if all your changing is the heads even running the .028" it will run better, but I'd at least use the thinnest gasket I could could. I've never ran one of the steel shim gaskets besides what might have came that way, so I don't know if you need a special finish on the block.
58cc combustion chambers, D port exhaust and are identical to what was on the ZZ4 350 HO motor, that GM sold through their Performance line. That and a good 262 or 268 cam, would've gotten you a very fun combination.
That's almost the same thing I did also. The old short block I had was using .060 over pistons that were .048 down in the hole. Here is a link to some dyno results those pistons made. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mp-xe268h.html
It's not amazing but it made decent power for a few years. I used a .039 head gasket but the heads were 60cc chambers. This was an UNquench motor.
I used the Felpro .015 shim gasket with no special prep on the block just cleaned it up well, and aluminum heads.
Just applied some copper coat to both sides of the gasket to ensure the seal. 3500 miles later, no leaks.
Bummer that the pistons are so far down the hole. I guess if it was me and I didn't want to replace the pistons I would give the .015 gasket a go and see how it did.
Thanks guys I'm feeling better about this now. I get a little wound up when things don't
go as planned. Last question then im goin at it, Dart rec. 70 ft/lb with oil on the bolts. Does that still apply when using sealer on the threads? Others state 65 dry.
Thanks guys I'm feeling better about this now. I get a little wound up when things don't
go as planned. Last question then im goin at it, Dart rec. 70 ft/lb with oil on the bolts. Does that still apply when using sealer on the threads? Others state 65 dry.
Dry torque would be higher, no lube creates higher friction. I always use ARP bolts and their lube.
I'd use new head bolts, especially if considering reusing the factory head bolts. Once the bolts are torqued a few time it takes some of the elasticity out of the bolt and they don't clamp as well.
Last edited by SteveCurry; Sep 13, 2014 at 12:05 PM.
It's better than dry but it's not really a lubricant. If it were me, and the bolt head and washer are lubed, I'd torque the bolts with sealer to lubed specs.
The bolts i have now were new when the882s were installed. this would be the second time. does the sealer also serve as a lubricant?
I'd torque them at 70 ft lbs and unless your using a quality head bolts it's not the best idea to reuse the bolts, however when I was sixteen and flipping burgers after school, I reused old factory head bolts and never had any issues but I wouldn't do it today.