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Re: Our 69 427 w/a Holley 4 barrel double pumper with an electric fuel pump
Wow!I took the wife out for dinner last night.Had a great time until we came back to the car.I turned the key,halfway,to allowthe fuel pump to get some gas to to the carb..I think I may have then also depressed the gas pedal.Then when I fully turned the key we heard a popping or backfire sound from under the hood.I opened the hood to see the air cleaner engulfed in flames!!!I quickly ran into the restaurant & we doused the flames with a fire extinguisher.Thankfully, it appears the damage is minimal.The car was towed to my mechanic.He'll look at it later today.
My God,what happened?I don't think I'll ever get my wife in the car again (not to mention my own reservations)!What should I do to prevent this from EVER happening again?All suggestions would be deeply appreciated!!!!!
Jim Pascale
This is a good reason for everyone to carry a fire extinguisher in their car. I have one in my '77. and will go buy one for my ZR-1 before I even drive it home!
But it sounds like your carb may have been flooding.
what kind of air cleaner do you have?
been a long time, but i just give it gas and it sucks the flames into the engine and it goes out.
as you describe it, i would quickly start the engine, which sounds crazy cause you have to pump it while cranking, but i've done this several times and it works. :smash:
to prevent a fire in the future, after the car pops, and stalls:
1. immediately go into DEATH CRANK MODE. This is where you fear a fire, but would not dare open the hood.
2. don't stop cranking until either it starts or the battery dies. the cranking will suck the flames in, but it won't go out until it starts. this has always worked for me within 10-15 seconds.(maybe 20 times over the years)
3. don't be afraid to add gas; some will burn, but some will make it inside. sometimes it takes several pumps.
:eek:
After you figure out the carb problem, (verify proper fuel pressure, needle and seat, float, etc.), you might consider a oil pressure switch for the electric pump. Thus your pump only works after the engine starts, which works well in carbureted cars, since they have sufficeint fuel in the float bowl to start the car. It also prevents run-away fuel spillage in the event of an accident or major fuel line leak.
Hans
P.S. I carry relatively large extinguishers in ALL my vehicles...
Death Crank Mode - good tip.
I was once leaving the Home Depot with my '72 Camaro. The triangular
foam air filter caught fire, and all I could think of was to rip open the bag
of potting soil that I had bought - and started to throw handfuls on top
of the motor. :crazy: :lol: :crazy:
mental note : buy fire extinguisher
:seeya
Matt - That is very interesting! and to me, very counterintuitive. well, maybe not so much counterintuitive, but counterinstinctive! My instinct would be to get the heck out of there!! not sit there and crank the car. I guess the worst thing to do with an electric fuel pump would be to leave the car ASAP while leaving the key in the "on" position!!
Who will complain to you if it doesnt work and they go up in flames! :eek:
Definitely agree with MJ that this is counterinstinctive. Matt is correct in that the gas is sucked intot he engine eliminating fuel for the fire. Opening the hood is dangerous as more air (oxygen) gets to the fire to increase the burn rate. Very lucky in any case. While fire extinguishers are helpful, Matt's technique works better for small carb feed engine fires.
If you have or are getting a fire extinguisher, get one for cars. One for paper only will do you no good.
If you don't have a fuel regulator I would highly recommend one, since you turned the key to the on position it may have built up too much pressure and tapping the pedal allowed a big shot of raw fuel to squirt in which ignited when the ignition was turned on. What is the rated PSI of your pump? The needle & seat on your Holley can only take ~7 PSI so regulate it to 7-8 PSI.
I hope that you don't let this stop you or your wife from enjoying the car - with proper equipment and procedure it will not happen again.
MN
the key here is to start it before a fire is confirmed. i.e. POP :eek: might be on fire :cry start it!!!! don't open the hood, if it is on fire it might be too late if you open the hood and start looking for it.
this happened once on my 72. Later i noticed flame marks on the top INSIDE of the air cleaner box.
on my 61 the electric pump is comtrolled by oil pressure
Death Crank Mode - good tip.
I was once leaving the Home Depot with my '72 Camaro. The triangular
foam air filter caught fire, and all I could think of was to rip open the bag
of potting soil that I had bought - and started to throw handfuls on top
of the motor. :crazy: :lol: :crazy:
mental note : buy fire extinguisher
:seeya
:lol: Must've been fun getting that out of the carb!
Nobody said anything about timing? If the timing is off it will back-fire through the carb. Make sure the timing is correct and don't fill the engine B/4 starting. Crank the engine first then give a little squirt if needed. :cheers:
What VBP said! It was the back fire that started the fire.
I would also mention the safety oil pressure switch but differently. Its supposed to be wired on the crank circuit so the pump turns on with no oil pressure. when the engine starts there is oil pressure and the crank circuit doesn't power it.
I didn't like that since I went to an electric to get rid of heat soak boiling the fuel out of the bowl. I put a switch in thats momentary one way and on the other with off in the center. I can prime my fuel bowl before starting and not have the crank circuit powering the pump. The always on is for engine checks or whatever. The pump whines at first and then growls when the bowl is full. The engine always starts.