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Attached is a picture of the rebuilt pump I just received and the old one. The old one has a threaded stud in the top right of the back and the new one just has that hole plugged. The new one also came with the two O-rings and the hardware that are below it in the pic. Am I supposed to swap that bolt over? Where do the O-rings go?
If I remember correctly, that is what I did. Remove the stud in the ten oclock position from the old pump and screw it into the new pump. Remove the plug of course. One or both of the O rings may be for that stud. Or the smaller one could be for the high pressure hose connection at the seven oclock position. Bolt and nut are probably just for mounting.
The LONG BOLT, WASHER and NUT is the way you re-install the pulley. IF you do not have a specific tool like what IO have to do it which is more heavy duty. This should be outlined in the INSTRUCTIONS.
YES...change over the stud/bolt.
My concern..because you photo's almost show it...is MAKING ABSOLUTELY SURE that the INSIDE of where your high pressure hose fitting goes in the back of the pump look EXACTLY the same. NOT kinda close. EXACTLY the same. The reason is....GM started using a different type of fitting on the end of the pressure hose that utilizes a small rubber 'o' ring on the end of the fitting...which in turn changed the way the fitting in the back of the pump will look INTERNALLY. They are specific...so if they are different....you can take the one out of your pump and put it into the rebuilt pump. Just be aware that this fitting is under some moderate spring tension...so make sure that you are careful when removing them.
You did not specify what year you have. I believe...and may be wrong...but I think the hose fitting design changed in 1980 and went to 1982.
Don't you hate when people don't say what year there car is, its an 80. Not much in the way of instructions with the pump. The inside of the connectors do look exactly the same. The problem I am now having is that the plug I need to remove to swap in the stud is so tight I cant get it to budge, I am wondering if they put some kind of threadlock on it.
Don't you hate when people don't say what year there car is, its an 80. Not much in the way of instructions with the pump. The inside of the connectors do look exactly the same. The problem I am now having is that the plug I need to remove to swap in the stud is so tight I cant get it to budge, I am wondering if they put some kind of threadlock on it.
YES...I wish people would understand that just because it is a C3...Stating the year is really important. Using this C1-C7 method of identifying an era of Corvette .....which I still think is a STUPID way of identifying an era of Corvette...because there is a MILE of difference in a 1968 (C3) and a 1982 (C3). Can not even compare the two.
1968 to 1972 should be in its own league...the 1973 and 1974...another...then 1975 to 1977...and that is debatable...then 1978-1979 another...then the 1980, 81 and 82's....each is in its own world.
Your pressure line will have a small 'o' ring on the end of it...or it should. So the pressure fitting in the back of these pumps should not need to be swapped.
Doubtful...no need for using a threadlocker on a plug...which should be plastic ...that is in the hole where the stud bolt goes.. Use a pick tool. I have trouble some times getting them out. They get really stuck.
I have encounter the stud bolts being really tight....but never had one with a threadlocker on it.
Howd things go, any leaks? I just put mine in and it leaks at that stud. My stud did not have the hex flange for install and pressure on o-ring. Had the same o-rings and did not use them as my pressure fitting was a flare fitting. As I remember the plugs were rather tight and tore getting them out. Hope things went well with yours.
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