I'm prepping my 71 coupe for rear clip bonding and had a few questions/concerns. I intend to bond(Evercoat VPA) the rear deck, R&L rear quarter and rear valance as a unit.

Will positioning this be a problem with so much "wetted" area?
Screws or clamps for securing?
Its fairly cool here, how much time will I have before VPA sets up?
Does car need to be jacked and leveled before bonding or just on the tyres?
Any special prep to the bonded areas or just sanded fine?

Please weight in with any tips or considerations.
Kevin

 

Since no one is responding...... I'll bump this up.
But, I believe the evercoat vpa is really not an adhesive but it is a body filler. I wouldn't use it for an adhesive.

There are many opinions as to what the best adhesive is. I have used; Lord Fuser 320/322 but it is hard to get. Depending on the temperature it sets up in about 30 minutes. I didn't have any problems using it to remount my firewall.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

 

PM me so I can get you my shop number so can call me and we can talk.


With all due respect....WRONG...IT IS an ADHESIVE that will work very well as long as the panel is prepped. The reason why there may be written instructions on the can limiting its usage...is only because there are some people out there that actually try to bond fiberglass ground effect onto STEEL..and it fails. TRUST ME ...VPA is an exceptional ADHESIVE....AND the best part...it is also a very good body filler.

DEPENDING on the temperatures.....using Vette Panel Adhesive can be done...BUT you REALLY have to have you 'STUFF' together. Because you have to get it mixed just right and applied BEFORE it rocks up. In the winter months it would be perfect ( because ti will give you really good working time due to the area you are trying to bond)...versus the summer time. I could do it...but then again I have bonded more clips and panels than I can remember.

If it were me and your car were in my shop...I would use the Evercoat SMC Panel Adhesive ( part number 994). WHY would I advise this material...when I just wrote that I could do it in VPA....Because the SMC Panel Adhesive is exceptional also....and when it is mixed with the hardener and check to see how long ti will take to harden....It will give you more time...thus you will be relaxed instead of running around like you have your head chopped off. "WORK SMARTER...NOT HARDER."

Follow the instruction on the can to the letter. If you need any suggestions...call me. I do not know how cold it is where you are...because I do not know where you are.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB, I probably use the adhesive you mentioned, I think I will need the extra time.

My plan was to use the roof line and door jamb edges as my alignment guide, I haven't done a dry fit yet so I don't know what the fit looks like. Is this a good game plan for the fitment?

I know some guys are against screws for holding but I was thinking about a combination of clamps and some screws for "clamping". On the deck bonding strip I was thinking about weight.

Is there any prep other than sanding to the bonding areas?

Thanks, Kevin

 

Grinding the bonding areas is what I do..but I am not removing a lot of material....all I am going for is a clean, rough hatch when grinding at a slow speed with moderate pressure.

I use screws...but there are trick in using them and WHERE to use them is PARAMOUNT. I also use weight in areas where clamps can not be used....and there are ticks on this also.

Using your roof line and edges is fine...it will all depend once you begin to get it fitted. It will either go easy or you can have several hours of getting it set up so when you go to install it...it will go in easily.

DUB

 

I changed my glue a couple of years ago to the SEM 39747 glue. The work time is exceptional compared to that of the glues you have to mix. Downfall is the applicator required to use this glue is not cheap.

I have never used a rivet or a screw to glue a panel on, I must have some luck because I have always found a way to clamp panels in hard places without them. A ratchet strap with some nicely placed 2x4 is one trick we use on the mid year lower panels and we use the same trick on the upper surround panel where it bonds by the door. It's a shame when we took these pictures we had already released one of the straps.. on the mid year front ends we use two for equal pressure.

Another neat trick we use to make sure our lines are as straight as possible is a laser level... (lower right in the picture below).

 

Willcox,
I AGREE...I also have some wicked set-ups, custom made clamps that allow me to not have to use screws or pop-rivets. But...I am sure that you would also agree...in the hands of an experienced bodyman...I could use a screw ( if I HAD to) and remove it and you could look forever and never find where I used it....and it would never surface as a surface imperfection on where I did use it. Like you...99.9% of the time...I can figure out a way so I do not need one.

Kinda like the amount of time I have to spend on the pinch-welds of a C4 after it was on a frame machine and the pinch-weld clamps were used. The amount of time I spend to make it pass your visual inspection is ridiculous. But that is one area I look at when one comes in. It 'tells me a lot if I can see the clamp marks.

DUB

 

Dub have you tried that SEM 39747 glue? If not you might want to give it a shot. It dries the correct color and that really makes it nice. No mixing, you just squirt and go. It will glue SMC, PM and HL glass as long as it is properly scuffed before gluing. The cure time is very attractive too.. It beats the hell out of the old days using the GM two part epoxy kit and the sprinting to get it on the car before the glue dries...

 

What is PM and HL glass?

 

Press molded, and Hand laid. Sorry..

 

Dub, thanks for correcting me.
I was waiting for someone to respond to the OP but no one did, so I thought I'd jump in.
Steve L
73 coupe since new

 

I use the 2 part cartridge adhesives on the 1984 and new Corvettes due to it is required for structural issues. I use SEM, LORD FUSOR and Pliogrip System from Ashland mostly.

I will get some can check it out. I am just really weird about using the new age 2-part cartridge adhesives on a Corvette where bonding seams are having to be worked. I know putting a one-piece front clip on is another issue entirely.

I agree...pumping out mixed adhesive is a lot easier than hand mixing and applying the other type.

DUB

 

I went to the SEM website and SEM 39747 glue is listed as Black in color, the original bonding adhesive on my 71 is a light Pink color. Am I missing something here? I'm trying to get something that will mix up in this color.

Kevin

 

When it dries it dries black, when you sand it off it has the original gray color. I'll see if I can find you a picture of it on the 65 we finished out in Feb of this year.

 

Original bonding material for `71 did have a tan or pink cast. It was a good quality polyester product that was marginal for bonding the early Gennite and SMC panels. The `71 had a mixture of panels ranging from the old polyester to Gennite and the first SMC panel which was first used on the rear fenders sometime during the year.

The new products like Fusor, etc. are a much better bonding agent, but finding matching colors and textures is challenging. If colors and textures mean a lot to you, you could experiment with one of the tan or gray Fusor products and add tint and some finely chopped fiberglass filler. You should be able to get pretty close.

 

I'm going to try the SEM 39747 due to the longer "holdover" time. I have been rushed before and it just adds to the stress. Does anyone care to take a guess at how many tubes of the product it will take to bond the rear clip?

I will be bonding the rear deck, L&R rear quarter and rear valance as one unit.

Kevin

 

The SEM will not be the correct color you know.

The Fusor products have long work times too depending on which one you use.

I dont think it would take more than two tubes, but that would depend on how sloppy you are. The factory was rather sloppy. Get some extras and take them back if you dont need them.

Remember, all of these epoxys in the tubes are somewhat loose, and epoxys tend to glaze over and sag after application. It is difficult to get the original look without adding some fillers for texture.