When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm looking at replacing the output seal of a '75, but couldn't tell if I was being mislead by the Haynes manual (yes, I ordered the service manual and it is on its way). I am being instructed to remove the bolts off of the aft end of the shaft, and pull the shaft out of the front. However, I'm looking at the space under there, and I'm not sure how to get around the structures next to it. Can someone please tell me if Haynes is smoking crack? If not, in what direction are you moving the shaft to separate it from the diff? Can you slide the shaft forward to separate it from the diff. If so, then what? I don't trust this book to venture off on my own and would appreciate any guidance in this regard. Thanks in advanced.
I doubt that you can pull the driveshaft out of the trans with the yoke still attached. I would advise disconnecting the yoke side as well, because if you pull it out of the trans, you are gonna have stinky gear lube all over your garage floor.
As far as the strap bolts, I believe they are 7/16. You may (or may not) have a hard time busting them loose, but it helps if the car is in gear so the drive shaft can't move. Loosen the bolts that you can get to, then put it in neutral and rotate the driveshaft by hand, position it so it to where you need to loosen the other bolts, and shift it into gear again to keep the drive shaft locked in place.
OR.
Use an air impact, that's what I did on mine. When you reinstall, tighten those strap bolts to 15 ftlbs.
I can't remember the order to do this in, I think you disconnect the bolts at the transmission first, then rotate the drive shaft and remove the bolts for each cap. Basically those 4 bolts are retaining two U-shaped u-joint caps. You'll have to loosen them with a small (7/16" I believe) open end wrench. It'll take time and it's annoying, but if you can get comfortable on your back it's not so bad. Nice to have a friend turn the wheel for you from the outside if you can.
Here's a picture of my original driveshaft after removal:
You can see some of the u-joint caps, with bolts, next to it.
And as ChinaSki said above, you have to unbolt both sides of the driveshaft.
It helps to have someone outside set the e-brake on the car and put it in park (I see you have an auto) so that you can break the bolts loose. Once they're loose you probably can hold the driveshaft with one hand while loosening with the other, or have said buddy hold the wheel.
Chinaski, SharkRacer, Excellent take! It came out as described (they are indeed 7/16 bolts, btw, good call)! I'm glad to know I'm not going nuts. thanks for the quick reply and advice!
I HATE to write this...but in most cases I have dealt with...the drive shaft WILL come out while still attached to the yoke in the transmission. Once the straps at eh differential are removed and marking its position to the flange at the differential. PUSH the drove shaft forward and it will come out.
n8Dog, I HOPE you marked the driveshaft PRIOR to you removing it!!!! How the driveshaft connects to the transmission yoke is important...and knowing what is the front and the rear also is important.
I KNOW it is not written in any early manuals. BUT in the C4 manuals...GM does want the drive shaft to be connected to the differential the same way...and not spun 180 degrees out. SO...I do it ...'just because it can not hurt'.
AND...if the rear is higher than the front...very little to basically no fluid will flow out.
DUB, I did indeed mark it; both sides of the shaft and the yoke. Had to use green paint lying around in the garage. I had already drained the fluid out, as I suspected the pan gasket was leaking too so I went for it. I just didn't fill her back up knowing that this project was right behind it. Thanks for the consideration though! Everything I've read on the topic confirms your remarks. Anyone referencing this thread should take heed.
When I did this on my '75 I only had very limited access to the u-joint strap bolts. I had somebody turn the shaft by rotating the rear tires (in neutral gear) until the nuts were exactly where I could access them with a ratcheting wrench. It wasn't fun, but was doable.
Drive shaft removal
Except that I have a 2 foot extension.