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Hello--
I have a 75 Corvette that I have installed a BBC into it. I want to convert the steering over to the Borgeson steering box. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct part number to order?
GENUINE BORGESON POWER STEERING CONVERSION KIT FOR 67-82 CHEVY CORVETTE 999032
I already have the Saginaw pump, lines, new front control arms, pressure lines from VB&P.
Do I need any other parts to complete this project?
I found the Borgeson kit on eBay. Here is the information:
Power Steering Conversion Kit
This is a GENUINE BORGESON power steering conversion kit. These steering components are built in the USA to the absolute highest standards. Guaranteed highest quality available.
1967-1982 Corvette complete power steering conversion kit. For cars with factory style power steering and a 1"-48 spline column (Factory power steering on these cars was actually "power assist" - control valve and ram cylinder style).
Power Steering Conversion - Vehicles with Factory Style Power Steering and 1 inch 48 spline column
*IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to measure your steering column shaft. This is for 1" diameter 48 spline. If you need a different size, see our eBay store.
*Important* Please use the above information to determine if the part(s) in this listing fit your vehicle. Do not rely on the eBay 'compatibility' feature.
Is there a Corvette Forum Vendor that provides any discounts on these kits?
I also plan to change the steering column over to an Ididit or a Flaming River, but have not found one that lists for a 75.
If during you're planning on changing the steering column, your original column is collapsible in case of an accident. If this is important to you make sure your aftermarket column offers this feature. Does the kit include a Pitman arm and a draglink? These parts would be for a manual steer car and are different than a P/S car. T
I did a surch on the net for the 999032 and Summitt and Jegs had that number for about 700. All the kits are for cars with ps pump, box, rag joint, pitman arm, hoses and drag link are in the kits.
Your biggest concern is the rag joint if you are thinking of changing steering columns. The Pittman arm transfers from your original steering box to the Borgeson box. There is no drag link included with the kit. There is an adapter that replaces the control valve, and the hoses in the kit replace the original hoses from the pump to the control valve.
I did the conversion a few months ago and I couldn't be happier with the result.
Your biggest concern is the rag joint if you are thinking of changing steering columns. The Pittman arm transfers from your original steering box to the Borgeson box. There is no drag link included with the kit. There is an adapter that replaces the control valve, and the hoses in the kit replace the original hoses from the pump to the control valve.
I did the conversion a few months ago and I couldn't be happier with the result.
Rick B.
Thanks for all the reply's: I should start a poll, but I'm really on the fence with this mod. The Borgeson box upgrade has been getting rave reviews, but my car is really a retro-rod and I like the idea of freeing up some space on the drivers side of the car near the headers. I'm changing to a 31/2 collector Hooker Super Comp Headers and I 'm not really sure just how close they will be to the steering box. The Steroids kit which is twice the cost, uses a rag joint and eliminates the steering box. Anyone running a big block with the Borgeson box, or should I just save a few more buck and get the Steroids rack and pinion?
I can not answer the fitment question about the borg box and a big block but I can offer my thought on the conversion. I got my box from Van Steel and they were very helpful in offering advice and information. It all went together really well and I love the road feel and also the quicker steering. No more wondering and dead spot in the center of the steering that most C3 corvettes have.
With a factory power (assist) steering, you do not need the pump, but will need either a Borgeson Drag Link Adapter #990002 or a Manual drag link from a non-power steer car. You DO need these parts:-
The steering box #800108,
Hose Kit #925103,
Rag Joint #055043 IF you are keeping your original column/shaft.
As others said, you keep your original Pitman arm and therefore retain all of the factory designed linkages.
If you want to change your steering column, you NEED a collapsible one to keep your car legal. It is probably an offence in most states to remove such a vital safety item, it is in Australia.
Trouble is, I'm not aware of anyone making a tilt or collapsible column/shaft for a C3, so you might have to stay original there. If you have any further questions, ring Jeff at Borgeson on 1-860-482-8283. What he doesn't know about these kits is not worth knowing.
68 original tele columns are available once in a while.
Rgds. Günther
Just a final update. I did research the Borgeson Box and for the money, it is the best solution. I also looked at Steroid R&P and that kit is also well engineered. Then I contacted Flaming River and there new R&P is really cool because the brackets are already welded to the rack and it will install without any flex. In conclusion, I decided to go with a Flaming River FR30005-BK Steering Column, FRCA108 installation kit, and finally a FR312KT Manual Rack and Pinion. This will free up a lot of space on the drivers side for my larger headers and I'm only running 3 1/2 wide rims and MT Tires on the front, and this rack also allows for some additional clearance because my oil pan on the 582 BBC is about an inch deeper up front near the balancer. I'm hoping this will be the right choice. After all my 75 is a straight line car, and from what I've read hear on the forum, a lot of guys like there manual steering. No more leaks or Saginaw pump to deal with. Thanks for all the reply's. I will post some pics and shoot a video when I get it all installed.
