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I have a 1972 Corvette with headers, an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and an Accel HEI ignition. All emissions equipment has been removed from the car. What would be the best spark plug and heat range to purchase? I only drive the car on weekends in good weather and do 40-60% city / highway driving.
I'd run the stock plug. There's plenty of spark plug Reading information on the web that you can reference for how engine is working with the heat range of the plug. Being basically stock with the intake and ignition mods, a stock plug will probably be sufficient. Good luck.
What gap are you all using? I see a lot of posts for 0.045. Book says 0.060. Recently went to NJ inspection and the idle HC tripled with new plugs at 0.045.
I have a 1972 Corvette with headers, an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and an Accel HEI ignition. All emissions equipment has been removed from the car. What would be the best spark plug and heat range to purchase? I only drive the car on weekends in good weather and do 40-60% city / highway driving.
Hotter ones if you spend more of your time at low rpm and cruising, cooler ones if it's hot where you are 100*f + and or spend more of your time at WOT.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Sep 22, 2014 at 09:45 AM.
If its a small block, AC R45S and big block R45XLS...good at all but a very few engines no matter what the HP...Plug gap is .035.....those wild gaps from the 70`s is the result of car companies trying to make the engines comply with emmissions and giving performance people like us headaches removing that junk or changing our cars to run better.....
Can anyone comment on the OPs conversion to HEI from points.
I have heard a .045 gap works better with HEI type ignitions? Or do you stay with the stock .035 gap used for stock points setup?
09-22-2014 02:47 PM
Is the best spark plug gap .040-.045 or still .035 when using an HEI ignition
I like to run the largest gap I can without misfire.
As your CR (cylinder pressure) increases the gap will need to be smaller to prevent misfire.
Larger gap is a larger spark. Better chance of lighting the fuel effeciently creating a better burn. A good burn starts with a good spark.
If you go too large of a gap you can get misfire.
I run .045 with good results at 9.9:1 CR up to 6000 RPM. However my cylinder pressure is reduced due to high altitude.
You may need to experiment some to find the best results.
Running a larger gap may also require advancing the timing to a small degree to get it to run the same as a previously smaller gap.
Here is what David Vizard has to say on the subject.
"Assuming the plug temperature rating is on the mark, the next issue to deal with is the plug gap and the form of the electrode. A very important issue to appreciate here is that ignition performance is a function of spark temperature and energy input. If the plug gap is very small , it takes minimal voltage to fire it and the energy involved is consequently low.
From this, it follows that a bigger gap discharges a spark at a higher energy level and that is exactly so. But a big gap uses coil output and, to an equal extent, causes a drop in the RPM to which the system can run before misfiring.
A general rule here is that you should run as large a plug gap as possible, consistent with the engines peak RPM. Another factor here is that the bigger the plug gap the more difficult it becomes for the plug cables to do their job before breaking down and firing sparks at random due to the higher resistance that the wide plug gap presents. Big plug gaps then require plug cables with a higher/better insulation value."
That is advice from an expert. From his book "How to build horsepower"
Keep in mind that every little bit counts. Add up a lot of little things and you get a big thing.
It take 100 pennies to get a dollar. So the penny in of itself is worth little, get enough of them and it equals a significant amount.
Any casino with penny slots proves this.
Theories dont always work in real life, dont care who wrote a book. Use the recommended gap with points or HEI, stock heat range that is ALL you need.
Dig into that carb if youre timing is correct, that is your problem. Opening gap is wasting your time and a band aid.
Find a buddy with a good known carb and try it out. Keep it simple!
Gaps were opened up and ignitions were upgraded to HEI because lean emissions engines REQUIRED the bigger gaps to fire the lean mixture reliably. If you are not running a lean emissions mixture you can close those gaps down to .035" and put less stress on your ignition system. Once the fire is lit, the job is done. More RPM available before ignition limits with regular gaps.
They adjusted the floats in the carb and got the carb running at 5lb and still running rich.Spark plugs fowled.
Unless your fuel pressure is too high and forcing past the float needle or too low to keep the bowl full it is not going to have an effect on running rich or lean. That being said 5 psi is just fine for the Q-jet.
Proper jetting and setting the float height correctly is important for mixture control.
Could also be that your choke is not opening fully.
Playing with the plugs is like a bandaid. That is unless you actually are using a plug too cold for the conditions you operate in. The plug has to achieve a certain temperature to self clean. Too cold and it will soot up.
Plug gap is not particularly relevant to weather the plug fowls or not.
Two things people over think when it comes to cars. Spark plugs and motor oil wt. Never seen anyone have a problem when using stock plugs. Have seen many issues when using something other than stock.