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I don't know the answer to your question but I'm sure any exhaust location will reach its highest temperature when the engine is under load, at wide open throttle. It would be difficult to shoot it with the IR gun then, unless you're on a chassis dyno.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alcor-EGT-Thermocouple-Probe-P-N-86258-WORKING-7027/111225754935?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3Daaa0b425bb28419696cfada1a11ca25d%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D321512751241
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321512751241?lpid=82
Steve
[QUOTE=Cavu2u;1587971033]I'm tempted to find out myself.
EGT probes require you to drill holes in your header tubes. You can buy temp. strips that just stick on your tubes and turn black when a temp is reached. They come in all temps generally they are three dots 25 degrees apart for ex. 500, 525,550 if you reach 525 the first 2 dots are black.
I'm tempted to find out myself.
EGT probes require you to drill holes in your header tubes. You can buy temp. strips that just stick on your tubes and turn black when a temp is reached. They come in all temps generally they are three dots 25 degrees apart for ex. 500, 525,550 if you reach 525 the first 2 dots are black.
Mine are in the 550 area at idle when warmed up without the header wrap
Neal
I have a couple of tubes with temps around 650+. I took the temps with an IR gun. I don't know if I have a problem with the engine. The header are ceramic coated. The coating looks like it's going bad on the tubes that are the hottest.
I switched to a NGK Iridium Spark Plug #7177 from AC Delco R43TS plugs. The AC Delco suggested the engine was rich (clean electrode strap but really sooty at the base). Not so with the HGK Iridium plug, clean electrode strap and a lot cleaner at the base. The engine loves the NGK plugs but I'm worried about the exhaust temps.
Last edited by wheatpj; Oct 4, 2014 at 11:32 PM.
Reason: More Info
I have a couple of tubes with temps around 650+. I took the temps with an IR gun. I don't know if I have a problem with the engine. The header are ceramic coated. The coating looks like it's going bad on the tubes that are the hottest.
I switched to a NGK Iridium Spark Plug #7177 from AC Delco R43TS plugs. The AC Delco suggested the engine was rich (clean electrode strap but really sooty at the base). Not so with the HGK Iridium plug, clean electrode strap and a lot cleaner at the base. The engine loves the NGK plugs but I'm worried about the exhaust temps.
GM ZZ383 I am using r42lts, my plugs started at black sooty. Install a zeitronix wide band O2 data logging system. Change the holley carb jets from 70 primary 75 secondary to 65-70, Now runs 12.5-13.2 at WOT. Timing 32 max at 3500. Plugs are now running light grey / brown. Also gained 0.56 at the 1/4 and added 3 MPH. I am running at 2200 ft elevation. Temps at idle are 555+ and after 1/4 mile runs 650-700 range. Before tunning temps were similar or near impossible to notice a difference.
I can't answer how hot my Corvette headers get, but I can say that if you have a powerful motorcycle with single tube headers and do an extended burnout at night the headers will glow bright orange.
It's easy with a bike, front brake fully on, get the rear tire spinning in first, and up shift a gear or two. Keep going until the tire gives up.
My point, is as stated in post #2, under load, the engine will generate mucho heat and the headers will prove it.
Pete
GM ZZ383 I am using r42lts, my plugs started at black sooty. Install a zeitronix wide band O2 data logging system. Change the holley carb jets from 70 primary 75 secondary to 65-70, Now runs 12.5-13.2 at WOT. Timing 32 max at 3500. Plugs are now running light grey / brown. Also gained 0.56 at the 1/4 and added 3 MPH. I am running at 2200 ft elevation. Temps at idle are 555+ and after 1/4 mile runs 650-700 range. Before tunning temps were similar or near impossible to notice a difference.
That would be a great tool to have. I always worry about getting the engine too lean and possibly hurting it.
That would be a great tool to have. I always worry about getting the engine too lean and possibly hurting it.
If you plan on keeping a carb in tune you cannot go wrong with O2 data loggers to determine AFR under different driving conditions. I also have a 6530 MSD Programable ignition to program a timing curve to match the AFR readings. Proper AFR allows less timing advance and cooler running temps without giving up performance. EFI is still the best way to go.
What temperature would header tubes typically reach on a properly operating engine?
Last time I zapped the header tubes with an IR gun (about one inch from the heads) the temps ranged from 360 to 440 degrees at idle after a long drive. (Whether or not my engine is "properly operating" or not is another story!)