been long time since I removed a manual trans. BB car and I need to replace a leaking freeze plug on back of block above starter. any goods tips, remember rear trans brace part of frame and not removable. thanks

 

remember to keep the rear wheels off the ground so that the driveshaft can be rotated to access the U-joint bolts.

 

Raise the car enough to get under it. Put a jack under the oil pan with a block to avoid denting the pan. Remove the driveshaft. Remove the bolts from the transmission mount, lift engine enough to remove the other bolts from the mount, remove that and the bracket that supports the mount. The WORST part of this is, now to remove the shifter. I am certain that you know those steps. Remove the speedometer cable, reverse light mechanism along with the cable going to the steering wheel lock. Now you should be looking at the naked transmission supported only by the four bolts. remove the bottom two bolts from the trans to the bellhousing. Support the rear of the transmission and remove the top two bolts. Remove the block at the back of the trans and allow the transmission to rest on the crossmember. Slowly lower the rear of the engine by relaxing the jack under the pan using care to not go too far. The only way the trans will come out is to rotate the trans with the side cover facing up. once that is done, slide the trans as far back as possible to allow the pilot shaft to just barely clear the bellhousing. The trans should be out now. It takes a little wiggling around and be sure that you remove the shifter arms from the trans when you remove the shifter. This was all from memory of an old guy but, I think that should cover everything.

 

Looks like how I did it. Great writeup! Only thing I would add is a couple of things about putting it back in:
1. if you use the factory pilot bushing, make sure you do not mushroom the end, tapping it back it. Otherwise the tip on the trans will not fit in the hole, ha, how did I learn this? yep, the hard way.
2. I made some guide bolts to use as rods to guide the transmission back in. I want to say I used maybe 6" long, 3/8" bolts (about the right size, may be different) with the heads cut off. So you just screw in the threaded end in the bell housing and use your newly made guide rods to help mate up the transmission.
3. Also my great helper, wife, had to press in the clutch a number of times to get the 4sp to make that last inch or so of connect. This last step was the biggest pain for me.

Hope this helps.

 

Brings back memories when I did this in 1976. I'll just add this, since you're in there replace the rear main seal and the throw out bearing.

 

You can just remove the shifter linkage arms from the trans without removing the actual shifter itself. Depending on the car, they are either bolts or c clips.

 

tips? yea, eat your Wheaties

 

When you replace the rear main seal, be aware that there is 2 sizes depending on how many splines your output shaft has. Not all corvette vendors make the distinction.

I got caught on this and was PO since it set me back a few days to get the right seal.

steve L
73 coupe since new

 

Its a short 2 1/2 hr ride over to Abilene i can wrestle the trans around easier then you can. 2 old farts can make almost one good 20 yr old or at least maybe no what there doing.

 

Other suggested supplies: a new pilot bushing, more beer.

 

On the plus side; once the transmission is out the way replacing the freeze plugs is a breeze. Replace them all on the rear of the block.
I had one leak (rot) and when I went to inspect the others found they were just about to let go.

 

I am planning on doing that, only want to be in there once......thanks. going to fire it up first
(no h20) to make sure my new fuel pump works right and fix a tank sender weep.

 

Same here and she's available 24/7. Awesome woman!

 

Seems to me like you guys are missing one important step. On my 73 I have to drop the exhaust.