Ok guys I guess it is never ending....but now my drivers side door lock works half the time on my 1979 L82... ....I have 2 questions...
1) Do I need to remove my door panels to investigate this issue?

2) Is it expensive to replace the switches if that is what is wrong?

 

the best access is with the door panels off, lube all the linkage while your in there
switches aren't expensive, check any corvette supplier willcox is very good.

 

I`ve been fighting with this on our 71! I was ready to buy new mechanisms.... turns out it was a simple matter of getting the rods adjusted correctly.... they were binding up. A couple turns on one end took care of it, so I`d start there. Check all the clips at each end also.
If you think it`s in the switches, check the grounding first.

 

Thanks will do

 

A good friend bought two new door lock solenoids for his '82 Corvette as neither door lock would function reliably. We removed the door panels to get to the locks and changed them both out with the new solenoids. Son-of-a-gun, door locks still would not function reliably. At this point we removed the door latch mechanisms and cleaned them thoroughly. Every last bit of 30 year old grease was removed and the latches moved freely. Re-lubed them with white lithium grease and reinstalled them. Amazingly, the locks functioned perfectly. On a hunch we reinstalled the original solenoids and they also worked flawlessly.

Packaged up the new solenoids and returned them...

Good luck... GUSTO

 

I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.

I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.

Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.

You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.

There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.

My car is a 79.

 

Thanks guys ...I can hear and feel the latch trying to lock and unlock....I am going to try to clean the latches and clean them....just how much is involved in removing them and cleaning....?

 

Like most things, the first one will seem a bit involved but the second door will take a tenth of the time.

It is super rewarding when the door adjustments are done and anyone that gets in and out of the car can operate the door and locks with ease.

I recently saw a 10 part series on YouTube titled C3 Corvette Door Assembly. It sure would have been nice to see exactly how the different clips that hold the rods worked before I did my first C3 door! The videos are by timjohnclarke.

 

Make no mistake about it. IF you go and replace your door lock actuators...you HAVE TO MAKE SURE that they can move VERY FREE without binding AT ALL. The reason is...when you go and use your door key...you are actually moving this actuator. And if it is binding to tight...you can damage your door by spinning your lock cylinder in the door itself. which I have repaired many of those...and TRUST ME...you DO NOT WANT TO GO THERE!!!!

Not only that...but the metal pawl that goes on the backside of your door lock cylinder begins it wear into the shaft and thus you can loose its sweep function due to excessive wear due to increased effort to turn the key and unlock the door.

From the factory the door lock actuators were riveted in place...and to remove them....you have to knock out the center pin ( which takes a really good hit with a punch and hammer) then drill it out with a 1/4" drill bit. I then weld in 1/4-20 nuts and bolt it back in place myself.

In 90% of the time...the special water diverter shields that go above the door latch mechanism are missing....thus water gets onto your latch mechanism and it gets dry.

Removing the latch mechanism..washing it out with a good solvent CAREFULLY and then re-applying a good grease and make sure everything works freely.

I use the DORMAN door lock actuators myself. The plunger moves very easily and when I am checking the function with the door key...I am NOT feeling like I am going to even come close to breaking the key off in the cylinder. With minor modifications to the factory mounting brackets off of the original actuators...I use them instead of the ones provided by DORMAN....AND YES....it takes a little bit of time...and is NOT a 'plug and play' scenario for me....mainly because I do not like the brackets that DORMAN uses to attach the their actuators. I am just being picky and like thing to be a specific way....that's all.

DUB

 

You will find the copper switches are badly corroded at the connector pigtails. Order two new pigtails, one for each door. Ire brush the 5 male pins that enter the pigtails - they are only copper. And, plan to replace the 35 year old actuators as well. If one door isn't working it is wired so the other one won't work, either. Speaking from recent experience and complements prior posts.
And, as wisely noted earlier, lube all the internal door linkages, window channels/gears & roller bearings, -and properly position the foam linkage dampeners to avoid rattles when the door is closed - all while the patient is open.
Dave