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:Has anyone got some recommendations for replacing intake manifold carb and cam
Just looking to improve performance slightly
does anyone recommend a package
Thanks
what exhaust system do you have ?I like the elderbrock performer intake ,retain the stock Q-jet .the comp cam extreme 268 hydraulic flat tappet cam is a good fit .you will need new springs and rocker arms for it .get some new weights and springs for your distributor .
If you are going far enough to replace the cam, get rid of those awful original heads. Bite the bullet and spend the money for AFR's and a hydraulic roller cam. Comp Cams makes a 262 that has a stronger lower end.
Free Flowing Dual exhaust, proper tune, 180 operating temp, and proper distributor curve/timing will wake the motor up but it will never be a beast.
Really Good Heads and Roller cam will transform the car..
x3
Distributor curve transformed my car and cost a few bucks. HP/$$ very high. Just guessing, 185hp->~195hp, but lots of torque down low added.
Next up is header and dual exhaust, just about the same gains but now you're looking at numbers approaching 1k. I'd guess this took me to the 210, 220 hp range. Again, guessing...
Heads and cam, but a mismatched combo (very low static CR) took me to 243rwhp, 280rwtq, but at the cost of a loss in torque down low. Faster when you punched it, not as much fun just cruising around though. At about $2k outlay...
And Now I've put a *fair bit* of cash into the motor I have now, built right from carb to pan and that's given me all the torque I was missing from before and more power on top... but not cheap at all.
Distributor curve transformed my car and cost a few bucks. HP/$$ very high. Just guessing, 185hp->~195hp, but lots of torque down low added.
Next up is header and dual exhaust, just about the same gains but now you're looking at numbers approaching 1k. I'd guess this took me to the 210, 220 hp range. Again, guessing...
Heads and cam, but a mismatched combo (very low static CR) took me to 243rwhp, 280rwtq, but at the cost of a loss in torque down low. Faster when you punched it, not as much fun just cruising around though. At about $2k outlay...
And Now I've put a *fair bit* of cash into the motor I have now, built right from carb to pan and that's given me all the torque I was missing from before and more power on top... but not cheap at all.
I had a VERY similar experience with my totally stock L-82:
I started making changes in 1983 on my 78 L-82 4 speed:
1. First the usual stuff-richened up the carb, timing/distributor, removed all emissions, roller tipped rockers, lowered the operating temp from 225-240 to 175-180. Woke the car up a lot. Stock HP-220 NET HP.
2. Early 2000's-true 2.5 inch duals and free flowing mufflers and later shorty headers. Hit the dyno a couple of years ago with a weak #6 cylinder-233 RWHP which is apprx. 310-325 Gross HP.
3. Spring 2014-Totally rebuilt OEM L-82 block using reconditioned L-82 rods, L-82 crank, L-82 aluminum intake-everything else new including AFR 180 heads and roller cam. Expecting once the car gets on the dyno about 325-335 RWHP which would be about 100 more RWHP than the lightly modified L-82 before the rebuild. Should make about 450 GROSS HP and the Torque of many of the crate 383's since the crate motors generally do not use the best optimized parts for HP/Torque from those motors.
Rebuilding the L-82 with the best parts I could find was not cheap but I wanted an L-82 as much as feasible.