If you are only doing mostly drag racing then a manual rack will be fine. You won't have any problems with it and no leaks and it will free up some room. I have had the stock system, Steeroids, and now run the Borgeson box. The Borgeson by far gives you the most room under the car but it may interfere on the side of the motor. The Flaming river rack will give plenty of header clearance.
If you are only doing mostly drag racing then a manual rack will be fine. You won't have any problems with it and no leaks and it will free up some room. I have had the stock system, Steeroids, and now run the Borgeson box. The Borgeson by far gives you the most room under the car but it may interfere on the side of the motor. The Flaming river rack will give plenty of header clearance.
Thanks Gordonm, I really appreciate the info. This is my first manual rack and pinion. I'm very curious to see how well it drives on the street. The skinny front rims and tires should allow it to turn fairly well.
I just installed a Borgeson conversion on my 68 that was a manual steering car. I removed the steering damper per some other threads I read. After new tires and front end alignment, the steering is horrible. The car will not stay straight and there is entirely too much play in the wheel. Do I need the steering damper? Any other ideas?
Probably should start a new thread, but that is definitely not right. How was the steering before? You must either have something loose or something worn out, have you checked idler arm, tie rod ends? Is your rear suspension in good order?
Probably should start a new thread, but that is definitely not right. How was the steering before? You must either have something loose or something worn out, have you checked idler arm, tie rod ends? Is your rear suspension in good order?
I replaced the entire front bushing set, ball joints, tie rods, springs, shocks, rear spring, rear shocks, and all bushing except trailing arm bushings. I did not replace the idler arm, but I will check to see if there is play. The steering and suspension was horrible when I bought it, so I replaced everything including the power steering. The suspension and ride feel better, but the steering is horrible.
Do I need the steering damper? I did not put it back on when I replaced everything.
What should a call the new thread to get attention? I will also take some pictures to post along with the thread.
I replaced the entire front bushing set, ball joints, tie rods, springs, shocks, rear spring, rear shocks, and all bushing except trailing arm bushings. I did not replace the idler arm, but I will check to see if there is play. The steering and suspension was horrible when I bought it, so I replaced everything including the power steering. The suspension and ride feel better, but the steering is horrible.
Do I need the steering damper? I did not put it back on when I replaced everything.
What should a call the new thread to get attention? I will also take some pictures to post along with the thread.
Make sure that the steering coupler/rag joint is secure. The set screw has to seat in the flat of the shaft that comes out of the gear box. Its been a few years but I think there is a small divot on that shaft. When I first installed my box the set screw was tight but not seated and I had a similar problem.
[QUOTE=live4corvette;1595292562]I just installed a Borgeson conversion on my 68 that was a manual steering car. I removed the steering damper per some other threads I read. After new tires and front end alignment, the steering is horrible. The car will not stay straight and there is entirely too much play in the wheel. Do I need the steering damper? Any other ideas?[/QUOTE.
After the Borg install you need a lot more caster than with manual steering. Not enough positive caster will result in the car wandering all over the place. 68s are the only manual steer C-3s to have that steer damper, P/S cars do not use them. As for the play, have a helper slowly rock the steer wheel back and forth just he distance of play while you inspect the linkage for slop. Depending on the vendor your steer gear came from, it might be a rebuilt, it may need adjustment, mine did. Is the ball socket adjusted properly? T
I just installed a Borgeson conversion on my 68 that was a manual steering car. I removed the steering damper per some other threads I read. After new tires and front end alignment, the steering is horrible. The car will not stay straight and there is entirely too much play in the wheel. Do I need the steering damper? Any other ideas?[/QUOTE.
After the Borg install you need a lot more caster than with manual steering. Not enough positive caster will result in the car wandering all over the place. 68s are the only manual steer C-3s to have that steer damper, P/S cars do not use them. As for the play, have a helper slowly rock the steer wheel back and forth just he distance of play while you inspect the linkage for slop. Depending on the vendor your steer gear came from, it might be a rebuilt, it may need adjustment, mine did. Is the ball socket adjusted properly? T
Thanks for the info Terry and thanks for all of your other posts. I am going to start a new thread with pictures of what I have done