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oh no another oil thread.

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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 12:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I don't know of one owner that runs a proper oil analysis program on their cars. Doing one every now and then is a waste of money. Doing them often enough would cost more than just changing the oil.
I do run a proper oil analysis program on my cars, so now you know one. If someone runs a few thousand miles in the summer months like a typical corvette owner, and conditions are pretty similar, I think testing at the end of a typical season would be useful. I've caught things like bad injectors by seeing an increase of fuel in the oil, which may have saved a burned piston and the cost of rebuilding the engine, so getting that kind of information isn't a waste of money. And I bet the cost of analysis is less than changing 5-6 quarts of good quality synthetic oil, and easier. Why dump perfectly good oil if you don't have to? Don't you love the planet, Mike?
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 03:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
well this ones different, i recently installed a 7 quart plus filter milodon pan with arp pan studs and jelling select pump and valvoline racing synthetic oil. my question is would he extra oil allow for less frequent changes, I'm not looking for you don't meed that big a pan or you didn't need that pump, i got it i like it, I'm keeping it.
Racing oil is best off changed @ low mileage <500. It has very little detergents and dispersants in it. Racing oil additive package is not designed to run 3000 miles or a year. Synthetic helps some. Extra capacity will buy you a little extra time.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 04:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lurch59
I do run a proper oil analysis program on my cars, so now you know one. If someone runs a few thousand miles in the summer months like a typical corvette owner, and conditions are pretty similar, I think testing at the end of a typical season would be useful.
A proper testing program would be once a month maximum. Once per year is pretty much when the oil runs out of time anyway.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #24  
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I had an oil change yesterday. Used Valvoline 10W-30 conventional oil and a NAPA/WIX #1061 large oil filter. Added a bottle of ZZDP. I will be driving tomorrow. Should I take out road insurance tonight? I don't think so.

Yes, Mike. Last ice cream run of the year! The Wife loves that village. I do too. Might even do the fish-and-chips thing at the pub although I do have to watch my cholesterol. Whatever, I am driving tomorrow. I don't care what my zinc and phosphorous levels are.

Photos at 3:00 pm tomorrow.

Last edited by Paul L; Sep 27, 2014 at 08:52 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
A proper testing program would be once a month maximum. Once per year is pretty much when the oil runs out of time anyway.
The recommendations for sampling intervals are according to time/hours of operation, or miles driven. It changes based on how close you are to being out of spec. I often go 2-3 years between changes and have had oil last up to 33,000 miles before a change was advised.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lurch59
The recommendations for sampling intervals are according to time/hours of operation, or miles driven. It changes based on how close you are to being out of spec. I often go 2-3 years between changes and have had oil last up to 33,000 miles before a change was advised.
So given the intervals you have experienced, once a year or ~6,000 miles, whichever comes first, when using synthetic oil shoud be safe FOR MOST OF OUR OLD CORVETTES.

Pete
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
So given the intervals you have experienced, once a year or ~6,000 miles, whichever comes first, when using synthetic oil shoud be safe FOR MOST OF OUR OLD CORVETTES.

Pete
Yes, and this is what Amsoil warranties, that it will last a year. No I am not an Amsoil dealer. Mobil 1 is pretty good stuff. If someone wanted to test the oil at the end of one season, it would only cost $25 to verify.
I've got a 700 hp big block in my '69, it cost me over 10k, and I'll be changing my oil once per year.....

Last edited by lurch59; Sep 27, 2014 at 10:00 PM. Reason: incomplete
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Racing oil is best off changed @ low mileage <500. It has very little detergents and dispersants in it. Racing oil additive package is not designed to run 3000 miles or a year. Synthetic helps some. Extra capacity will buy you a little extra time.


Valvoline lists the Total Base Number on their website at 8.5 for the synthetic racing oil, which is pretty high as racing oil's go. Total Base Number indicates how much detergent an oil has in it to resist acidic engine combustion byproducts that build-up in the oil over time. Most used oil analysis companies consider a TBN of 1.0 to indicate the oil's end of life. As this is extremely acidic, I personally don't take my oil's that low. As a comparison of TBN, AMSOIL's top tier 25k mile oils have a TBN of 12.6.

In my Vette, which uses AMSOIL's Dominator Racing Oil, I change the oil at about 500-1000 mile intervals (which is much more often than annually).
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