Temperature Sending Unit Wire Routing?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 452
Likes: 121
Temperature Sending Unit Wire Routing?
I have a new Temperature Sending Unit and the Wire with the Thermal Shielding. I know where the Unit goes and where to hook it up inside on the Gauge, but I cannot figure where it passes thru the Firewall...
The Wire is very short, so it either connects to a Connector -or- it goes thru the Firewall direct to the Gauge???
Anybody have any Clarity on this?
Pictures would be helpful too, cause I plan on dumping a little Coolant on myself and Garage this weekend when I put a New Temp Sending Unit in and Wiring the Gauge Up. Especially since my new 68 Convertible came without the Unit or the Wire... I figured being able to monitor temp just might be a good idea...
The Wire is very short, so it either connects to a Connector -or- it goes thru the Firewall direct to the Gauge???
Anybody have any Clarity on this?
Pictures would be helpful too, cause I plan on dumping a little Coolant on myself and Garage this weekend when I put a New Temp Sending Unit in and Wiring the Gauge Up. Especially since my new 68 Convertible came without the Unit or the Wire... I figured being able to monitor temp just might be a good idea...
Last edited by Kruegmeister; Sep 11, 2014 at 11:56 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I hope you did your homework to verify you have the new "correct" sending unit.
I highly suggest you test your new sending unit, and Gauge, then install.
Boil water on the stove use a good thermometer, connect your sensor wire and gnd the sensor.
A heater hose clamp works well to hold gnd wire on sensor.
Use a regular ext cord to run your wires back out to the car, turn on the car read your gauge.
I highly suggest you test your new sending unit, and Gauge, then install.
Boil water on the stove use a good thermometer, connect your sensor wire and gnd the sensor.
A heater hose clamp works well to hold gnd wire on sensor.
Use a regular ext cord to run your wires back out to the car, turn on the car read your gauge.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I would be SHOCKED if the dark green wire for your temperature sender is NOT in the bulkhead connector for your forward lamp wiring.
This job is NO FUN due to the vacuum storage tank. I think...if my memory serves me correctly it will take a 3/8" socket....and I would use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point socket...BECAUSE if you round off the head...you are screwed... TOTALLY.
ALSO...this is IMPORTANT!!!!! When you are loosening the bolt to remove the bulkhead connector...because BOTH of the wiring harness connectors come of at the same time....when you loosed the bolt about 3-5 turns...then STOP...and pull back on the bulkhead connector. See if you are getting it to come away from the firewall area. Then loosen it some more. When you see that is it backing off the bulkhead housing...you are in good shape and it should come off if you STOP and pull it back after several turns. When loosening this bolt...you will feel tension when you are getting it to the point that your can begin pushing out that staked nut.
IF you go in and try to take the bolt out on one motion.,..you can cause the special staked nut on the inside of the fuse panel to fall out...and when you go to put the wiring harness back in...you will not have that nut in place to do anything.
DUB
This job is NO FUN due to the vacuum storage tank. I think...if my memory serves me correctly it will take a 3/8" socket....and I would use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point socket...BECAUSE if you round off the head...you are screwed... TOTALLY.
ALSO...this is IMPORTANT!!!!! When you are loosening the bolt to remove the bulkhead connector...because BOTH of the wiring harness connectors come of at the same time....when you loosed the bolt about 3-5 turns...then STOP...and pull back on the bulkhead connector. See if you are getting it to come away from the firewall area. Then loosen it some more. When you see that is it backing off the bulkhead housing...you are in good shape and it should come off if you STOP and pull it back after several turns. When loosening this bolt...you will feel tension when you are getting it to the point that your can begin pushing out that staked nut.
IF you go in and try to take the bolt out on one motion.,..you can cause the special staked nut on the inside of the fuse panel to fall out...and when you go to put the wiring harness back in...you will not have that nut in place to do anything.
DUB
