So ... one fix starts alot of problems.

A few months ago I noticed alot of play in the gas petal. The bracket holding the accelerator cable was loose. I readjusted it and went on my merry way.

Last night I noticed the petal sitting low again. I checked under the hood and the bracket had twisted. The bolt holding it was loose. I pulled the bolt and found that the PO had stripped the the threads in the manifold. Checked the other bolts and found a second hole that was stripped on the opposite corner. I pulled the carb, re-tapped the threads, and installed studs.

Sounds good so far ...

After re-installing the carb, I am now getting high idle speed (1100 rpms) surging at idle and during a quick drive my car dies when I come to a stop. I first though "vaccum leak". I plugged the vac ports on the carb and im still getting the inconsistant idle. I didnt test drive with the ports plugged since I had the PB disconnected.

I checked the basics and found plenty of vaccum on the ports and my timing is at 0* with the distributor vac disconnected.

Instead of creating new swear words and killing a six-pack, I figured I would ask the experts. What could be causing the issues and why did they pop up after I removed the carb?

Setup:
76
High mileage original engine
Stock cams
All smog and AC components removed (PO)
Edlebrock carb and intake
Hooker side pipes and headers.

 

did you test for a vaccum leak at the carburetor base to intake manifold? spray some carb cleaner around the base and see if the idle changes

Why is your timing set to 0, should be more even stock.

 

I believe the sticker indicates 8 degrees BTDC initial for a 76

 

Went to pep boys and grabbed a new gasket and the edlebrock gasket goo. I figured "why not. Its worth a shot." Worked like a charm.
Went ahead and vac tested the hoses while I had them disconnected. PB booster hose was crap, fuel line had a very small leak. Replaced them both.

So I just barely was able to fix the timing issue ...
It was set to 0* with the vac advance disconnected. I twisted the dizzy till the vac canister touched the intake and was just able to get it to 8*. I still feel like it needs to go a little higher but the manifold is in the way. Is there an easy way to get a few extra degrees?

Tweaking around with a vac gauge has me a little confused. Assuming the car has stock cams, how much vacuum should I be seeing at idle? Im getting about 18-19Hg @ 1000rpms. It seems high to me for a >200k mile engine. Since she is a daily driver for me, I havent taken the time off to pull the heads and see the PO's butchering inside. Would boreing an engine increase or decrease the vac?

Thanks everyone. Im slowly bringing this girl back from the dead.

 

I'd say you need to remove your distributor and reinstall it more clockwise from where it is. That way you can rotate it to get the advance you need. The 1969 AIM shows the vacuum canister tube pointing slightly more than 90* from the crankshaft centerline. In the mechanical tach era that orientation put the tach drive shaft at about 90* from the firewall, ensuring there were no kinks in the tach cable.
I realize you don't have a tach cable, but installing the distributor as specified will allow you to get all the advance you want/need.

Pete